I have an older but good functioning septic tank that is beginning to be overtaken by roots from a Maple tree. The septic tank is still outside of the drip line of the tree. The tree provides valuable shade and is a good wind break for the house. I really do not want to take it down. I am thinking of cutting a trench between the septic tank and tree to: 1) at least kill the roots that are presently growing around the septic tank and, 2) set the roots back a few years before they can grow back to the septic tank. I probably could get 20 feet back from the septic tank and still be 20 feet away from the trunk of the tree. A contractor said I could throw some softener salt in the trench as it was back filled to help hold the roots back as well. I have even wondered about placing some 1/8 inch poly in the trench as a barrier to slow down the roots. Poly comes in 4' by 8' sheets from Menards. Can the tree survive this?? Can I slow down the roots? I know I dug in some electric wires 3' to 4' deep, 6 feet away from another Maple and it didn't phase it. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
- Thread starter andy r
- Start date
I would go for it with your new trench half way between the tree trunk and the septic tank. Typically maples are shallow rooted so your plastic barrier does not have to go real deep, 3 to 4 feet should be sufficient. Personally I would leave the salt in the bag. Recently I dug up part of a septic drain system installed 25+ years ago that had a sock around 4 inch corrugated plastic with holes. It was still in like new condition.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
It won't hurt the tree. Sounds like a plan.
Something else you can do, dig down just after the last tank, tee in a riser pipe to the lateral line with a removable cap.
Then you can start treating the leach field with copper sulfate crystals.
The copper will deter tree and grass roots without damaging either. But it is only a deterrent, it won't clear existing roots.
Something else you can do, dig down just after the last tank, tee in a riser pipe to the lateral line with a removable cap.
Then you can start treating the leach field with copper sulfate crystals.
The copper will deter tree and grass roots without damaging either. But it is only a deterrent, it won't clear existing roots.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
I say go for it too. Dad did this 30 years ago on a golf course to keep tree roots from sucking water out of a grass green making the green very hard and fast. He got hold of some heavy grain pile tarp to hang down in the trench. I dont know how deep the trench was as I wasnt there. This was well under the drip line. The tree was shading part of the green. I cant say how successful it turned out to be but at least he tried. If I was to give advice on how to do it, id say dig the trench farther around the tank than you think you should.
Go on Ebay and buy some of this stuff. Steve gave you the same advice. Had a silver maple get into my down line from the house. What a mess that was. The repair I made will never be messed with again. Poured concrete around the joint and sprinkled these pretty blue crystals all over in the trench. If you go to the store and read the label on a can of root killer...copper sulfate is the main ingredient. I bought several bags.
Oliver 500 Wa
Member
I have a friend that owns a tree service. He often does what they call root pruning for the reason you describe. The other frequent reason is to crop roots that are going to break up sidewalks or driveways
Usually done with one of his big stump grinders. It will reach down about 2 feet and just grind a trench between the tree and the item to be protected.
Usually done with one of his big stump grinders. It will reach down about 2 feet and just grind a trench between the tree and the item to be protected.
You can use rock salt sir. Just flush it down the toilet. It will get in the lines and in the tank. The roots will pull back. The salt will not hurt the system and the tree will live. I have seen the salt used several times with success. You need to make it a regiment though. If you quit doing it then the roots will come back. The good thing is no ditch to dig. I have used the salt at one place. I flush a cup of salt every evening for a week for initial treatment then a cup every month.
Hard or soft maple. Reason I ask is soft maples will take more abuse. If you are at or outside the dripline most trees can tolerate this, however you are not doing it any favors. If they are stressing for any other reasons as well it can intensify the impact. If you're set on a barrier 3' would be sufficient if it is decent soil, less if it's rocky. The copper sulfate treatment works. Free advice
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