F600 truck help

1978 F600 361V8. Need to replace exhaust manifold gaskets and broken or missing studs. Anyone have a preferred method to do the job correctly? Tough reaching into engine area. What should be removed? Gonna be a hay and tractor hauler.

Its 41 years old. I'd pull the heads and have a machine shop perform a valve job and remove the broken manifold bolts/studs. Trying to do that inside the engine bay was huge ordeal back in the early 1980s when those engines were 10 years old or less - I doubt any of it got easier in 30+ years.

If front wheel was off, does it look a little more accessible?

If the studs are broken off it is easier (for me) to just take the head off.
The location of the frame rail makes it hard to get a drill in there without jacking on the motor anyway.

But then again I worked for a place that had a fleet of those trucks.
Since it was the only thing I worked on day in and day out I knew that engine compartment like the back of my hand.

If they dont come easy heat them. If it's a 390 block heating is the way. If it's a 460 and the back bolt is busted out they make a bracket that bolts to the head and clamps the manifold.

Had a F750 with 361 V8 a long time ago. Had the same issue. Decided it was easier to pull the engine. Wasn't a bad job as I recall. Getting the studs out was the worst part.

Right side leaks now. Figure might as well do left side too. Any chance of opening up a bigger can of worms by taking the heads off? Thanks

Original gasket was all metal like this part # FPG MS95000 this is for a 390 dunno if it will work on your 361. If you go back with anything else like these you will not like it... PG MS9812

Hunt some OEM gaskets with the heat shields...

I would have new manifolds on hand and all new hardware. I would not go after it with out a torch. I have never had a problem with the lower row of bolts other than rounded heads. The top row is where the boogieman is hiding out.. Sometimes you break them off that's the way it is...

Its doable from the top and bottom... Worst case remove the front end I would if I had to remove the heads are at the least the radiator support...

Lets say you end up removing the heads let the machine shop battle the broke bolts in a mill : )....

A story...

I pulled one of those sent the engine to jasper to be rebuilt I removed the radiator support life was good... I spent several nights getting the exhaust manifolds off ended up with one broken bolt... I told the pick up guy sorry I did the best I could do, he told me I should have just broke'em all off they have a guy that gets them out that's all he does...

I installed the engine and wanted to set the timing before I put the radiator support back in... Ready to go I had my gofer fire it up and turn the engine up I had a fender cover over the front frame rail... All of a sudden the fan sucked the fender cover up rapped it around everything including the harness at the alternator pulled the wiring harness out of the firewall... I sent several hours that night repairing the harness (SHAME)

There is always a can of worms to be found in a motor this old.
As Hobo said the boogieman is hiding in those exhaust bolts.

Without knowing the condition of the internal motor and the fact I am spending someone else's money it is hard to say how deep you should go. The one thing I do know is it is a bear to get those exhaust bolts drilled with the head still on the motor.

Pulling the engine might be the easiest way without getting into engine work if it is running OK now. If it needs a valve job then just pull the heads maybe.

Pull the wheels and the fenders . If they?re not coming heat the bolt try it again still no heat it again

Easy job to pull that engine.I worked at ford dealership 79 and 80 they gave me all the big trucks.Usually I would pull engine just to do head gaskets.