Tap and Die sets

modirt

Member
Now that I'm doing some of my own wrenching again, I am finding the need for a good tap and die set to clean up the internal and external threads on bolts and castings.

One brand of set that turns up now and is the Little Giant by Greenfield. An example would be this one......

https://chicago.craigslist.org/search/sss?sort=rel&query=tap+and+die

I also noticed this one.....which is the similar sounding "Giant"....but was made in Japan.

https://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/d/shawnee-mission-45-giant-tap-die-set/6937576076.html

What is curious about this last one is the reference to NC / NF threads.

I'm familiar with standard SAE nut and bolt sizes like 1/4 - 20, etc., and metric size, but what is NC / NF and do I want one?
 
Find a Hanson brand set, that the dies are adjustable, and with these sets you can put the dies in a socket for hard to reach area. The Greenfields are good too but to big and bulky.
 
NC and NF are the two standard U.S.A inch system thread pitches for each thread diameter. There are other pitches used as well as proprietary pitches made for
special purposes. NC is also called Unified National Course, and NF is Unified National Fine. In common use is a different term use it is Course thread, and
SAE thread (fine) This is not fundamentally accurate, but used. Metric bolts are found in course and fine pitches as well, and quite often 3 pitches.
Greenfield is very good. Japanese tools are good today as well. Ace is a moderat price tool that also works. Jim
 
I think a set made in the US will be a good choice. Japanese sets made now may also be a good choice, but be not so sure of older sets made in Japan. Stan
 
Be nice if you could find an older Craftsman set. Our shop burned in 1976, so we had to buy everything new. So I know our set of Craftsman tap and dies are from that era.

I have found good stuff in pawn shop and junk stores. I buy lots of hand tools there as I refuse to purchase or use Chinese junk.

Gene
 
NC= National coarse so on a 1/4" thread, for example, that is 20 threads per inch, referenced as 1/4-20. NF is National Fine, 1/4", 28 threads per
inch so 1/4-28.
 
Good advice so far.......and I'm in agreement on tools from China......I don't want em.

So semi-related.......what is a good broken screw extractor? Example......one of the screws for the plate on the gearbox of my New Holland 56 rake is snapped off flush with the box. Screw remnant may be in a blind pocket in the casting.

The only kind of extractor I'm familiar with are the kind where you have to drill a hole in the screw, then drive in a square ended extractor and turn it out backwards. That has never worked well for me.....most of the time the cutters on the extractor slip before they bite hard enough to get the screw to move.
 
The Snap -on tap and die set has always been a bargain . First one I bought was 80 bucks .Second one was 230. last year. Has thread gauge included.
 
(quoted from post at 09:00:59 08/23/19) NC= National coarse so on a 1/4" thread, for example, that is 20 threads per inch, referenced as 1/4-20. NF is National Fine, 1/4", 28 threads per
inch so 1/4-28.

So that Japanese made Giant set might be OK for my use......assuming they were made of tool steel vs. scrap steel.
 
Have a Blue-Point tap & die set that have had for many years and has been very good!!! Strongly advise that you
get a set that the dies will fit in a socket, comes in very handy at sometimes in a tight areas!!!! !
 
another good investment is a thread pitch gauge, not expensive and as usefull as a shirt pocket.
 
Go on ebay and look for the older Greenfield tap and dies,most times they can be bought for less than the cheapie new sets sell for.I have 1 very large complete set in a wooden box
and several almost full sets fine, older tools.
 
For goodness sakes buy a really good set of
LEFT hand drill bits. About $30 for I think
it is five bits. Slowly drill into the
broken stud and often enough it will just
pop loose and back out. If you break an
easyout you are toast. This is just one on
Ebay. Looks like a nice kit. You need to
remember that extractors make things
tighter! Another thing on here that a lot
of folks recommend is that kroil oil stuff.
I finally bought some and it has worked
very very nicely on several stuck things.
Bright orange can. The local NAPA has it.
They charge enough for that little 8oz. can
but I found a brand new can complete with
dust for $2.oo. Never opened. Flea market!
 
I got a big older craftsman set then several
oddball sizes,cummins headbolt tap etc
And YES ON KROIL.i get mine from ebay 8 oz 12.95
free shipping.its also great gun bore cleaner too
 
I bought a new metric and SAE tap and die set to keep at a 2nd property I have. I tend to use taps and dies pretty hard and often break the
cheap stuff. My main shop a lot of USA made and up to now - I always figured taps and dies from Asia or Turkey were a bad investment. Well?
I looked at the Gearwrench sets and bought two. That was two years ago and they have greatly exceeded my expectations. I don't care what
country they came from. 100% excellent and work every bit as well as any older USA made tap or die I own (and sometimes better).
 
Another vote for Kroil, been using it for a while. I came across a discount coupon for two 20 oz aerosol cans so I ordered them. Convenient but wasteful and there was never enough gas to use the whole can. Ended up emptying them into a smaller can to brush it on.

dopp creek, I have a 1/4-40 tap in my collection from some stuff my dad had. Also a 1/16 NPT just in case.
 
I bought a large Craftsman set back in the early 80's must have been made in the US as I have yet to break a tap. It has SAE from 4-40 to 1/8 pipe and metric sizes in the same range. One of the most used and cherished items in my shop.
 
(quoted from post at 13:34:22 08/23/19) Good advice so far.......and I'm in agreement on tools from China......I don't want em.

[b:091d6753a4]So semi-related.......what is a good broken screw extractor?[/b:091d6753a4] Example......one of the screws for the plate on the gearbox of my New Holland 56 rake is snapped off flush with the box. Screw remnant may be in a blind pocket in the casting.

The only kind of extractor I'm familiar with are the kind where you have to drill a hole in the screw, then drive in a square ended extractor and turn it out backwards. That has never worked well for me.....most of the time the cutters on the extractor slip before they bite hard enough to get the screw to move.

Nobody has made one yet.
 

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