Non running engines

I recently acquired am M Farmall with That hadn't run in 5+ years. Engine is loose using the fan belt. What's the group recommend to best/safest way to prep the engine before attempting to fire up the engine?

What I've done so far is to clean the plugs. They were heavily sooted. I looked at the points and they are bad so they'll need replacing. Plus emptied about one+ quart of water from the oil pan. Tractor was
stored in a shed until a few months ago and I think that is why there was water in the pan. Water looked clean. I didn't notice the oil being milky when I opened the petcock.

You're input would be much appreciated.

Remove the spark plugs and squirt some oil into the cylinders. Let it set for a day or so and then turn it over using the fan or the hand crank.

On the one I did last year I used the method recommended by Old. I put ATF in all the cylinders and also poured some down the exhaust stack. Left it for a couple weeks, then drained the oil pan. Also then pulled the plugs and turned it over with the starter in case there was any left in the cylinders.
Seemed to work well. The tractor runs good and doesn't smoke.

Well, unless the engine has been started or at least turned over some amount, the oil won't be milky. The water and the oil will layer out. Spin it over for a while and it'll change to milky. You might get it started with the existing points before moving ahead too quickly, just clean them up as good as you can and set the gap.

It's good that you got the water out before cranking on it or starting it. Once it's emulsified in the oil it's impossible to drain it all out, has to boil out with engine temperature. Might want to check all the oil drains for water, good chance the gear cases will also have water in them. A lot easier to get it out now than later.

Like said, put oil in the cylinders for a day or two, spin it out before trying to start it.

If there is no compression on some cylinders, it probably has stuck valves. If so, take the valve cover off, get some oil down around the guides. Gently tap down on the valve, see if it will break loose. If that doesn't work try prying between the spring coils, get it moving, work it a few times, usually they will free up.

Be sure you have spark at the plug ends of the wires.

Be sure you have good clean fuel in the carb. There is a drain plug in the carb, with the fuel valve open, remove the plug, catch the flow in a clean glass. It should have a steady stream, not slow to a drip or stop. If no flow the float could be stuck or no fuel getting to the carb.

Look at what comes through. If water on the bottom of the glass, or cloudy, the tank is water contaminated and will need to be cleaned out. If dirty or rust chunks, best remove the tank and thoroughly clean it with E85 gas. If severely rusted, or starts leaking, it will eventually have to be replaced or repaired.

Fill the radiator with water, look for leaks before putting anti freeze in. Save money, and better to have water on the ground or in the engine than antifreeze.

Once fuel, spark, and compression is there, give it a try! If it will start immediately check the oil pressure. Sometimes the oil pump will loose prime when they sit. If so prime it bu pumping oil in through the oil pressure fitting.

Once running, put it through the motions, drive it around, look for problems, leaks, electrical issues, clutch and drive train, hydraulics.

Best find everything you can so if it has to come apart, you only go in once!

I agree with rusty, get some oil in the cylinders, before you turn it over, otherwise you are running the pistons up and down in a dry bore, not good.

If it where me I'd fill the cylinders with ATF so as to free up stuck rings and clean the cylinder. I'd also pour as much ATF down the exhaust as I could to help free up any sticking exhaust valves. I'd also change the oil since you found water in the oil

Check the air cleaner. It probably has plenty of water in it too.

That water didn't get there from setting in a shed.

Adding oil won't hurt anything as long as you leave plugs out. Then crank it to blow oil out the plus. Too much oil in cylinder could cause a problem if you don't get it out.

Clean the fuel tank and fuel line. Remove the carb, take the top off the carb so you can see how clean or dirty it is. Being in central Minnesota you might have a fair amount of condensation that made its way into the carb.

Thanks to all fortaking the time to reply.

I got a little done off the list of things mentioned from all of you today.

1. Took the valve cover off: Valves looked clean and all were free.
2. Checked the air cleaner: The cup was 1/4 full of water. I'm going to put in 10-30 oil in the cup.
3. Removed spark plugs again and this time water came out of one cylinder: I put an air nozzle in spark plug hole and boy did I get a
shower... So I used the air nozzle in all cylinders. Took a couple of more showers
Then used a wet dry vac to suck out what water was in the exhaust manifold.

Now I doubt very much that I got out all of the water in the cylinders. Is the only way to get all the water out is to remove the head? Or
is there a short cut? I believe I need to get this done soon to avoid something becoming stuck.


Dave

I never put so much in so it would blow out, that would just make a mess! I have seen 1 tablespoon recommended.

If you are inquiring about my shower. It wasn't oil, it was water that remained in the engine from recent rains. That my guess. I forgot to mention that I opened the oil pan plug again and got some more water out.

(quoted from post at 12:12:23 10/21/19) That water didn't get there from setting in a shed.

Click to expand...

Gene bender, How can a shed keep humid air away from a tractor? Have you never seen condensation on a cold surface? Have you never seen dew on grass?

Consider squirting oil on the rocker assembly. It can take a few seconds for oil to reach the further end. Which can result in galling if the rockers don't have bronze bushings.