torquing bolts question

I have an 8n Ford tractor. I am putting new manifold gaskets. I dont own a torque wrench. Is it ok to just snuggle them up with a regular ratchet. Every thing I have ever worked on tractor wise I have never torqued just tighten and go. I know that some things needed to be torqued especially engine internal and other parts. If its is something like that I let a professional handle it. I only do minor things.
I know that I have opened a big topic here.

Thanks for the advice
 
Just tighten them down with a 3/8 ratchet applying moderate pressure. It wouldn't hurt to snug them up evenly in a couple of steps though, so you don't snap an ear off.
Loren
 
yes,make sure the surfaces are clean . tighten in 3 steps like torqueing a head, to prevent cracking the manifold. start at centre outward. just snug up by feel to an approx. 30 ft. lbs.
 
That's the way I've always done it, torque the important ones, use some judgment and experience on the rest.

A couple things I would do on the manifold, prep the bolts/nuts first. Be sure they turn free, not bound up with rust. Replace any that are showing signs of rust pitting or the hex rounding off.

Check the manifold surface for flatness. You can carefully hit the surface with a large file to knock down the high spots and remove rust and flaking metal. Just keep the file flat and use even pressure.

Then after the first run up to temp, run them again. High temp applications tend to loosen as the bolts expand with heat and the gasket compresses.
 
With a Fish Scale (fish weighing by hanging the fish on a hook) you can do a fair job. use a wrench or ratchet and pull the 30# perpendicular to the handle at a foot from the nut. If shorter, a little math is needed. I have tightened by hand with no torque wrench for my whole life, so I would just do it, but I have that background. Harbor Freight and others have them for $20 I have good torque wrenches for precision work, even a torque screw driver, But general tightening is done by hand/experience. Jim
 
On a tractor that age, torque was not as critical as it is on more modern equipment. Back when that tractor was contemporary, very few folks had torque wrenches. Even less used them. Putting cast iron parts together was simply not that critical. Most engines were very forgiving in that era.

I learned the value of a torque wrench when I had just started out doing transmission work. I had just rebuilt a transmission and it would not shift right. I fiddled and fiddled until finally the factory rep got involved. His first question was "did you use a torque wrench on the valve body?" My answer , of course, was "no." He told me to drop the pan, loosen the bolts on the valve body, and retighten them using a torque wrench. I did that and it fixed the problem. I learned a lesson that day, and I have remembered it ever since.

Still, if I were working on an 8N tractor, I would probably not use a torque wrench. Tightening things evenly is more important than the actual torque value.
 
Many auto parts store rent tools like torque wrenches or you can buy one for less then $20 and have it. DO not buy a click type unless you know of a place to calibrate it. The simple sweep arm type work well and last one I got cost me less then $20 right out of the box
 
A torque wrench improperly used is more damaging than doing it by it by guess. I learned a lot by reading the instructions that came in the box with the wrench. I only use mine for engine work but my tire man uses his on lug nuts. When I bought my first new Town Car with aluminum wheels, I refused to buy tires from a shop that just tightens to four rattles of the impact Having a torque wrench is not a guarantee that you are getting things assembled right.
 
I agree i use to work in a tire shop. We used a clicker style torque wrench. Many studs where broke when a torque wrench was used so yes i agree you can do harm with one if your not careful
 
Big problem with the clicker type is if not calibrated at least once a year there no good for any thing but a small boat anchor. The sweep type n the other hand tend to be good for ever unless one uses them as a hammer etc.
 
(quoted from post at 23:32:09 10/12/19) Big problem with the clicker type is if not calibrated at least once a year there no good for any thing but a small boat anchor. The sweep type n the other hand tend to be good for ever unless one uses them as a hammer etc.

I would say it has more to do with how it is treated.

Back off the tension when not in use and treat it like any other precision instrument and it will serve you well.

My 1/2 Snap on torque wrench was used almost daily, it was sent in for a calibration check twice a year and in over a decade not once did it need to be adjusted.
 

Using a standard 7" 3/8 drive ratchet about the most you can pull is 35 and that's getting mean with it.

12" 3/8 drive 45 if you get mean with it you will break the tool

10" 1/2" 45 to 55 you can get more and it probably will hang with ya...

Start in the center and work you way out if you hear a loud pop that's not good..

The gasket material, metal, and bolt layout used in the application used are what I use as my go-to when it comes to a torque wrench...

When dealing with inch lbs and converting it to feet pounds is where you can get into big trouble. That's where the proper tool rules...

A proper torque wrench in good operating condition set to the proper recommended setting takes the judgment out of it, its your call...
 

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