(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

How to get Grease Gun to Pump Grease??

F

Farmallhal

Well-known Member
I seem to be having a lot of trouble recently in getting a hand grease gun to start pumping grease following a cartridge change. I can pump it 200 times or more and no grease comes out the gun. Before those pre-packed cartridges became the norm and we hand filled the gun from a 5 gallon bucket of grease I don't recall any problems but that was decades ago in my youth. I generally have found that beating the end of the grease gun on a piece of wood shakes it loose so it can be pumped out but that doesn't seem to work on this one. I presently have it setting vertically in direct sunshine thinking maybe the grease in the cartridge will flow a little better but it is presently in the 70's now but headed to the upper 80's later today.
Does anyone have a solution that seems to work to get the grease flowing after a cartridge change?? This is a Lincoln brand name grease gun but still could be something from across the big pond to our west. Thanks for any suggestions which might resolve this issue, Hal.
 
I put the tube in start the top back on but not all the way tight then let the plunger go and then tighten the top
 
i leave the pump part only threaded on by a couple of threads---then i release the spring loaded plunger and it pushes most of the air out--then i screw it all the way on while pumping it
 
Very seldom do I have that problem. Now does your gun have a bleader valve? They do help get the airout. Had one old gun I would need to unscrew the hose to get that air bubble out. Dont pump the last little bit of grease out. Take a putty kife, pop the top on the new cartridge, and fill the new tube right to the top. Then load the gun so now there is no bubble at all. The little o rings in the pump are shot and finnaly time for a really good brand new gun. Thats all I got.
 
I bought a new Lincoln gun this past spring. It sometimes airlocks, but I usually have pretty good luck if I use the method of barely screwing the head on and releasing the plunger before tightening the head down. It has a plug (bleed screw?) in the end that looks like the same threads as a radiator petcock. I'm gonna add a petcock to mine (if it fits).
 
Like dpendzic and Cummins said. If that does not work throw it in the trash and buy a new one from Deere. I do not endorse a product very often but this time i will.
 
Is there any chance the tin top is still on the cartridge? (But maybe I am the only person who has done this.)

If you are certain that it is, open the vent if there is one. If there is a hole near the bottom of the threads on the cap, back the tube up so the hole is open to let air out.

Granddadddy's old grease gun didn't have a vent or a vent hole, we had to nearly back the tube off the head assembly so the air could get out past the threads on the tube. Then it would prime and work fine untill you ran out of grease.

I recall back when I was a boy, my Daddy spent an evening with one of Mother's uncles taking apart and cleaning the check valves in grease gun heads. There were several of them and all of them had splinters in the check valves from Uncle's practice of dipping grease out of tubs with a stick to fill them.
 
I changed tubes yesterday, had the same problem, gun has a bleeder, that didn't do it. Took the pipe off, held my finger over it to act as a check valve, 2 pumps and it was bled, took 2 minutes. Been using grease guns for 60 years, if one thing doesn't work, try something else!
 
On most older grease guns the rear plunger had a notch in it that could be engaged by the plunger handle. You simply kept the grease gun head loose enough to allow air to escape while you forced the plunger forward. The last two grease guns I bought don't have that feature. They are junk, pure and simple. Thumping the miserable things on th top of the bench seems to be the only solution.....................Other than throwing the miserable things away......................Which I am seriously am considering.
 
Sometimes the spring pressure is not enough to break the cardboard piston loose in the end of the cartridge. Turn your T handle on the plunger rod so it engages the piston of the gun and push on it to get the piston plunger moving and pushing grease. Also as SV said, leave the head of gun a bit loose to let air escape.----Loren
 
Funny thing is that some grease guns take only a couple pumps to start and others about a week! I bought a new gun from NAPA last year and it is a real problem to get going when you change cartridges. My old grease gun I pump a couple tims and hold down and air bleeds out. The new grease gun doesn't have a bleeder valve, wondering if I could add one. I will try to remember all the suggestions below. Only thing I have found with this one is sometimes if you let it sit a while after filling it works better
 
Been using grease guns all my life and had that problem on near every fill. Like the others have said leave the head loose to let air out and start pumping. If it doesn't start put some pressure on the plunger. One the lock on the plunger died so I resorted to taking the pipe off the head and using my finger as a check valve. Pump put finger over the hole, swing the handle back. and pump it again. repeat as needed. Once it gets going tighten the head down
 
A trick that I use is to pour a little 90 wt oil on top of the grease. This helps prime the pump and get the grease to follow. Usually don't need to do it this time of year, but need it in the winter months as the grease viscosity goes up with cooler temps.

Also helps to stir the grease at the top of the tube a little. Sometimes, especially older grease skims over and the skim keeps the grease from getting to the pump.
 
So glad to find out I'm not the only one to have trouble with different makes of cartridge grease guns! I have spent years thinking it was me being stupid! Still have a couple of old style 'push pump' grease guns that I use when I can, but 'loose' grease is becoming more difficult to source! Jim
 
When I put in a new tube of grease I tighten it down just enough to hold well and then let the plunger loose then I tighten it the rest of the way and that seem to help.
 
I recently gave up on grease guns. I bought a Milwaukee battery operated grease gun. What a sweet tool.

Dave
 
It may have to do with the grease cartridges having a large void in them taking up space that should be grease. TDF
 
Try storing your tubes with the slip off cap up. Also sometimes I screw off the small tube and put your finger over the outlets on the gun, this creates a vacuum which pulls grease into the pump chamber.
 
Simple fix, take the hose or pipe off, hold your finger lightly over the hole, pump the handle slowly and make full strokes.

When solid grease comes with no air it's good to go.

It may get more air in it if there is an air pocket in the tube, just repeat and it will burp the air out.

I don't bother to tighten the hose, just hand tight so it's convenient to purge.

Once working, store it with the plunger up, hose/pipe down.
 
The grease gun plunger end has to be the correct way for cartridges. I believe it is the opposite way from bulk filling. Do like others said. Leave the head a little loose, turn the handle until it engages, push it in and force the air out.
 
I have hung them for a day, it seams to help. I have ruined several guns pounding them on something hard. It is very discouraging to have them not pump after filling them. I pack mine by hand, and leave a little mound on top of the barrel. When the top is screwed on it forces grease into the pump. Might try adding grease to the top of the tube then screwing the top on. Stan
 
I just love it when the metal rim around the end of the cartridge gets banged up.

that way when it is put into the gun it gets crammed in so tight that when it's time to change cartridge, simply grabbing at the tube requires extra force to take it out. resulting in the sharp metal edge to leave a well greased cut. that's why we use red grease
 
like the other guys said assemble the head loose to let-the air out. if that doesnt do it, grab the plunger rod, let the gun hang head down at your side and give it 5 or 6 good hard windmill swings this forces the grease into the head and usually gets it on the first try. yeah , its cave man, but it usually always works.
 
This method almost always works. Take your plunger pull it all the way back.turn it a quarter turn or so until the plunger hits resistance and wont shove all the way back in.then put the plunger handle against your leg and pump it while holding down pressure on the plunger in less than ten pumps it should take off then you can turn the plunger handle a little until it goes in all the way. Works for me every time. RICK
 
My john deere pistol grip gun has small holes near the top of the head.screw tube in 2 or 3 turns then twist plunger and let it snap.see grease ease out those holes sometimes but i start pumping usually 4 pumps its bled.screw tube tight n grease away.i like my john deere gun owned it 25 or 30 years now.got a couple cheepies and they bleed out ok too
 
So, you release the plunger right? Do you push the plunger all the way in or just let the spring pressure follow and push the grease? I say just let the plunger push and follow the grease.I know guys that push the plunger all the way in and have trouble.
 
Your method is exactly what I use, works every time. I worked road construction for forty years and showed a few guys that tip.
 

I will pop that damm check ball out in'em and clean them and make sure the spring behind it is not broken in a heart beat..
 
I keep a cool whip bowl full of grease with a putty knife in it near where I keep the grease tubes. When changing tubes I fill the end cavity of the grease tube with the putty knife. Fill so its slightly rounded past the end. Takes about 2 table spoons or so. Use a Lincoln 12v, dewalt 18v and several manual ones of various ages and brands. never have abit of problems with any of them. If you don't let any air in the system, you don't have to mess around with getting it out.
 
My thirty-seven year old grease gun rarely fails to pump after a tube change, but if I unscrew the head half a turn or so it will always start working.
 
stick in new tube screw it back together but not tight turn gun upside down and after couple pumps you are good to go then screw tube tight. you just have to get the air out,
 
"the club of not peeling off the tin cap"

I'm also a member. Very embarrassing, if anyone is watching.

And do you think they'll tell you that you didn't peel the tin cap? Nooo - they'll watch with delight while you struggle with the "air locked" gun, even offering various hair-brained suggestions to further the discomfort. Then the next time you enter the coffee shop, the story is already all over town.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Grease gun
Replies
8
Views
1K
J.Wondergem
J.Wondergem
R
O.T. grease fitting
Replies
13
Views
611
Mad Farmer
M
super99
Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease
Replies
16
Views
1K
504
5
Oregon Tractor Jack
Greaseable Trailier Axles and Grease Gun Grease
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
MarkB_MI
MarkB_MI
showcrop
grease separating
Replies
13
Views
952
Hobo,NC
Hobo,NC
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top