JD Crab overhaul

I have a couple of JD carbs I need to get overhauled as they are beyond my expertise and need nozzles drilled out etc. I had a JD M carb redone by Denny's over 15 years ago. That tractor sat in my shop close to 10 years stored and finally about a month ago I pulled it out and it fired right and up ran great. Contacted Denny's repeatedly to see about sending these to them and finally got an answer "NOT Interested" which I thought was rather rude and as I understand it they have gotten very hard to deal with and quality has went down. I had a carb overhauled by another prominent advertiser that needed the nozzle threads repaired and spent over $300 for my 330 and it ran great about a month but now floods terribly. I have taken it apart and checked float height and the float for leaks as well as put in a new needle and seat just to try to eliminate the flooding and no luck. I suspect that when they restored the nozzle threads something is not right there but I canty find it. Another provider has quoted me between $400 and $500 per carb so before I drop a fortune Id like some feedback on who the readers out there recommend.
 
Why not just purchase a new or rebuilt crab

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/1516CARB_Carburetor-Rebuilt_2294.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_5rtBRDxARIsAJfxvYCsWfLAj7Wxww5EQoajk1hPZB2XnZJ9568XPm5ONe4_tCkZ818pwiIaAutKEALw_wcB

https://www.link_disallowed/JDS3574-Carburetor-New-not-Rebuilt
 
Mo teck engineering tipton ind Matt He has rebuilt several for me really good work Generally 75,00 plus freight he tests all before shipment.let phone ring one man shop plus his wife who does shipping. Shes really cute also so deliver and pick up if possible LOL
 
Several places rebuild carb's, but i'd also stay away from Roberts Carb. Expensive and slow turn around. Marks Carb in Rice Mn.( no affiliation) is a good rebuilder. (320) 393-7272 also Mike Shelby (Poppin John) who has just recently moved to mo. 870-403-3568
 
Go on ebay get a kit for a under $50 and do it yourself about as easy as it gets.Probably a good cleaning a and new bowl gasket will do wonders also DO NOT let the original metal
inlet valve get away from you.
 
Where are you located if you're near me I'd help you do it take less than an hour.I'm in VA.Also if you don't put in a filter between the tank and the carb you're throwing your money away, the sediment bowl assembly will not filter out everything.
 
I was told that the new were foreign made knockoffs and quality was not near the originals and also no one has had rebuilts which I surprised me since the one is a TSX -245. I did buy a couple new ones for my Farmall cubs. One out of the box was great the other 2 flooded terribly. All made in China of course.
 
Those carbs are really simple to work on.

Are you sure it is flooding? True flooding will drip gas sitting with the fuel valve open. It is normal for a few drops of gas to drip following a failed choke assist start.

If after going through the carb, setting the float height, checking or replacing the float, replacing the needle/seat, and it still floods, typically it is caused from trash getting in the needle valve. Are all the screens in place? Is the tank and line clean? Take a sample in a clean glass, see what you catch. If anything is coming down from the tank, it will get in the needle valve and hold it open. Rust chunks can damage the rubber tip of the needle.

A good test of the sealing ability of the needle valve, with the top off the carb, everything assembled and adjusted, turn the top upside down, suck on the fuel inlet fitting and put your tongue over the hole. If it won't hold vacuum, something is wrong, it will flood.

With a clean tank, all factory screens in place, line blown out, I like to fully open the fuel valve before connecting the line to the carb. That will flush anything that might come down the line. Then leave the valve open as you make the final connection. That will keep anything from getting in the line and in the carb.

Paying $300 for a carb repair is insane!!! Rebuilt carbs are available, but only needed if the original is broken or missing major parts. The new aluminum carbs are generic fit-all's, not near the quality of the original.
 
I have bought kits from cheap at Tractors Supply to the expensive complete ones at Steiner. I have set float, used solid steel needle valve with seat. new nozzles, cleaned ports and made sure I could get fluid through all of them. No luck which is why I am at end of my rope. The JD 330 is too good of a tractor to not be able to show easily. I messed up the nozzle threads during a rebuild back when I was using the junk ethanol gas at the convenience store. Knew right when I goofed it but it was too late. Sent it off to be rethreaded/repaired and they put in all new parts even discarding (returning to me in a bag) the new parts I had put in from the Steiner overhaul kit. $400 later got it back, put it on, ran great. I went to a show, came home unloaded and put it in the barn and ran it out of gas to store. 3 months later tried to crank and it was flooding. Tore it down found nothing wrong. Changed and put in new needle and seat no luck. Like I say I am either missing something or it needs help beyond by expertise. I just cant help thinking there is something still not right in the nozzle area.
 
Tried and done everything you have listed. Again its driving me nuts because I am not a guru but certainly capable and you are right they are not that complicated.
 
When I first read your title I thought that someone was going to start talking again about the grumpy guys here on the forum. Man, the spell check police are out in force today ...... LOL !!!
 
Supprise you ever got any good from Dennys. I met him once when he was a speaker at our local tractor club meeting. Never saw a guy run as fast as he did when he could get away from his speach as he was just lucky to get away in one piece. Several years later somebody else had got him booked to be a speaker again, Just a few days befor the meeting I think he finaly realized where he had agreed to be a speaker and backed out at last meeting. People from hia area don't want anything to do with him. Don't understand how he stayed in bussiness as long as he has.
 
I would talk to Mike Shelby ( Poppin John ). He is a member here.

On the 245 I would strip the bottom half and take it to your local shop and have it magnafluxed. If there's no cracks your problem is either the nozzle seal, seat seal, float, or load screw. Do make sure the breather isn't restricted.

Surprised there aren't any used ones on eBay. Usually several for an M on there. Wish you were close as I would enjoy helping you with it.
 
I will second using Mark's Carb in MN. He has done several for me and they are always right. He has had two of mine right now for longer than he said but he also knows I do not have to have them or even have time to work on them right now. Tom
 
The guys on the Red Power forum try to support the advertisers in the magazine....except for Denny's. In over 20 years I think this is the first favorable post I've ever read about them in fact. Yep, not sure how he stays in business.
 

That will work 95% of the time till you get one that does not want to cooperate..

Then its time to rig it up for a pressure test with low pressure air around 2 to 3 psi...

Once you take the job on you marry it along with other issues that will affect what they think is a carb issue : (...

That's why I shy away from walk ins I want the machine at my shop...
 

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