Repairing Cross Valve on Farmhand Loader?

I have a new to me IH 454 with Farmhand (Dunham Lehr) 22C loader. Well after the first time I used the bucket I started having problems with bucket tilt. Checked QD s, just replaced one that was rusty and hard to disconnect. Thought maybe the cylinder was bad based on research, but I tried switching the QD s to test and lo and behold my loader arms didn t want to work. Guess that means I have a control valve problem?

If I use the valve it tries to work, it may curl the bucket a couple inches. When switched QD to loader arms they tried to move but couldn t really.

Looks like this loader has a Cross brand valve. I ve read on here about taking the caps off to take a look. Not too sure what I d be looking for. Has anyone repaired these? Tried looking for a YouTube video with no success.

Also on the other loader arm valve I haven t been able to get it into float mode... wonder if that is related? Thanks for any input.

Shure hoses aren't crossed.Is it on closed or open center system? Not all valves have float in them. May have power beyond plug in it. Not much of anything in them other than relief valve, some don't even have that.

Make SURE you don't have hydraulic lines crossed between the two circuits.

Quick disconnects can be quirky.

Before condemning the valve I would temporarily replace the quick disconnects with threaded couplings and swivels.

If the problem actually IS in the valve, likely, there's nothing to be done short of replacing the valve.

The spools are a selective, precision fit in the bores, and, typically, no internal parts are available.

It's RARE to have such a valve fail, the two that I can remember dealing with had either a crack or other internal porosity between oil channels.

Look at your valve> If both spools are the same length it does not have float. The last place to look for problems is in the valve. Check your quick couplers and to eliminate them hook the hoses up direct.

Just to be clear on the whole thing. The way I read this you are talking singular in the quick disconnects. Where are the quick disconnects? I would expect supply and return between the tractor and valve, if there are only two QDs. Does your loader have single or double acting cylinders? If so single acting cylinders would have one for lift and one for the bucket curl/rollback, if they are single acting cylinders. Double acting cylinders should have 4 disconnects between the valve and the cylinders, if they are in the cylinder hoses.

The 22C loader shown in the on line AGCO parts book is double acting cylinders. If that is what you have, you would need to swap both cylinder hoses from the bucket spool to the loader arm/lift/boom valve spool to check cylinder function. Swapping just one on a double acting cylinder won't work. Swapping/reversing the supply and return hoses will likely stop everything from working.

Clearly I m a newbie at all this, lol. My previous tractor, a David Brown, only had a tip bucket, not a proper loader.

I must have switched the wrong things, oops. Sorry for my idiocy. I try to look up videos for what I read on trouble shooting but haven t been having luck. There are only two QD s. I think it is double acting? It is the 22c on Agco s site. It has the two lift arms and just one curl cylinder. Everything worked when I first got it then I tried to do some backdragging dirt and the next day it eventually stopped curling after repeatedly uncurling while I was out mowing. It is supposed to have float, I got a manual and it describes how to make it float (push all the way forward). I had read sometimes some rust in the cap can make it not go into float.

As for the curl, so it probably is the cylinder then? It is floppy which on another thread said that may be a piston loose. I had ordered a seal kit for the cylinder when this first started. I was going to attempt to take it off and take it to a hydraulic shop (bolts are super rusty, have sprayed with PB blaster).

Sorry I m so clueless, having to learn on the fly here. Thank you for all the help before I really break my new tractor, d oh![/img]

A double acting cylinder will have a hose or tube to both ends of the cylinder barrel. Depending on the action you want (lift, lower, dump, curl) pressurized oil is directed to one end or the other by the valve and at the same time the valve provides a clear path for the oil from the opposite end to return to the reservoir. Float position in the valve opens both ends of the cylinder to the reservoir. It is common, but not required, for double acting loader cylinders to have a valve with a float position.

A single acting cylinder will normally have a hose or tube to only one end of the cylinder barrel. The valve supplies oil to the end of the cylinder with a hose to move it, the other end may have an atmospheric vent or not, depending on how it is built. Gravity or weight moves the arms/bucket/etc. in the other direction when single acting cylinders are used. HTH

Are the hoses that go out to your cylinders connected directly (either threaded in or attached to threaded adaptor fittings) into the valve?

That is very helpful info, thank you. The curl one is definitely double then, there is a hose at each end. (I was trying to get them off the other day, but the fittings are terribly rusted. Even spraying PB blaster for multiple days isn t helping, was going to try a ball pein. I haven t looked as closely at the lift ones.

There are four lines that come out the top of the valve, connected directly. Kind of rusty but not as bad as the cylinder fittings. Will not be easy to swap though (am guessing that is what I was supposed to swap). Then there are the two that have the QD s, sounded like those two are the supply/return. It s the kind with two handles, not a joystick.

The four hoses coming out of the top of the valve would be: two for the bucket cylinder and two for the lift cylinders. The hoses for each will be in line with the respective spool. Both functions are double acting , evidenced by the two hoses on each spool. (The hoses to the lift cylinders will be teed somewhere to supply both lift cylinders.) Yes, those are the ones you were supposed to swap. And you would need to swap both hoses on each spool, on just one hose from each.

Do you have swivels on the ends of the hoses, or fittings with swivels the hoses connect to? Post photos of the hoses ends if you don't know and someone can help point things out to you.

Sounds like crossed hoses,if thats the problem
,when you get them corrected clean them well and
either paint every male and female coupler a
diffrent color or use colored zipties. Then its
hook yellow to yellow,red to red,green to green,
blue to blue

I believe you only swapped the supply and return hoses and have them back as they were originally. If you have all the hoses you swapped back where they were when it was working originally; proceed with the rebuild of the bucket cylinder; as was suggested to you in your original post about this problem. Do that before swapping any other hoses around. Color coding the hoses is a good idea for future reference.

Thank you for all the info. At least I have learned a little more about how all this stuff works. Yes everything is back to original. That is a good idea about color coding. Those hoses are pretty weather worn so would be good to replace when I can, will definitely make sure to color code then.

Back to square 2, removing the cylinder (square 1 was uncooperative QDs). Wire brushed all the fittings, yet more penetrating oil, and going to try hammer tapping. Fittings are crazy rusty. My seal kit has arrived so this bugger better come off!

Thanks again to all for the help and suggestions. Once I get this bucket figured out then I can go back to figuring out why my valve will not float as it is supposed to. One thing at a time.