Tire bead setter....

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member
Bought a Cheetah bead setter for the shop. Really impressed with it but the instructions say you need to pull the valve stem core and hook an air line on while setting bead. Needs to be done or the bead wants to break without some pressure holding it in place. Can't I just do this with a clamp on chuck? Anyone familiar with these enough to tell me if there is a reason I have to pull the cores? My worry is that some of my smaller tires I will lose pressure completely before I get the core back in. Any thoughts?
 
Pulling the core and hooking an air line on is using a clamp on type air chuck. You do that so you have air going in and when you send the blast of air in the beads go to the beads but if the air is not going in at the same time and the core out the beads of the tire can go back down and not seat
 
I only pull the cores as a last resort.

Simple enough to leave the core in and try it, and find what works best for you.

It's just AMAZING how well the "cheetahs" work, and the aggravation they save.
 
By pulling the core and hooking a hose up you can put air in a lot quicker, I have had to do that on a bigger tractor tire. A valve core restricts the airflow a lot. But if your using a bead seater that should get the bead started and it shouldn't be an issue. Try it your way, what have you got too loose?
 
I agree Bob. I had a wheel barrow tire that with a broken bead. Tire was completely distorted out of shape from weight of barrow sitting on it. Cold here today so I could not get it to seat well on either side but went ahead and tried the tool anyway. It popped that tire back into shape and seated both sides. Lost the seat right away because I don't have a clamp on chuck...but it would have worked on the first try otherwise. Sure is a nice thing to have around.
 
Depending on your clamp on chuck you may need to get a clamp on chuck like most tire changing machines use. Those flow straight through and you need a valve for shutting it off on a leader hose hooked to it. Many clamp on chucks, that have the plunger to push the core valve, won't work without a core to push back on the plunger to open the valve in the chuck.

I use a regular clamp on chuck and have had good success with a Cheetah type inflation tool, only have had to dig out the straight through chuck a couple times.
 
They make a screw through adapter,well worth the price.its open,you rem9ve core screw it on then snap your quick coupler on air hose on it.when tire beads out tight,snap air hose off run core in through the adapter and snug up.
Most automotive stores carry them,napa and major others
 
Tire like that are why I use bead seal on the tires so whole lot less likely to go flat. I have a 3 wheel dolly the tires liked to go flat all the time but after I used the bead sealer they have not gone back down
 
Got a link because I have no idea what you are talking about? I guess to be honest, I would tell you that the only air chuck I am familiar with is the one in this link. Anything else is new to me.
Air chuck
 
I made one out of a new propane tank with a 2 inch ball valve. Been handy for truck tires and most tubeless tires. I also have one of those dual head air chucks that all you need to do is tip it a bit sideways and it stays on. Looks like it has threads on the inside. Works very well for your truck tires. Where you might want to check the other tire on the wheel, while you air up the other one. They have them with the straight head and the slightly angled back so you can air up duals on a truck. Even with the small hole aluminum wheels.
Don't have a link but if you go to any decent truck parts house they should have them. I know D&D in Corunna has them.
 
Dave there are several styles that lock on or thread on. The one I like for smaller tires is the Milton S-693. This is a straight chuck. It has circular rings on the inside. So you push it on and then push it over at an angle to the vale stem and the rings will hold it on. This will flow enough air to keep most smaller tires inflated. These cost about $10

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On larger tires you can need more air faster to keep them seated. This would be semi truck size tires. I like the Milton S731 fitting for this. They work IF you are using "M" style air couplers. On these you remove the core and then screw the fitting on the stem. They will fill a tire really fast. You can install the core through the fitting and then screw it off. These fittings are $4-5.

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Then to make putting the cores in faster you need one of these handy tools. It has a small end for the regular valve cores and the larger end for some larger cores on flotation tires. You can spin the tool between your fingers and quickly install the valve cores. Milton S-444 cost about $3-4.

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dave , rwb is talking about a fitting that screws on your tire valve stem, it looks like a milton type d male fitting. one end threads on your valve stem and you can use a long core removing tool to pull the core out. then hook your air hose coupling up to the adapter and it blows air in the tire. a lot. you can then bead cheeta or often the volume of air is enough to seat the bead. pop the coupling off and install the valve core thru the fitting. napa or a truck tire shop will have them.
 
dave jd seller posted a picture and milton part number for the fitting. apparently its called a recapper plug.
 
I just lock on an air chuck and blast it with the bead cheetah. Had it reseat on yesterday on the old mack.
 
I mount a lot of lawn mower size tires. We have a knock-off copy of your Bead Cheata that we use to seat the troublesome tires. Like the mashed flat ones from the 'far East'.

The reason that the instructions tell you to take the valve core out is that a lot more air can go in the tire without the restriction of the valve core in the way. When you blow your tankfull of air in the tire there must be some air-actually as much air as possible- going in through the valve stem to hold the tire up against the bead and force it to seat when it hits the lip on the rim. Otherwise it just falls back down again (and you begin to forget your religion). lots of tire lube smeared on the tire bead and rim help too.
 
You should re-write their instructions for them...maybe they will pay you a royalty. :)

I sort of had the idea from their vague description, but it helps to have clarity and understand why the core had to come out.
 
I have a cheetah and have never had to pull the core to air up a tire. Just the clamp on chuck you have. To really make the job better, buy a tub of Frey Lube and use it on the rim. In my opinion, it's the best bead sealer made. Especially for aluminum rims.
 
it's all about volume

On small tires or ones that will almost seat on their own then it's probably not worth spending the time to pull the core out, the blaster will get the job done just fine.

On big tires like on my loader (23.5 x 25) when it hits minus 40 things contract just enough that a couple of tires will start loosing air past the rim rings.
I keep a bottle jack under the back wheels in the winter so they do not completely pop off the rim when this happens.

I can hook a hose to it and let it blow 140 psi all day long and it will not re-seat the tire.

I take out the whole valve core, not just the stem and screw an air hose fitting right on to it, hook the air line to it and there is enough volume moved through it to overcome the leaks and seat the beads.

So go one step at a time until something works;

Step 1 Try the air hose

Step 2 Try the hose and blaster

Step 3 Pull the stem them use hose and blaster

Step 4 Lube the bead again and repeat

Step 5 All of the above and 18 extra hands and bellies trying to contort the tire tighter to the rim

Step 6 Wrap a rope, strap or whatever around it to spread the beads closer to the rim

Step 7 go back and start at step 1 after you have warmed up the tire and used pieces of wood to spread the beads apart overnight

Step 8 check if you have the right size rim for the tire you are trying to mount

Step 9 Screw it put a tube in it

Step 10a call in a tire truck or 10b post on here with the question of how to blow up a tire and not yourself with starting fluid.


Foul language and cold beer can be added as required
 

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