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Three point hitch

S

Stephen Newell

Well-known Member
Working on a small Kubota tractor. The piston that lifts the three point hitch I removed to replace the O-ring. Strange set up, it doesn't have a connecting rod attached to the piston, it just has a rod that sits in the bottom of the piston. The piston just floats loose. I think sometime the piston stayed up when the rod went down and has scratched the cylinder wall. It may also have gotten some grit in there, I don't know. Anyway my question is would it be beneficial run a cylinder hone in there or should I leave it alone. The scratches are enough to feel.
 
I would find a place to make you a new cylinder, or find an aftermarket cylinder that will fit.

I used to have a Pasquali 986, and the 3-pt lift cylinder eventually went bad. It was like nothing I'd ever seen before (you know...in all my VAST experience *lol*). I checked around and found that it wouldn't have been very much to have a new cylinder custom built.

I'd be willing to bet it operated much as you described.
 
I would run a hone though it. As for the lift piston the majority of tractors with internal lift pistons, DO NOT have the connecting rod attached to the lift piston. This allows the three point arms to raise if there is an up force on them. Most three point lift arm systems are only made to LIFT not be lifted. Also this keeps the back tires of the tractor on the ground.

Not having this "float" built into the system is one reason that I do not like the majority of after market three point lifts. Many of them are ridged with an external two way cylinder working them. So often the lift linkage get bent when the tractor is used in situations where the implement tries to lift the tractor.
 
Hard to say without seeing it.

Is it yours or a paying customer?

If yours, how hard is it to go back in if it fails?

If a customer, let him decide. Give him the price and time frame if a new cylinder has to be ordered. Come to an agreement about standing behind the work.

Honing it can be beneficial as long as it doesn't oversize the bore, and it would take a lot of honing to do that. If the bore is hard chromed honing will not work. Going back with a hard (90 durometer) oring may help.
 
It's my tractor. The reason I have doubts about honing the cylinder is I realize it would enlarge the bore size a little. Then I believe the reason the three point hitch has been dropping is leakage through the scratches.

I believe the cylinder is cast iron. It's about an hours work to get the cylinder out if it fails.
 
Stephen , we see that ever now and then, no problem in honing the cylinder. I have hist some pretty hard and never had any problems. What happens most times is folks backing up with a box blade and the lift arms ride up so far that the little dog bone drops out. Twenty eight years KUBOTA experience . Worst case is you just have to go back and pull and replace the top but I expect you will be fine if you clean it up .
 
JD Seller nailed it,, I would also say hone it a bit to knock off the sharp edges of the scratch, or it will just take the seal out again in short order, you will not get it all out and dont even try ( sure you know that),, should not leak by too bad unless its really deep,, then a sleeve job is about your only choice or replacement
 
Depends on how deep it was scored. A new seal should take up any oversize from honing. I honed a lift cylinder once before I got a hone by wrapping folded shop towels around a rod and wrapping a sheet of 80 grit emery cloth around them. I experimented with the towels till I got a good fit in the bore. A little motor oil on the emery and an electric drill on the rod worked like a charm. If the scoring isn't much an inexpensive glaze breaker would work. The cylinder I did was steel like an engine sleeve.
 
I went ahead and honed the cylinder. I didn't completely remove the marks but honed it enough I couldn't feel the scratches. Seems to work fine.
 
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