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Gleaner k2 plugged

C

Crookedcreekjerseys

Member
Anybody ever plugged up a k2 or an f2 with soybeans bad enough that even opening up the trap door on the feeder house and running the thresher doesn?t clean it out. I?m thinking I?m going to have to open the cylinder clearance all the way to clean it out.
 
Well yea, very typical on most any older combine with a standard cylinder to have to loosen concaves to free a slug. Likely the op manual also tells you that, in the trouble shooting section.----Loren
 
I have unplugged far more combines in my career as a farm equipment mechanic than I have as a combine operator. I could tell you some stories of unplugging combines that involved the use of a SawsAll, but hopefully you are not at this stage. Get your concave open as far as possible is the first thing to do. Not sure on a Gleaner about being able to bar the cylinder backwards but a 6 foot or more bar may be incorporated into the procedure
 
What is the moisture level on your beans???? Around here they have been tough to thresh and hard to get down to 12-13% Rain and snow have made the stalks like rope.-----------------Loren
 
BTDT Sometimes you can put a socket and a long cheater bar on the cyl hex under the cab door and back it off. I did this alot with my A2 not as easy with the F2. Back off the cyl clearance and back it up by pulling on the chopper belt. It's more fun when the cyl beater wraps up.
 
Take two more bolts out and swing the rear half of the door open. 15/16 wrench. I bought a battery operated Makita sawzall for cutting the plug out. Didn"t have to use it yet...and I"m done farming! That must be the trick. But when I was close to home I drove the combine home and used the Milwaukee corded saw.
 
Plugged the F3 last week. Chain driving the rattle chain broke and the bean straw backed up til it plugged. Had to do like JMS said. Took out the 2 5/8 bolts and dropped the rear door down. It had been cold and then warmed up. The bean stalks were like leather shoe strings.
 
my problems always began at the feeder beater. the old time custom guys told me the trick of hanging up the feeder beater deflector and installing a different sprocket to speed up the feeder beater.
 
On the old E I used to just push the bar for latching the door into the space between the cylinder bars and push it backwards with my foot pull out some and repeat till it would turn then close it up and be more careful. If you have a bunch develpoing at the front of the beater in the front slow down or unplug it again.
 
My relatives plugged their rotors gleaner so bad one year they took it to the dealer to clean out.

I scratched my head a bit on that one, but.....

When I was a youngster and didn?t know better, dad had me running my F Gleamer with a worn out sheave on the cylinder drive, so it didn?t engage the drive belt square. So it slipped often. And then dad had grassy beans at that time.....

I would have to unplug the gleaner F a couple times a round some days. Round after round.

Ah, the joys of growing up a farm kid to a penny pinching German............

I think of it every time my L3 growls a bean slug through it now. Not fond memories.....

I did plug the L3 with corn. Corn stalk ripped off the electric clutch wires, the feeder kept feeding the rest of the machine didn?t, and when I got things sorted out the cyclinder was filled full.

Paul
 
been there done that and yea first thing to do is back the clearance clear open then you can start having fun, last one I did I just about cut my thumb and first finger off cut them both clear to the bone right thru leather gloves,WATCH THE EDGES WHEN YOU OPEN THE TRAP DOOR THEY WILL BE RAZORS unit I had was last year of the JD 6620 titan two series mine was sidehill model, today I have it all rented out and lots in crp program. now I make money every year . unplugging is never fun I never plugged one after that time,never pays to get in hurry in tough conditions and that's what I did it killed the whole combine
 
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