Voltage regulators don"t last

Joe3253 · Jul 18, 2019

I have a 1953 Ford NAA. Have installed 3 new voltage regulators from different sources, polarized them and each worked perfect for anywhere from 2 to 10 hours and the battery stops charging. In the process I even swapped out the generator from my other working NAA and no difference. I've had this tractor for over 50 years and have totally rebuilt it myself all to original factory specs, so I'm not a novice at this and it's driving me crazy.

Does anyone know where I can get a 6 volt voltage regulator for this tractor of good quality that will last?

JD Seller · Jul 18, 2019

Joe your seeing the reason I have just about given up on generator systems. I have not found a good US made regulator in recent times. They all are cheap imported ones or even if say made in the US they are assembled here with China parts. Look for a "new" old stock OEM regulator. I have found some on EBay and Craigslist.

I know an alternators does not look anything like the original generator system but if your using the tractor you need it to keep the battery charged.

sunsettractor · Jul 18, 2019

I have been using Brillman for my electrical.
The premium USA made regulators I have purchased are much heavier than the average replacements, and last very well.
They are pricey compared to most, but they last.
One time They shipped one that didn't work out of the box, after a phone call with Mr Brillman himself, he sent another that works perfect, at no charge and payed
for return shipping as well, You don't see that very often.

Joe3253 · Jul 18, 2019

Thanks. I'll give it a try. Sick of the foreign crap I've found so far.

Mike M · Jul 18, 2019

Also make sure ALL the grounding contacts are clean of paint. Like all the contact points of the brackets to the engine block and the generator and where the regulator mounts.

Joe3253 · Jul 18, 2019

Thanks. I'll give it a try. Sick of the foreign crap I've found so far. Good to see that someone found something made in the good old U.S.A.

Joe3253 · Jul 18, 2019

Thanks. Been there done that all is as factory fresh. Thanks again for replying.

Bob Bancroft · Jul 18, 2019

A few years back, when I bought an AC D15II, I couldn't find an aftermarket VR with the same configuration. I didn't want to mess with the wires, so I got a VR from AGCO. It was very expensive, but by golly, it's still working! I must have gotten an old one!
I have no idea if you would have the same luck with OEM. Maybe that's one of your tries! But indeed, anything with contact points, for these older tractors, is not much good.

Joe3253 · Jul 18, 2019

I'll check it out. Might be worth the $$$.

bigbob1939 · Jul 18, 2019

Joe3253, I have a generator, regulator, 3 lights
that are left from a 12 volt conversion on a 601 I
would sell if you are interested. All worked fine when
removed, owner whated to go to 12 volts for better
lights.

Steve@Advance · Jul 18, 2019

Here's another solution.

Pricey I'm sure!
GenerNator

John T · Jul 18, 2019

You might try Jim at www.wiringharnesses.com

John T

wildsawmill · Jul 18, 2019

(quoted from post at 12:41:55 07/18/19) Also make sure ALL the grounding contacts are clean of paint. Like all the contact points of the brackets to the engine block and the generator and where the regulator mounts.

I would run a ground wire from regulator mounting to generator case & to battery.
I seen that be the problem several times before

tractorkrum · Jul 18, 2019

Was at The Red Power show a couple of weeks ago. Sat in a workshop put on by Rachel Gingell and her dad. The topic was generators, cutouts, regulators. Their recommendation was to use Standard brand parts.

rlp in Co. · Jul 18, 2019

I should design and build one. I didn't
know that they are now so unreliable. I
designed one for my Ford backhoe and it's
still working good after many years. I
didn't do it because I needed to; I did it
because I like electronics. It would be
just a little bit different than an
alternator. Now that I think about it the
same design would work, but instead of
regulating the power to the field, it would
regulate the power from the field to the
ground. It would substitute a n channel
mosfet for a p channel mosfet. It's almost
impossible to make electronics in the
United States anymore. Just look at the
volt/ohm meter that harbor freight gives
away for free!

JMOR · Jul 18, 2019

(quoted from post at 14:48:43 07/18/19) I have a 1953 Ford NAA. Have installed 3 new voltage regulators from different sources, polarized them and each worked perfect for anywhere from 2 to 10 hours and the battery stops charging. In the process I even swapped out the generator from my other working NAA and no difference. I've had this tractor for over 50 years and have totally rebuilt it myself all to original factory specs, so I'm not a novice at this and it's driving me crazy.

Does anyone know where I can get a 6 volt voltage regulator for this tractor of good quality that will last?

ince you said, "polarized the VR", I feel the need to say, be sure you are not polarizing incorrectly for your Type-B system, because if you jump Batt to Field WITH gen Field connected to generator, this will result in very excess current thru the VR field contacts! You are actually polarizing the generator & not the VR. Polarizing will NOT even be necessary next time you replace the VR.

Ultradog MN · Jul 18, 2019

Well said.
A 35 amp 10-SI can be bought for not much more than a Vreg. They came with a lifetime warranty. Yes you have to buy a battery too and they look different.
But they WORK!

Bret4207 · Jul 18, 2019

(quoted from post at 17:56:51 07/18/19)

(quoted from post at 14:48:43 07/18/19) I have a 1953 Ford NAA. Have installed 3 new voltage regulators from different sources, polarized them and each worked perfect for anywhere from 2 to 10 hours and the battery stops charging. In the process I even swapped out the generator from my other working NAA and no difference. I've had this tractor for over 50 years and have totally rebuilt it myself all to original factory specs, so I'm not a novice at this and it's driving me crazy.

Does anyone know where I can get a 6 volt voltage regulator for this tractor of good quality that will last?

Click to expand...

ince you said, "polarized the VR", I feel the need to say, be sure you are not polarizing incorrectly for your Type-B system, because if you jump Batt to Field WITH gen Field connected to generator, this will result in very excess current thru the VR field contacts! You are actually polarizing the generator & not the VR. Polarizing will NOT even be necessary next time you replace the VR.

That's about the very best image of how to polarize a gen I've seen yet. Thanks! I printed it out!

Geo-TH,In · Jul 18, 2019

Joe,
I was a happy camper when old voltage regulator were replaced with electronic regulators back in the
early 70's. (If my memory is correct).

Generators, points and condensers, and voltage regulators were replaced decades ago. Prone to failure.

Put a 12v alternator on tractor and forget fighting old school technology.

JMOR · Jul 18, 2019

(quoted from post at 17:30:30 07/18/19)

(quoted from post at 17:56:51 07/18/19)

(quoted from post at 14:48:43 07/18/19) I have a 1953 Ford NAA. Have installed 3 new voltage regulators from different sources, polarized them and each worked perfect for anywhere from 2 to 10 hours and the battery stops charging. In the process I even swapped out the generator from my other working NAA and no difference. I've had this tractor for over 50 years and have totally rebuilt it myself all to original factory specs, so I'm not a novice at this and it's driving me crazy.

Does anyone know where I can get a 6 volt voltage regulator for this tractor of good quality that will last?

Click to expand...

ince you said, "polarized the VR", I feel the need to say, be sure you are not polarizing incorrectly for your Type-B system, because if you jump Batt to Field WITH gen Field connected to generator, this will result in very excess current thru the VR field contacts! You are actually polarizing the generator & not the VR. Polarizing will NOT even be necessary next time you replace the VR.

Click to expand...

That's about the very best image of how to polarize a gen I've seen yet. Thanks! I printed it out!

hank you! I 'stole' it, modified it, added to it, to suit myself and hopefully make the procedure clear for others.

JDEM · Jul 18, 2019

I went through the same thing when I was working on my Ferguson TO35. First two regulators were horrible. 1st bad one came from Ebay. 2nd bad
came from here at YT Tractor. I called and complained about how bad the quality was of the points and relays. The guy one the phone told me
YT had many such complaints and he sent me out a different one. The new one he sent worked very well. It came from A&I. I knew even when I
first looked at it that they must of done something better because it at least had some weight to it.

Too bad there was not such a thing as a cheap electronic regulator for these older generators but there is not. I guess because unlike for
an alternator, a regulator for a generator has to carry all the charge current. Regulator for an alternator does not so it can be small,
simple, and cheap.

pete 23 · Jul 18, 2019

Two things here. Polarizing the generator like another poster pointed out. Ford normally did
things opposite of everyone else years ago. Just the way it was. So be certain you are polarizing
correctly.

Second thing is, when regulator quits working, what do the points look like. Are they burned
blue, just pitted excessively or are some windings blackened from over heating.

I well know most new regulators are junk but it is usually due to poor material in points. Years
ago, the positive point was a different material from the negative point. Now day, they make them
to use on either pos or neg ground so material is same on both points. Can't change that of
course.
But, on the other hand, a lot of generators are mismatched so excessive field current is flowing
through the points and no point will last if that is the case. Lot of generators that are rebuilt
have field coils passing too much current. They again are universal, work for all . Problem is
they don't. An old system that had a high low charge setting on the light switch for example,
flowed considerable more field current than fields made for vibrating voltage regulation.

I would check field current flow through known good dependable generator compared to this
troublesome one if I was working on it.

504 · Jul 18, 2019

I had some bad regulators on a 66 Dodge,the problem turned out to be loose wires on the Amp meter. I titgen the leads to the meter and never had any more trouble.

Hobo,NC · Jul 18, 2019

Harley came out with one for there generators I installed them on all I worked on that had a generator... I don't remember if they were a A are a B I think they were a B...

https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...jsCtsvT7n1S9Vwf49yNB3oK_DtcDfvuhoC_g8QAvD_BwE

Traditional Farmer · Jul 18, 2019

The one wire alternators have ended the generator/regulator Nightmare for me,life is much better now.

Voltage regulators don"t last

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