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Will this work?

M

Mnethercutt

Member
Still chasing carb problems on my John Deere 1010. Was browsing ebay when I discovered the aluminum carbs for Ford tractors (8N's, Jubilees) that are selling for around 50 dollars, and noticed they look very similar to my TSX-809. Bottom line would that work? I know the linkage is a little different, but I measured the dimensions they list on ebay and the dimensions of my carb and it's almost dead on. Maybe 1 or 2 millimeters off but no more than that. At this point its been a year since the tractor has run right and I'd be ok with just slapping that aluminum carb on if it would be simpler than tearing down a carb i've been thru 8 times. So, would it work, or am I just grasping at air here?

Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EAE9510C-M...rentrq:56bd296216e0a4b7b711bda7fffb291a|iid:1
 
The John Deere has more displacement and runs faster = more RPM.
The Jubilee is a lot closer at 135 cid to the John Deere's 145.
 
As for function, yes, it will be close enough to run.

But, consider that you will be making linkage that is compatible with the governor,
so it will have to be spot on.

Will it fix the problem? If the old carb has something wrong with it, yes.

The aftermarket carbs are obviously aluminum. They work well when new, and will continue
work as long as they are operated with clean water free gas, and are not subject to abuse.
The one area that will eventually have some wear is the throttle shaft through the housing,
but that will take some time.
 

What exactly is going on with your engine that's making you condemn the carburetor?

Those MS carbs are incredibly simple, and there's not many things that typically go on that require carb replacement.

ONE thing might be if major parts have been swapped between different (not exactly matching) carbs sometime in the past.

It would be GREAT if you could find someone nearby that is used to (successfully) working on tractor carbs to take a look at it.

Also, I'm sure there's some of us here on the "Board" willing to take a look at it for you, I, for one certainly would.

It doesn't cost a huge amount to mail a carb.
 

Bob its flooding all the time or not letting fuel through. Can't seem to make up its mind. The top half and bottom half are (I think) from two different carbs. The bottom half of the original had a crack so I swapped it out.

I've got a flat rate box ready to go if you want to give it a look over. How much would you charge?
 
Sound like you have afloat or needle problem or both. Float needle seat has to be good and tight with the correct gasket under it. Also you should be able to hear the float move if you flip up side down then right side.
 
Those aluminum carbs are crap. I bought one from eBay and
half the screws snapped off when I took it apart to make sure
everything was in order.
 
The 1010 is a 115 Cu inch engine and the 2010 is a 145 cu inch engine. Basically same engine but with a different deck plate and pistons. The 165 engine is same but with a larger deck plate. Any deck plate can be put in the 1010 tractor. The 115 version was used on the 40 combine with the 145 on earlier (round back) combines and the 165 used on first series SQ back 45 combines. But they were a fixed speed govener, tractor is variable speed.
 
Update

Got the 40 dollar carb, but the post just barely don't line up with my manifold, so I guess back to the original carb.

Can anyone provide some insight on how to properly "drill out" the lower half and the passages with the welders tips or whatever you use? Also are there any other jets besides the main jet in the lower half?

Also, look at the attached pictures. This is what it looked like when I opened it up after it sitting dry for about 3 weeks. When I put it together it was clean. What in the world is causing that/how do I stop it?

Did the blow test and the tongue vacuum test on the top half and its holding pressure so hopeful that the top half is fine.
mvphoto45748.jpg


mvphoto45749.jpg


mvphoto45750.jpg
 
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