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Hooked a younger , Bigger horse on my plow.

A

Adirondack case guy

Well-known Member



I have really enjoyed running my 50 yro. Case 931 on the plow, but it was working hard pulling it in the 4-5mph range. 5x18 and I was getting some tire damage. I have no stake in the farm, but have been providing my tractor and time to help out at the farm since one of my uncles passed away last Aug.
Yesterday I hooked the farm's MX110 MFD on the plow. It took a couple hours to get plow and tractor into sync, but all is working great now. The MX is no spring chicken. When I shut it off tonight the digital clock said it has 9581 hrs on it. With the extra power and 4WD I am now in the 5 plus mph range.I finished off a 17A field and a 29A field yesterday afternoon and today. I moved to 2 other fields on side hills and struck out new lands on both but there was water running out of the bottom of the furrows. I will leave those fields and move down to the other farm land tomorrow, that hopefully will be drier.









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Gee;Did you notice the paneramic view out the windshield and no muffler to look around??

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The next pic is of the limestone bedrock lying only inches under the topsoil in lots of fields around here. The bottom of the furrow looks like a rough sidewalk after the plow bottoms lift the soil off of it.

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Thr next pic is of the long shadows from the pine trees at the south end of the field.

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This last bunch of pics are of the next 2 fields that I hoped to plow, but the were too wet.

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Loren
 
Loren your soil plows so nice. I wish I could run that rig in your soil for awhile. When I had the 1070 I did well if I got it up to 4 MPH with a 5x16 Case hydraulic reset plow in our black slabby soil. One fall I plowed 33 hours straight with that rig trying to beat the frost. That was my record, never to be attempted again.
 
Well Jon; My furrows start out nice and straight, but they get a little crooked when the plow rides out sideways when it contacts the ledges and today when striking the new lands the tractor was walking sideways in the wet spots. The hydraulic sidehill hitch the way it is mounted, allows me to somewhat steer the plow independent of the tractor, but you have to be on top of your game to keep the furrows straight. If the plow rides up and skips to the left on a ledge all you can do is drive the tractor strait, and average the curve out on the next bout.-------------------Loren
 
Because conventional tillage is a proven technology and this farm has grown some of
the best crops in the area for a century.-------------------Loren
 
Thought the same thing. And his answer was typical of those who just can't give up tillage. If I had soil that sat less than a foot deep on top of solid
rock, I'd be no tilling everything to keep that valuable dirt where it should be. Just my two cents.
 
Can you give more details of the type of tire damage you were seeing? I understand wanting to keep the tractor you put a lot of effort towards in near show quality condition. Just looking for a bit more details. I have heard some Goodyear tires were prone to sidewall cracking. Thanks for the nice pictures!
 
I prefer plowed soil.if soil is washing your not setting plow correctly,his plow is set correct.
This scratch finish on soil where we are,i see more topsoil washed into ditches than plowing ever did and weeds are far worse too. Lot of our soil gets so hard it washes off top and wont grow crops well till you break it up
 
Nice job, thanks for the pics! Enjoy them.

I?ve been chisel plowing the past 5 years, kind of missed the molboard but it was so slow.

Just got a new to me tractor and found a plow at an auction cheap so might go back to some molboarding. It?s so wet here, don?t know if I get anything done tho. Need to get the crop off first.

Paul
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Looks like you got the plow set up perfect on the MX. Your plowing looks as good as you were doing with the 931. I have a piece here with shale bedrock that I have run the plow deep enough to see shale in the bottom of the furrow . The old 931 was doing good to pull that plow and do the nice job of plowing your previous pictures showed. Thank you for the pictures, I always enjoy them.
 
No-til has been around for nearly 50 years. Why is it that the ones that were no-tilling back in the early 2000?s aren?t now?
Just my 2 cents
 
Where are you located? The picture of foilage looks like Southern tier of WNY along I-86. But don't think there is any shale there.

Bill
 
That is a new land. thrown to centerfrom both sides. I will plow that land a while and then plow backlands at the edges of the field and meet the center land. Last year I made 2 lands thrown together a third in from the edges. of the field and then plowed off the center land. The strip of plowed ground you see is where the deadfurrow between lands was last year. There is a well established system to plowing fields over the years. If it isn't followed you end up with ditches or humps at edges of fields and depressions/ditches in the middle of the field.----------------Loren
 
I se no till every year that they would be better off to just keep planter in shed and forget about wasting the seed as the crop will if harvestable at all will not pay seed bill. First no till user in area went back to moldboarding before health had to stop him from farming. Only place for no till would be soybeans double tilled after winter wheat or wheat after bean harvest. Yet it is being done with weed planting you cannot see the crop for weeds.
 
(quoted from post at 07:03:58 10/24/19) I se no till every year that they would be better off to just keep planter in shed and forget about wasting the seed as the crop will if harvestable at all will not pay seed bill. First no till user in area went back to moldboarding before health had to stop him from farming. Only place for no till would be soybeans double tilled after winter wheat or wheat after bean harvest. Yet it is being done with weed planting you cannot see the crop for weeds.
Click to expand...

Leroy, I think that you may be getting no-till mixed up with conservation tillage. No till is not used very much while conservation tillage is used on probably 80% of crop ground now. Conservation tillage consists of running over the ground after harvest with various types of cultivators that push the crop residue partly into the ground where it helps to hold the soil in place. Prior to planting a lot of the ground is chisel plowed to break it up more deeply. This is usually done every 2-5 years. Chiseling is followed with a pass with a field cultivator to smooth and soften the ground just prior to planting. If you watch videos of planting you will see the crop residue that they are planting in using a regular planter as opposed to a no till slit type seeder planting into sod.
 
My grandfather had a field with red shale. Shale was soft enough on top he could plow some up and use it on the driveway.
 
The shale around here is hard and greyish/black. Occasionally you can pull up some with the plow but it will be a slab and it usually won?t roll out good so makes for a pain to pick. When I was younger I worked for a local excavation contractor and we put in a lot of driveways with a shale base dug out and loaded with an excavator .
 
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