460 farmall

460 farmall

New User
no spark replaced coil , plug wires ,rotor,cap,condenser,points, grounded spark plug to neutral side battery. insulated post on the distributor. rotor turns on the distributor. any ideas ?
 
Get a multimeter or a test light and start tracing connections.
Find out where you have power to the ignition system and where it stops.
Do the points open and close fully?
Did you clean the new points of any coating or oxidation before installing them?
You've most likely got a bad ignition switch, bad wiring, or a bad new component.
 
Are you saying you had spark until you replaced the parts? Or you replaced the parts because you had no spark? It is almost always the points. Replace the points first.
 
OK, first thing I would try would be to clean the points. Even new points can have manufacturing oil or light corrosion that isn't visible to the naked eye. Clean piece of paper, turn the engine over till the points are closed, clamp paper or dollar bill between the points, let them close and pull the paper out.

If that fails a test light or multi-meter. See how far you have power with the points open. Check at the switch, switch side of the the resister if equipped. + side of the coil and at the points.

Helps a lot if you can be more specific with what it's doing or not doing, things already done and a source for any parts you have put on. The reason for the parts is some suppliers are selling junk. Brand new fresh out of the box voltage regulators, points, resistors, condensers and coils are common from some suppliers.

Rick
 
Put your test light or voltmeter on the coil terminal connected to the distributor, ground the other lead.

Open the distributor and watch the points.

With the ignition on, points open, should have approximately 12v or a bright test light.

If no voltage, move the test lead to the ignition side of the coil. If no voltage, keep tracing back toward the ignition switch until you find the break.

If voltage on the ignition side, but not on the distributor side, the points, condenser, or wire is shorted to ground.

If voltage is present on the distributor side coil terminal, turn the engine until thepoints close. Voltage should drop to zero.

If voltage does not drop, the points did not make contact, the wire from the coil to the distributor is open, or the distributor housing is not grounded.

If the voltage did drop, but still no spark when the points open, repeat the voltage test back toward the ignition switch with the points closed (circuit under load). If there is a resistor ahead of the coil, points closed, should have about 6v or dim test light at the coil, 12v ahead of the resistor.

Be careful load testing, don't want to overheat the coil or points. Test quickly, if the coil gets uncomfortable to touch, give it a cool down break.
 
NEVER parts till you trouble shoot or you will add to your problems. Could be as simple as a bad wire or ignition switch but till you trouble shoot you cannot know. Run into this hundreds of times and well I have learned to use things like a simple hot wire as a test device. A hot wire from the ignition side of the battery to the ignition side of the coil can talk to you a whole lot. Hot wired when you hook it up if you have a spark and the points are closed then you know the points are good or you have a short. Spark with the points open you have a short
 
The most expensive way to repair a problem is the shotgun approach. First replace everything in sight. After you spend a fortune on parts, go and seek advice. Meanwhile, you did not fix the problem and may have created even more problems.

Diagnosis is your friend.
 
(quoted from post at 16:44:41 09/25/19) no spark replaced coil , plug wires ,rotor,cap,condenser,points, grounded spark plug to neutral side battery. insulated post on the distributor. rotor turns on the distributor. any ideas ?

I want to thank everyone for there help got 460 running .
 

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