Zinc in Oil

A lot of talk about this.

My belief is that using a break in oil is critical, after that it does not matter unless you have very stiff valve springs

There are tons of information out, I am attaching a video that explains my views.

Let the discussions roll.
Zinc

I like to see 1000-1200 ppm oz ZDDP for my engines.

Regular automotive oil would be in the 800 range.

David,
Are you sure zinc won't screw up O2 sensors?

Many years ago I would rebuild my car engines every 80-100K because they were worn out. Usually bored to .030.

The guy at machine shop recommended not to use anything special for break in oil. His theory is that slick additives won't allow rings to seat properly.

I've bought 3 new GM vehicles. Not sure if there was anything special about the oil. First oil change was at the regular interval.

I've read Kubota's manual. First oil change at 400 hrs. Perhaps I need to read manual a second time or ask dealer.

geo.

That's the way it was explained to me years ago!!

That is a good point, this is in my equipment, only the 44 EFI has an O2 sensor.

I run Delvac 1300, which is "supposed" to have between 1000 and 1100.

When Goss's garage comes on my TV I change the channel. Lots of today's engines come with roller rocker arms and roller bearing pivots. No extreme pressure sliding parts that the ZDDP additive protects. The old flat tappets and sliding rocker arms on these 40 to 90 year old tractor engines have lots and lots of sliding friction.
Yes many race engines have high lift camshafts and very strong valve springs to prevent valve float at high rpm, and the racing oils have a strong dose of ZDDP. What they don't have is much of a detergent. Lot of budget drag racers use Shell Rotella in their race engines. It's rated for both spark and compression ignition engines. Last time I called the Shell Oil Answerman ROTELLA had either 1200 parts per million or 1400 parts per million. Probably shouldn't use it on an engine with catalytic converters but might not hurt anything if it doesn't burn oil.
The ZDDP additive is very expensive every place I've ever seen it, let Shell put the right amount in the jug. Use the money you save to do used oil analysis, see what wear Metals are in your old oil. See if gasoline, diesel fuel or coolant is getting into your crankcase. I've done a FABCO oil analysis on my 7.3L PowerStroke engine every 10,000 to 12,000 miles since it had 100,000 miles and did the last one at 302,000 miles. I included the tests with the truck when I gave it to SON. Think I'll give him a test kit for Christmas. FABCO is the local CAT construction dealer. Tests taken after I towed heavy with my truck showed high soot in the oil from the heavier load on the engine.

Wow, 400 hours seems like a long time to run the original oil! Maybe the transmission oil?

I'm a believer in using racing oil or zinc additive with a flat tappet cam on the first start up and break in. Especially on a performance engine with strong valve springs and high lift.

But after that it's not real practical to continue that practice. Especially if it has a catalytic converter.

I do think the diesel oil, (whether it has zinc or not) is a closer match to the older engines with flat tappet cams than spark ignition oil that is formulated for roller cams, valve timing devices, and sophisticated emissions controls.
New Cam Break In

Well, if you are going 400 hours, that would be like 24,000 miles in a car at 60 miles per hour. And in more dust too.

Why bother? At 800 hours just pull it out and rebuild it.

I have built/rebuilt 100s of diesel engines and most were filled with 15w40 valvoline. The engines off the assembly line are all tested on the same oil. Now to the opposite side I rebuilt a 466 deere that had tons of blow by om shell 15w40. Got the break in oil from deere and problem went away.

I'll read owner's manual again.
Perhaps it was changed HST filter at 200hrs and HST filter and oil at 400.
Saw on YouTube where first engine oil change was 50 hrs. Got a long time before I get to 50 hrs

I knew better than try and argue with you but I think you will remember me telling you that the 400 hr figure you were referring to was wrong on the engine oil.

Re-read the manual. I think you will find 1st oil change at 50 hrs.

My brain is hitting on all cylinders any more.
Got a real bad case of CRS.

There's times I can spell an easy word. Type the right letters wrong order.

About a year ago I may had a mini stroke. Couldn't organize a complete sentence. Just sat down and waited for it to pass. Not a dang thing a Dr can do. Take an aspirin.

My Bota

Engine oil + filter and HST + filter @ 50hr.

Next service 200 hr oil and filter
HST fluid, filter replacement not required.

400 hr Engine oil + filter and HST + filter

I missed the fuel filter service at 150 hr I just noticed that...

HST fluid at 50 hr looked NEW... Save it for hydraulic oil are power steering fluid...

After the use of unleaded gasoline and fuel injection . Engine life was extended by at least 3 times . .

About 15 years ago we had a new Kubota at work and I did the service work on it. I'm thinking that first service was at about 50 hrs. and included filters and hydro oil.