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9N No Spark

A

A2Z143

New User
Need your help. I?ve replaced points, condenser, plugs, cap
and rotor and resistor. My uncle had the condenser wired
straight to the points as pictured in attachment. The tractor
was working great until the key was left on. I am getting power
to the coil. Any suggestions appreciated
 
Leaving the key on can burn the points up if they are closed. If you have(and did) take the cap off the spring might need a little pull to stretch out a little,sometimes it welds itself and when you take it apart it breaks foo a small part. Then it is too short and needs a little help. Try that,and good luck,it is always something simple, you just have all of the fun finding out what it is. :)
 
On the front mount distributor system of the Ford N series leaving the key one common burns up the points and while is happening the coil is also fried so good chance you need to replace the coil
 
Welcome A2Z143!

Assuming this is a front mount distributor...

You did remove the distributor to work on it?

That's the easiest way, it will only go back one way, so no chance to get it so far out of time it won't start. I like to wire it up to the battery so I can bench test it before reinstalling.

With either a front distributor, or a side distributor, the following will still apply.

You can test the coil with an ohm meter. Checking across the primary connections, you should get about 1.5 ohms for a 6v, 3 ohms for a 12v. If it checks open, or the case is split, the coil is bad.

Another method to test the coil, with the ignition on, power to the coil, ground the other primary terminal. It should draw a spark, and the coil will fire when the ground is removed. If no spark, no fire, the coil is bad.

To test the points, put a test light or volt meter on the point side of the coil to ground. With power on the coil, points open, should get near battery volts/test light on. Points closed, get zero volts/test light off.
 
Even if you have power TO the coil, the coil LV Primary itself may be burned open and/or the points are badly burned from leaving the key on. Start with the points as they are cheaper then check the coil.

John T
 
I?ve replaced all parts after the key was found left on. The issue I have is that the copper strap is missing between the points and the concave screw for the condenser. Looks like my uncle had the condenser wired straight to the points. Anyone ever see this kind of connection? Should I order the breaker plate and replace?
 
The condenser is hooked to the same wire as the wire for power to the points. That missing copper strip may well be the problem if you have replaced the coil. Or it may have burned out the ignition switch since they are also a bit on the weak side
 
(quoted from post at 06:10:27 11/24/19) Welcome A2Z143!

Assuming this is a front mount distributor...

You did remove the distributor to work on it?

That's the easiest way, it will only go back one way, so no chance to get it so far out of time it won't start. I like to wire it up to the battery so I can bench test it before reinstalling.

With either a front distributor, or a side distributor, the following will still apply.

You can test the coil with an ohm meter. Checking across the primary connections, you should get about 1.5 ohms for a 6v, 3 ohms for a 12v. If it checks open, or the case is split, the coil is bad.

Another method to test the coil, with the ignition on, power to the coil, ground the other primary terminal. It should draw a spark, and the coil will fire when the ground is removed. If no spark, no fire, the coil is bad.

To test the points, put a test light or volt meter on the point side of the coil to ground. With power on the coil, points open, should get near battery volts/test light on. Points closed, get zero volts/test light off.
Click to expand...

"You can test the coil with an ohm meter. Checking across the primary connections, you should get about 1.5 ohms for a 6v, 3 ohms for a 12v. If it checks open, or the case is split, the coil is bad."

If it checks good it can also be bad... : ( An OHM check can find a bad one but it can not tell if its a good one : (....
 
The condenser is wired in parallel with/across the points, so if its on the same terminal as the wire from the coil to the points all can still function. I cant comment sitting here about that "copper strap". If a test lamp was placed on the coils output which wires to the points it should flash ON when points are open but full OFF when closed. Its not gonna fire until that happens. The points close to conduct coil current to ground and then when they open the coil fires.

John T
 
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