John deere 24t balers your opinions

JOCCO

Well-known Member
There is lots of them coming to market, all at once I cant believe it. What do you guys think of them? Care to share your opinions? I always liked them. Years back seemed like 14t was for sale in numbers. There is also some others like 336 and 224 showing up. I am tempted to pick one up and was surprised how many parts are out there for them. I have not had to deal with them for quite awhile as stuff comes and goes.
 
Well, they're essentially antiques and most any example you come across will be well worn, if not completely worn out. Probably cheap enough to buy unless you find a low-houred cherry model that only baled to church on Sundays by a little old lady. Might want to buy two or three just to have parts.
 
A good 1960's baler. Like previously mentioned any machine decades old needs to be checked over for wear and abuse. Even the best equipment requires maintenance and upkeep. One advantage of newer balers is the tines in the pickup unit are spaced closer together for easier gathering of short or fine materials.
 
We are getting ready to bale about 2000 bales of straw this week with ours. It works great and only leaves a bale untied when changing balls of twine. Ours has a 30 hyd. bale thrower. We changed it to electric distance control so I can bale with a cab tractor. It is slow and I wish for a bigger pickup as well as the teeth closer together but for less than 3000 bales per year it gets the job done. When it quits we will be done with little bales. On a budget and a smaller operation you will like it. Years ago Dad did 20,000 per year with a 24t every year. Did update to a 336 but the 24t did good. Tom
 
We had one back in the ?70s. It had the hydraulic thrower, and was a really reliable machine. I don?t think the mechanical thrower was near as good.
 
there is nothing wrong with them . lots have just been stored since the rounds balers came out. had one for many years. just sold it last summer for 500.00 with a complete parts baler.
 
(quoted from post at 15:12:57 07/30/19) There is lots of them coming to market, all at once I cant believe it. What do you guys think of them? Care to share your opinions? I always liked them. Years back seemed like 14t was for sale in numbers. There is also some others like 336 and 224 showing up. I am tempted to pick one up and was surprised how many parts are out there for them. I have not had to deal with them for quite awhile as stuff comes and goes.

A 24T was a decent baler in it's day, and even today, still a "fair" baler.

NO comparison though, with a 336 in capacity (20 more plunger strokes per minute, IIRC), number of teeth in the pickup, and pickup width, and plungerhead guide system.
 
IMHO the 24t was a fine baler in their day. If you can find one in decent shape that the seller can demonstrate it operates, ties and makes a brick bale for a good price, I?d buy it.

I cut my teeth stacking behind a 24t and was amazed at the consistent bricks it made. That experience weighed heavily in my decision to buy a JD 348 many years later

Good luck,
Bill
 
thats waaayy to much. even 1500.00 is lots for a 24t. around here anyway. I notice every one sure has a high price on all square balers.
 
"It works great and only leaves a bale untied when changing balls of twine. "

That's the only issue I've ever had. The first bale after a twine changeover.

I'm currently on a string of over 1850 bales without a problem, since I replaced all the chains on mine. I bought a parts baler, when I bought the one that worked. Less than $1300.00 in both.
I've sold enough bales to pay for both machines, not including the bales I've needed. Money ahead, as far as I'm concerned. Parts still available from JDparts.com. Field ready for a second cutting in a week or so. Do you need production quantity, or put up a hay crop on several acres reliably, and cost effective?

 
I had 2 of them years ago, then went to 336. I put a 30 kicker on my last one. It was a very nice barn find condition when I bought it at a consignment auction. I sold it for $1400 about 10 years ago. It was worth every penny at that time. However, the 336 has rollers in the plunger, gear knotter drive and is faster. It is a heavier machine though and really wants a 80+ hp tractor.
 
Part of the handy work of a 24t a few weeks ago. Good machine.


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I don?t know, but my 50 hp PTO tractor is at ease with my JD348, pan kicker and wagon in 150 bales per acre (one field this year)... :)


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Like most others, to me the major problems would be the lack of bearings on the plunger, and the pick-up. If you will be baling much second cur, you lose a lot due to the wide tine spacing.
 
One thing I will add is that many 24t's had just strait rods on the pickup compressores. As an option you could get the curved ones that went down against the pickup like the 336 used. The curved ones are much better at feeding in short hay. I changed my baler 25 years ago and it really helps with getting thin short material. Tom
 
I put right around 2600 -2800 bales a year through mine. Once you learn their quirks you can bale all day and only miss a couple of ties. You can?t be a speed demon. I cranked out this years bales with the 886 in first low with the TA pulled back. That made for long days with the same songs on the radio. My rule of thumb is if you can out walk it then you are going the right speed. Except for straw. To get that slick stuff to feed well you have to kick it up quite a few gears.

I use it solely behind my 886 now but I have used my old Farmall M in a pinch. You want to talk about being rocked to death! But it did just fine. With those I think a lower horsepower tractor is good. You can hear the tractor labor before you shear a bolt or get into something heavy enough to start breaking twine.
 
Good baler; have one that I use and have parted out three others to have parts in the shed at the ready. I had some tying problems with my 24T caused by sloppy/loose tucker fingers and put on the tucker finger upgrade kit from Finger Lakes Equipment in NY (they specialize in JD square balers). Made a world of difference and now only miss a tie when the twine switches over, as others have mentioned. Would love to upgrade to something with more capacity but the 24T is paid for and working.
 
My dealer added plunger extentions to mine 20 years ago and it makes a big difference in straw. Pushes it into the bale chamber more so it springs back less. Tom
 
(quoted from post at 13:41:29 07/31/19) I don't understand how with extensions it will return far enough to have throat completely open.

Plunger head extension don't have any adverse affects on hay entering bale chamber but they sure help tying process in spongy hay like straw.
 
Don't know anything about those JD balers? Is the 24T rated for same capacity as a 14T or is it bigger and if bigger run faster or bigger bale chamber?
 
They are only about 2 inches. Just enough to push springy straw into the bale case some more. It definitely made for less mistied bales in straw and causes no issues with hay either. I just came in from baling 520 bales of straw with no open bales. It even changed twine without leaving an open bale today. Tom
 
(quoted from post at 17:37:19 07/31/19) Don't know anything about those JD balers? Is the 24T rated for same capacity as a 14T or is it bigger and if bigger run faster or bigger bale chamber?

24T replaced the 14T so capacity of 24T will equal or be more than 14T but I don't remember the spec's of either. If I was going to chose a JD baler of that era it would be a 224 with rollers on plungerhead & more capacity.
 
Just curious as to if the newer one would require a bigger tractor to operate. So if a 14 could be operated with a 25 horse tractor would that same 25 horse tractor handle a 24 or would it need like a 30 or 35 horse tractor? Just dissciouns on here about thinking should go newer on baler without saying if the newer might require more power that the person thinking about might have. So would the 224 require a still bigger tractor?
 

I think HP required difference between 14T & 24T for operation would be about equal. Size of tractor required to operate any small sq baler has very many variables.Type & moisture of hay. Size of windrows,baling travel speed,topography of soil,putting bales in towed trailer or dropping on the ground. Yrs back I pulled a pto driven JD 214 dropping bales on the ground on level topography with a JD BO(14 HP).
 

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