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OT - radiator coolant level question

SweetFeet

SweetFeet

Well-known Member
Off topic... but need a speedy answer (and husband is at work)...

What does it indicate if the radiator coolant level keeps going down in daughter's old van (twice this week the reservoir had a low level), BUT she cannot see any leaking/dripping/wet spots???

FYI: A FEW WEEKS AGO, this van over-heated due to a leak in the bypass hose. Daughter had it towed in and our mechanics changed the hose and kept the van an extra day to drive it, check it further to make sure the overheating had not caused a head gasket problem.
 
Head gasket is most likely leaking coolant into the combustion chamber. If it's not worth fixing you can try a head gasket sealer from the auto parts store. Sometimes it works. Good luck
 
On my older Pick-up A 97 GMC 2500 5.7 engine it was the intake gasket leaking, I had it fixed a year ago and no more problem. The tank would go down slowly and never seen a puddle or evidence of any leak. could smell anti -freeze by the tail pipe
 
Model and year of the van? Probably a head gasket or the intake manifold gasket (or both as I found on my F150) depending on the model. Change the oil and send it off to Blackstone for analysis. Antifreeze in the oil is a horrible combination.
 
If there is coolant in the oil, it will trash the engine very quickly. Pull the dipstick and look at the oil. if it looks like chocolate moose, or pudding do not drive it. If it is a bit tan it is still not drivable. Head gasket coolant leaks into oil passages don't happen much, the pressure is going the opposite way. Gasket leaks into the crank case do happen, and that is deadly to the bearings. coolant leaks into the combustion chamber when minor cause combustion gasses in the coolant. There are kits (cheap) to test coolant for this from parts stores. If the oil looks normal, do the test in the radiator cap, not the reservoir following the directions on the kit info. No stop leak will fix a leak into the combustion chamber. Jim
 
Bit of white or light blue smoke at start up? I agree with the other fellows. If the oil continues to look good, you may try a can of stop leak in the rad that might seal a small crack, and keep driving it, but the next overheating incident may well doom the engine.
Good luck!

Ben
 
So many possibilities.

Year model and motor might give a hint to common issues.

Otherwise just diligence and perseverance will tell.

A simple pump up cooling system pressure tester might get you started. Pump it up to whatever the cap is rated at and look see everywhere for the leak. Have the radiator tested for exhaust fumes. have oil tested for coolant and coolant tested for oils.
 
I had one where the upper hose connection on the radiator was cracked. It leaked just enough to lose coolant but not so much as be wet. Similarly just had a leak on the Explorer. I has a plastic tank where the thermostat sits. The cover warped over time and heat letting coolant out. Like the first one, the leak would steam off until it got bad then showed itself. One more bolt in the cover and it wouldn't have had an issue.
 
I had a 2003 Chrylser Town & Country minivan with the factory plastic radiator (what a great idea). It was mysteriously losing coolant out of a crack at the top of the radiator so I never saw it leak. Had to replace the cheap plastic radiator with a new cheap plastic radiator.
 
SweetFeet, I hope not a Ford! A few of the engines, Edge I know for sure has an internal water pump (one of Fords better ideas) when waterpump seal goes out will wipe out the engine, does not leak to outside but goes into crank case.
 
My dodge pickup was doing the same thing. It was the water pump leaking. Couldn't see the leak setting. That was my problem. Probably wouldn't cost much for a garage to do a pressure check. Stan
 
Depending on how hot it got, could have damaged a head gasket.

Usually the first place coolant in the crankcase will show up as condensation under the oil cap or just inside the valve cover beside the cap.

Other symptoms are steam out the exhaust even when up to temp, loss of power, as in misfire, overheating and blowing coolant out the overflow, and mystery coolant loss.

Or it could still have a small leak. If it has a plastic radiator, locate the tank where the upper radiator hose connects. Look on the front side of the tank where the upper hose connects. Common to crack there from the heat. Sometimes won't see liquid coolant, but look for brown discoloration.
 
Had a 80s Ford V6 that was loosing coolant with no visible leaks. Eventually found it was leaking from the weep hole only while running and the pulley would fling it away so never saw a drip.
 
Thought of one other tip. Unlock the radiator cap if it is the high point of the system. That way the system will not pressurize and will slow any leaks way down. Did it with a chevy astro van and a Chrysler mini van. The top of the radiator was leaking on the V-6 van and the Astro blew a head gasket. Got both of them home with just adding a little water. Not a long term fix but it worked. If you need Bars stop leak it is usually too late. Hope you have good luck with it.
 
Simple test for bad head gasket or cracked head. Take the overflow tube and stick in a clear glass of water. With a cold engine, start the motor. Do you see bubbles? If so, the head gasket is bad.
 
Thank you, everybody!! Much appreciated!!

Oil looked normal in the old van - not weird, like water mixed in.
FYI: it is 19 year old Nissan Quest... so I believe it to be tied-in with Ford Company.

So daughter will keep on driving it, for now... though its days are numbered. It's a tired ol' vehicle.

Today, she just might have found a car to buy. Our mechanic will do an inspection on it Friday... if he gives a good report, she will likely buy it.
 

Yep it has a ford V6 and can leak coolant everywhere.. They are a bear to work on none of the aftermarket hoses fit it well when I do'em its all OEM.. If it has rear heat on the top rear a connector for the heater hoses that/s plastic is the most common leak... If its patched there you are asking for trouble... It only has a mile of heater hoses and metal pipe...

Lets don't even think about the timing cover gasket leaking : ( they are a nightmare to repair...

If you do repair it dye the system that's about the only way you are gonna find all the leaks...

Google coolant leak detection dye system..

Its a hand grenade don't pull the pin..
 
Please, please, please!!

Do NOT EVER use stop leak or any other coolant leak sealer in any automobile engine. Ever. Go ahead and use it in old tractor engines or other equipment, but NEVER in an automobile.

It is a rock solid guarantee that it WILL plug up your heater core. And, since you are in Minnesota, that makes it doubly important not to use stop leak.

How do I know this? Because all of my friends that have used stop leak have been coming to me to get their heater cores flushed. Every winter. Some I have even had to replace the heater cores. What a job that is on most cars! Start by removing the entire instrument panel. Talk about a lot of fasteners! Then there are some that are right next to impossible to reach with a tool.

Nope, you guys with the stop leak solution apparently have never had to deal with the consequences of using that stuff.
 
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