- Thread starter TDJD
- Start date
Kansas4010
Well-known Member
I was just going to suggest the same thing. I think they're around $20.
Thankfully, a 24T isn't real "wide" when the hitch is in "TOW" position, and they tow nicely.
Hopefully, the route isn't too rough/full of potholes, as a baler sure takes a beating when bumped down the road.
Might want to block up the inboard/unsupported end of the feed auger, as they will really flop and twist on a rough road.
Also would be a good idea to lock the pickup lift lever in place with a bolt (if possible), or chain or otherwise secure it so the lever can't shake and unlatch and drop the pickup.
I drag equipment that far and farther several times a year I drill a hole in the dust caps on the hubs if there isn?t already a zerk I?m em grease em good and go usually run about 45 mph . I have some magnetic lights that I put on and then I also have a big flashing light I put on the roof
Before you so much as move it a foot grease the wheel bearings. Learned that the hard way on a 14T and almost had a wheel fall off due to the bearing being dry and got hot and smoked the bearings. Ever since then before O tow something I check wheel bearings since many years of being used also means good chance they have not been grease very often
jon f mn
Well-known Member
Grease the bearings and bring at least 2 spares. If you bring spares you won't need them, if not you will need them. I pulled a case baler about 300 miles and a pull type combine 150 with no issues. When I was younger my brother and I did much worse. The bearings in the baler are likely better than what would be in a trailer anyway, the tires will be the worst part. The lights idea is a better idea than smv.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Evidently you've never loaded a small sq baler on a trailer. You get it on a trailer then you'll need an over width permit to be legal.
I'd tow it before attempting to load it. But then back in the day I towed many pieces of farm equipment including a 27' tandem over 225 miles.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
PS: SMV is illegal in most states if towing exceeds 25 MPH
I've towed a 24T around 60 miles to the farm. Tires/rims are different between pickup side and plunger side on a 24T, so you would need the two different kinds to be safe. And yes, you will probably not need them. I normally bring along my pancake air compressor to fill a tire if it's starting to go flat en route. I'd try to avoid a large city if possible. I usually keep an eye on the traffic behind me and pull over to let folks by if they start to pile up. If you're lucky the route will have wide shoulders and you can give folks a little room to pass.
Now a two row corn picker is a different animal...Done that already and have another 120 mile tow coming up that will be fun.
Now a two row corn picker is a different animal...Done that already and have another 120 mile tow coming up that will be fun.
37chief
Well-known Member
- Location
- California
You might time the trip near the cities when the traffic is not too heave. Stan
Bruce from Can.
Well-known Member
- Location
- Woodville, Ontario, Canada
One major concern I?d have is tires! Tires get hot wear fast, and hot old tires can blow. As Jon says take spares, or put on new tires if tires look old. Balers tow good, and going that distance, after a while you will start to speed up. The faster you go, the hotter the tires will get.
I sold a 24T to a guy a few years back. He brought a car hauler trailer and asked me to lift the baler onto it. Being the seller, I made sure I had the cash in my pocket before I started lifting the baler, just in case it became a pretzel. It fit the trailer pretty well, and he was able to chain it down and travel fairly normal speeds. he had about a 65 mile ride with it. Food for thought.
Mac AR
Member
- Location
- The Hills of Home - The Ozarks
I towed my NH 273 about 50 miles when I bought it. I made sure it was greased good like everyone said, and I had 2 extra tires in the back of the truck. It had an SMV triangle on it, but I went ahead and put magnetic flashers on it too. I kept my speed around 45 to 50 mph. The only concern I had was stopping, since we have some good hills here, but even that turned out to be a non-issue. It's a good idea to take a friend with you so they can help watch traffic, mailboxes, and tires. Also nice having help hooking up. You'll be fine if you're careful and come prepared.
Mac
Mac
rlp in Co.
Well-known Member
Take 4 lane whys if possible. People get fustrated behind slow vehicles and pass on hills and do stupid stuff on 2 lane roads.
tomstractorsandtoys
Well-known Member
A 24t will back right onto a standard trailer and not be an oversized load. A 14t will not as the right tire stickes out wider than the pickup. Hauled lots of them but would not be afraid to tow it that far either. You will need a 4 lug rim for the pickup side and a six lug spare for the other. I pulled a grain dryer 200 miles one night,even went thru Ceder Rapids Iowa just had a set of magnetic flashers stuck on it. A strap or block on the auger to keep it from flopping is not a bad idea either. Tom
Traditional Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Virginia
I've pulled a couple balers over 150 miles, no problem really but as others said make sure you have some spares.
john in la
Well-known Member
I will not advise you on what to do because I do not know these laws for your state.
I will advise you to check with your local DOT and here is why.
The YT DOT has informed you that that all implements of husbandry need a SMV sign.
They also told you that this sign limits your speed to 25 mph.
And these are true.
But did anyone mention the "speed identification symbol (sis) sign" that some states require and allows you to travel between 25 and 40 mph??
I will advise you to check with your local DOT and here is why.
The YT DOT has informed you that that all implements of husbandry need a SMV sign.
They also told you that this sign limits your speed to 25 mph.
And these are true.
But did anyone mention the "speed identification symbol (sis) sign" that some states require and allows you to travel between 25 and 40 mph??
Grand Rapids, MI is not exactly a small rural town, isn't it around 200,000 or 250,000 people? Driving cross town could be 15 to 25 miles of in-town roads. I would try to drive around the city rather than thru the center of town. Try to stay out of the city limits because you might have trouble keeping the baler within your lane on an older four lane street. Will the bale chute extend far enough back to require a flag or a light?
showcrop
Well-known Member
On most of the country's roads the laws are enforced by the state DOT agencies as opposed to the YTDOT. That is why when I bought my baler 173 miles away I called the state DOT and asked them what I needed to do. They sent me an over-width permit which gave me all the requirements. My baler was only eight years old at that time so tires weren't an issue. I followed the route that they gave me which was mostly interstate, despite the signs on the entry ramps that say no farm equipment, and stopped every 35 miles or so to check things out. So little drama, sorry.
Tony in SD
Well-known Member
Put it on a trailer and haul it
onefarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- 6735 S Lowell Rd, St Johns, Mi 48879
Personally I'd skirt around the edges of GR not thru the center of it. But I'd hook on and tow it. Get some magnetic lights and a smv sign. Check the bearings and tires and be prepared for a flat. If possible go on a Sunday morning when it's less busy.
Used to, do not know if still do. Pluged into the trailer light socket, but they were wired backward.. Had 2 sets like that. Your stop-turn signal part of the light is supposed to be brighter than the tail light part, same as on your truck so they can be sen at night. What I got from them the tail light was the brightest part and impossible to see the stop-turn part of the light if vehical lights were on. Easy job to take lights apart and switch wires to get the stop-turn part visibal over the tail light part. If they still sell them they might have corrected that flaw but night not so before you head out with a set check to be sure wired correctly. I had my truck set up with the 4 counductor plug, the 6 connector also plus the 7 connector plug. So with that setup I could put them on implement on trailer where they could be seen but if the implement blocked trailer lights from being seen you still had lights. And I see trucks with multiple lights on so don't think there is a limit as to how many rear lights you are allowed.
K Effective
Well-known Member
I pulled my 336 baler home about 35 miles, aired the tires up right and packed the wheel bearings. The hitch was the worst part- only one truck hitch insert would line up with the baler hitch, and had to remove the old, rusty ball to use that one. Take some stuff to secure the PTO shaft or remove it.
The Interstate system in Grand Rapids is half shut down right now anyway, so plan a route around town and take your time. A spotter is helpful, even a chase car if you have help. Good luck, we're all counting on you.
The Interstate system in Grand Rapids is half shut down right now anyway, so plan a route around town and take your time. A spotter is helpful, even a chase car if you have help. Good luck, we're all counting on you.
Destroked 450
Well-known Member
- Location
- Harned, Ky
Pulled my round baler 300 miles home when I bought it thru In and Ky.
Make sure it has good tires and plenty of grease in the hub bearings.
A set of lights on the back connected to the trucks trailer plug is best.
Skirt around any large towns and stay off of interstates.
We started off at 40- 45 mph to see how it handled but most of the trip was at 50-55 mph.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
I pulled a round baler 65 miles and avoided metro areas....little longer but worth the lack of hassle. Baler was wide with short wheelbase making for anything would get it to oscillating so speed was less than 20. You can do it, just make up your mind it's going to take awhile and get after it. Agree a set of lights on the baler would be necessary considering your potential task.....don't forget the slow moving emblem, and it's 25 mph max speed.
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
OK, now you have a whole lot of answers, many conflicting.
The thing to do is to call your state's DOT and see what your options and limitations are ACCORDING TO THE AUTHORITIES!!!!!!!!!
Advice you get here is worth exactly what you paid for it. Do it right.
The thing to do is to call your state's DOT and see what your options and limitations are ACCORDING TO THE AUTHORITIES!!!!!!!!!
Advice you get here is worth exactly what you paid for it. Do it right.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Please explain how to easily put a small sq baler that has a 8' 10'' width on a 8' trailer. Yes I realize one might put it on trailer at an angle. That sounds about as much fun as attempting to put 6#s of fresh cow manure in a sack designed to hold 5#!
I did it old school with a 7' wide trailer. Let one side drop on the baler's frame with the wheel hanging over the edge then took the tire off on the knotter side to make it sit lower and boomed it down tight. The knotter side weighed about 3X what the pickup side weighed and the trailer didn't trail worth a d****. Top speed was 45 - but without the trailer it probably would have been about 25 mph.
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
Well as soon as you load it you will be an over size load. Now you need a permit flags signs and all the window dressing. If you just pull it you can do that with no problems. I live in MI also and was a motor carrier for many years. I would just take a couple spares heavier ones for the chamber side and go. 85 miles is not that far. Bearings are up to your comfort zone. I would just take the cap off put some Trans mission oil in and go. Oil will help soften any grease in there and keep them oiled.
SV is right about the Over size if loaded. If you stay off the interstate nobody will bother you. Earlier with the high temps will be better.
SV is right about the Over size if loaded. If you stay off the interstate nobody will bother you. Earlier with the high temps will be better.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
I remember loading a JD 55 combine on a roll back 2 ton truck in summer of '70. Acquiring over width/height permit from state. Hauled combine through an adjoining town following state described route. Christmas light decorations started popping similar to fireworks. Business owners came out in the street shaking their fingers at me. Finally arrived at a town 25 miles to the south following designated route then encounter a railroad overpass combine wouldn't go under. Ended up unloading combine & driving it the rest of the way to new owners farm.
wildsawmill
Member
I have towed 14 T a lot use car tires, grease bearing s and go . hy patrol usely waves as I go by
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
Showcrop You are right. That is why I would just pull it and avoid the interstate. Loaded will have a route from the state on it you must follow.
wildsawmill
Member
On a trailer you are in the over with category
Pulling a bailer your in the farmer category a lot of leeway
I pulled a 14 T over a 100 miles at 50- 60 mph on 2 lane nice hwy with car tires on bailer
Pulling a bailer your in the farmer category a lot of leeway
I pulled a 14 T over a 100 miles at 50- 60 mph on 2 lane nice hwy with car tires on bailer
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