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It's green

grandpa Love

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Seller says motor turns but can't
get started everything turns in
baler. Thoughts? My wife likes
this one. How unusual to have it's
own motor?
<img
src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto30736.png">

<img
src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto30737.png">
 
Check the clearance between the crankshaft and plunger connecting rod. Have seen the bearing pounded out and crankshaft scored from lack of grease. It is a babbited bearing in that position.
 
Not unusual to have an engine on the older balers, because tractors often lacked power or live PTO to make PTO operation feasible. If you're pulling with an old Ford tractor, engine would be an advantage. Of course it won't start- its a Wisconsin! Make sure engine has compression, then buy it. Engine will just need a little tinkering. You might want to take someone along who knows balers to help determine condition of the unit.
 
If that wis. has any compression, a good hot mag should fire it up cold. Not so if you kill it & try a hot start.
 
Before live PTO that were very popular but with the live pto became less and less as people thought one less engine to maintain and baler would do as much. That is false tho as with the engine you have infinate speeds by adjusting tractor throttle. to match the verrying amounts in field you are baling, PTO you have to pick gear for heaviest spots and stay in that if you get to thin spot and could traver faster. I don't know what engine it has but might not be factory engine. You have some tractors without live power and that baler would work good behind them with the engine. And other than New Holland the Deere would be best to get parts for if it is a twine baler. Wire you could not give one away here in Ohio of any make. That is only baler you have talked about that I would give a second thought to. Smaller capacity but you would not be trying to push a thousand bales a day through it. The N Fords would handle it without problems. I believe it might be a 14T that was Deeres first twine tie baler in 55, the wire version came in 56. And you can find the parts list on line under Deeres parts lookup site. I don't think you could go wrong with it if it is the twine version even tho scrap is now down to $110 a ton as that baler would weigh about a ton and a half. And if turns out to be no good it would be a good learning experiance for you. When that baler was new Sad went with the NH 66 with the engine as he liked it better but both in same class.
 
Not starting is a lot of time a bad diaphram in fuel pump and hot starting problem is engine is too hot from not having the air shields taken off every day and dirt blown out of all the cooling fins. You can take a not starting engine and do proper daily maintainse and it will then start every time. Took Dad a few uears to realize what the problem was. Our Wisconsin on the NH66 baler was bored once and about to need it a second time, that is how many bales we put through that baler. Most with it behind a 2N Ford.
 
I think you will like it. If the motor is an issues there were thousands of 14t balers so pto changeover parts are plentiful. I have a parts one here (WI) that I would sell the parts off cheap but shipping would be expensive. There are lots of stories about baler engines and most involve a non starting hot engine. For your operation it would be good. The nice thing is you can pull it with any tractor and with different throttle setting on the tractor get a ground speed that matches your windrow size. Good luck. Tom
 
I saw a new New Holland with a diesel being pulled by a team of horses and a hay wagon attached to bailer. Everything had steel wheels.

Only wish I had a camera.

This was in Parke county, Indiana.
 
Straight pipe looks like a good way to burn down your field or barn ? if started where it sits.
 
Dad had a V-4 Wisconsin motor on an A-6 Case combine. The carburetor was located between the two banks of air cooled cylinders. It would not re-start for anything after it was working well due to gas line vapor locks. It needed to cool for close to an hour before it would re-start. We had to refuel it with the engine running and there was heck to pay for an hour if you slugged that engine. I don't know if the two cylinder Wisconsin engines had the same problem.

A two cylinder Wisconsin engine is around 10 to 15 HP? That will be a SLOOOWWW baler compared to a PTO driven machine. We normally ran a PTO driven 14T at around 2.5 MPH with 55HP tractors at PTO speed. That baler might be OK if you only need to bale less than a few hundred bales in an afternoon. Keep the windrows light and consistent.

Look over the knotters very well, they are the heart of the machine.
 
Is that a JD 14T?? I've owned 2 or 3 of them and the engine was an option on them. The engine made it so a small tractor like say by 1935 JD-B could be used to ale hay with. Or in other words you could pull it with your smoking 8N as long as you where on flat ground. Hills would push you around. I have the manual for it by the way if it is a 14T
 
The PTO driven 14Ts had a large overrunning/slip clutch on the PTO shaft. In heavy baling with a large HP tractor (90 hp) that clutch could slip a little each plunger stroke without snapping the flywheel shear pin. The flat belt between the engine and the flywheel would do the same job as the slip clutch. Would the tension on the belt be very touchy to be light enough to avoid snapping shear pins but not tight enough to slug the engine?
 
Those engines have a tendency to have the exhaust valves stick when sitting. I would buy it and take a chance on getting it running. I also have a lot of parts for a 14T and 24T. You can also convert to a later style knotter real easy. E-mail is open. Send me an e-mail for phone number.
 
Others have covered it. I will add expect it to be slow baling go light on you windrows. Get some manuals and get familiar with that thd wisconsin. Very good engine some had electic start you ran a cable to the battery in a b or 50 deere. Also buy plenty of sheer pins for the flywheel.
 
Baler is ok but that wisconsin isnt,i got a scar across top of my head from a damm v4 wisconsin on the old automatic john deere baler a 14t replaced.if you get it started never shut it off.
1 dad had kicked back,i was 14 and it shoved me up into the L shaped handle you pulled to engage the baler..
Dad bought a low rpm 1 horse electric drill,got an adapter made to fit the engine crankshaft stub. Ive seen that drill run forever it seemed before it would start sometimes
 
That?s a 100 dollar baler, nobody else is liable to make an offer, then take the other 200 and convert it to PTO and you will have a good rig.
 
Grandpa for what it is worth I say spend your hard-earned money on a baler without another engine to maintain or repair. If your tractor collection continues to grow you will have plenty of others to look after.
 
You will spend the first half of the day starting the engine and be too tired to wrestle with the knotters the second half. I know from a 50T IH.
 
I would run and run fast my dad bought of a year old when i was a teenager believe me what a pos. We ran it for 2 years and that was enough I don't think we ran it a day with out going through 10 shear pins in the auger finally drilled the bushing and put a 1/4 bolt in it . It seemed like it was one think after another with it.The only thing it was good for was to nickel and dime you to death.
 
I had one used for half a season. Couldn't bale windows if they were heavy about 12x12 sized windrow was all it could handle. Sugar shear bolt would break if it got a slug of hay. When the knotters would trip if it took in hay at the same time it would bog down the engine and not the the knots. Took 6 hours to bale 200 bales. Hated that machine sold it for $400 and through in a bag of anger shear bolts. The one good thing is the engine had been rebuilt and started fairly easy.
 
Since there round bales in the back not square well rectangle (correct police &#128110;&#8205;&#9792;&#65039;) I wonder when it ran last
 
Give me an enging driven baler any day over a PTO unit. The engine first spoiled me against the PTO that followed. Engine baler was rated at less tons Per but at end of day had more in bale.
 
Those engines will start on first reve.Friend has one on an old street sweeper and as soon as he hits the starter it is running. Had the 2 cylinder on baler and first years had trpuble, after found out what to do started without any problems. They are not the problrm it is let on for people to belive,
 
Only once in a while ever sheared a pin. And for a 3 acre odd shaped patch you are not going to want to speed even if baler has way too much capacity.
 
That baler was made for a 25-35 horse tractor. Why would anybody even consider putting a 90 horse tractor on it?
 
2 cylinder engine had a spart arestor on them. And the AC pull type combines with an AC B tractor engine on them and never heard of one having a fire because of them, Newer self propelled a lot of them burnt, never one from the 40's.
 
Was the engine mounted on the baler or on a forecart? Those forcarts are built over here in Holmes county, Ohio.
 
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