Color Xtra paint by Uni-Select?

modirt

Member
Anyone have experience with this stuff? Local farm and home place just started up down the road and I try to do business with them every chance I get. This is the stuff they stock and sell to paint farm equipment with.

Next to impossible to find any information on the Internet about them.

Want to paint a piece of equipment......doesn't have to be show room quality......mostly just want it to look decent and paint to last longer than it takes to paint it.

Second question.......color selections are limited (only one AC orange, for example). To paint same colors as Ford 8n, color choices seem to be Ford Gray and Massey Red. They would also have Harvester Red.
 
Not necessarily so but what I have found. Most rattle can paints work well with
international harvestor OEM being fantastic. Covers with one aplication and
drys very well. Rustoleum is right in that class. Drys a little slower. Ace
hardware paints still are pretty good too. Many of those kinds of paint are
made by Sherwin Williams. Now for the rest. At tractor supply that stuff in
cans they call paint.....well. Had to match something and it was close enough.
It took a week to get totally good and handling dry. Just wouldn't get dry. It
had a soft feeling, kinda squishy. Plane and simple.....buy a couple of cans,
different colors for what you might need, and try them out. Run your own
quality control test. At a few bucks a can it will be an adventure. Have you
ever seen a paint test farm ??. I have been past two of them. They look pretty
neat.
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I agree, the supplier I use sold me some brand x clear coat and it lifted from having a wet cloth on it too long. Then I still had the clear coat which I was going to fix the spot and found out the hardener had dried up. I went to get some more and the company had gone out of business so I'm going to have to start over. As much work as it is to paint it's not worth using substandard materials.
 
My friend just did a job in Nason black with clearcoat . The Nason clear coat turned to white spots and it was a do-over with a new brand of paint. Very frustrating for him.
 
Painting anything is one of my least favorite things to do, so avoid it when I can.......but sometimes I can't.

In doing the background work on previous projects, one thing I have found is the need to be consistent with the primer and paint. For example, alkyd on the label means oil based, which does not adhere well to epoxy or epoxy primers. So stuff like the inexpensive Van Sickle paints, which are oil based enamels would not do well over an epoxy primer. You need to use a polyurethane or acrylic......(water based).

The second thing I found was most of the high end 2 pack automotive polyurethane paints have isocyanates that require special breathing equipment and masks to use safely with a spray gun, and I don't have those.

So the choices seem to be using something inferior or having to ramp up to do the good stuff safely.

Which is why I don't like to paint! (plus I suck at it)
 
I'm not impressed with Nason. I painted a case tractor with a single stage paint. The step and the floorboard I used six coats because I knew it would get additional wear and the paint is worn off after 150 hours use. Then the smoke stack is about an inch from the hood and the heat blistered the paint.

The car I was referring to with the clear coat, it was broke down and I couldn't move it and a hail storm was coming. I covered the car with furniture blankets and then plywood. A couple of days later after the storms went by I uncovered it and the clear coat look like it goose bumps on your skin. The factory paint even though it was about 30 years old was fine. The bumps never went down. They feel solid but there is now a texture to the finish. I was going to make an attempt to sand it smooth and give it another coat of clear and see what happened but the hardener was shot. I'm probably going to have to refinish it again but I thought I would give it a try. It's funny they say the urethanes they make today are a better finish but I never had any problems when automotive paint meant lacquer.
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:09 08/15/19) I'm not impressed with Nason. I painted a case tractor with a single stage paint. The step and the floorboard I used six coats because I knew it would get additional wear and the paint is worn off after 150 hours use. Then the smoke stack is about an inch from the hood and the heat blistered the paint.

The car I was referring to with the clear coat, it was broke down and I couldn't move it and a hail storm was coming. I covered the car with furniture blankets and then plywood. A couple of days later after the storms went by I uncovered it and the clear coat look like it goose bumps on your skin. The factory paint even though it was about 30 years old was fine. The bumps never went down. They feel solid but there is now a texture to the finish. I was going to make an attempt to sand it smooth and give it another coat of clear and see what happened but the hardener was shot. I'm probably going to have to refinish it again but I thought I would give it a try. It's funny they say the urethanes they make today are a better finish but I never had any problems when automotive paint meant lacquer.

Stephen, I have been very happy with Nason but I use hardener and have not used single stage. Maybe you are expecting a little too much from bottom of the line.
 

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