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Internal Solenoid 1947 6v starter Question

F

FarmIT

New User
Recently came in the possesion of a 1947 MD IH 04, ran when I got it but cranked slow and unreliably.
Now it will not start? Just cracks like I'm welding when I try the start switch.
I cleaned all the contacts and grounds, I tried a new switch and replaced cables.
Now my attention is turning to the Starter, I noticed it must have an Internal solenoid.
Please let me know if Y'all have any Ideas for me?!

Thanks,
George
 
Do I understand correctly that it is an IH McCormick Farmall MD? The kind that starts on gas and switches to diesel? If so, maybe you forgot to place the "switch-over" lever into start position to release compression for starting? If it is still in the diesel mode, the starter may be trying to crank against the diesel compression and that can be a major (probably impossible) load for a worn out 6 volt starter that is only intended to crank a low compression gas engine.
 
If it is indeed a MD it was 12 volt new. Or ours was. They had 2 6 volt batteries one under the fuel tank and one beside the seat on the right side. We change ours over to one big 12 volt. That would be the biggest problem would be trying to start with 6 volt on a 12 volt system as well as the compression lever still in diesel mode.
 
Good to know, Thanks OLD! Well I got a starter on the way, I did notice the terminal at the starter got hot with my couple repeated 1 second presses.
 
I think my brother in law might have tried to start it with a 12 volt Grr..Thanks for the advice!
 
I assume the starter is a 30MT Delco? New solenoid that is bolted to the starter is cheap
cvphoto26898.jpg
 
I just noticed the "6 volts" you put in the post. If an MD, seems it ought to have a 12 volt 30MT starter. Delco # 1113057 or 1108913.
Solenoid attached to the starter housing. Note it can draw 670 amps so needs a solenoid in good shape.
 
I see you have a starter on the way, so no need going down that troubleshooting road.

When you stated "Now it will not start? Just cracks like I'm welding when I try the start switch. I cleaned all the contacts and grounds, I tried a new switch and replaced cables." You have already done some of what I typically suggest, but FYI when I hear cracks like welding the things that come to mind are:

1) Remove, clean and wire brush bright n shiny and inspect each and every battery and starter and switch/solenoid and ground cable connections...?.

2) Insure the battery is good and its full charged...

3) Insure the starter drive isn't stuck/jammed into the flywheel.

4) Check for excess voltage drop across bad burned pitted contacts in a solenoid or push switch.....

So often its just simply the battery is weak or there's a bad cable or battery post or ground connection. Look for sizzling or burning or overheating in any of them.

John T
 
No solenoid I guess, OLD say's it is a spinup so starter is one of these 2 bolt:
Case 63608D
Delco 10461696, 1107427, 1107448
IMI Hi Torque IMI302-005
International Harvester 104219A2, 997870R91
Lester 4132
Wilson 91-01-3639
 
I will check out if it is stuck, I still have the new Napa switch on it and brand new 1/0 $$ cables, very shiny! Thanks!
 
those tractors have no solenoid. it is just a push button start switch. pretty sure your Bendix in the starter is stuck in the flywheel. loosen starter bolts and wiggle starter. then try it again. your drawing heavy amps trying the starter that is what the crackling noise is like a loose connection . are the battery posts cleaned and tight??. it is a major job to get those starters out also.
 
(quoted from post at 17:19:55 06/19/19) those tractors have no solenoid. it is just a push button start switch. pretty sure your Bendix in the starter is stuck in the flywheel. loosen starter bolts and wiggle starter. then try it again. your drawing heavy amps trying the starter that is what the crackling noise is like a loose connection . are the battery posts cleaned and tight??. it is a major job to get those starters out also.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rustered! yes very clean very tight..Well I got the starter partially out and stuck it back in, bendix felt retracted. I then "jumped it" with a big screw driver and it turned right over fast. You are right about that, probably have to remove the roller pto housing top. Glad it's not the starter groan. Now I have a backup starter...
I then went back to the switch it turned over but it turned once and very slow and then, no go again.
There is a third 14 ish guage corroded wire on the top of the two post switch that goes to the battery and starter. It shares the post with the 1/0 wire to the starter. Judging by the diagram, goes thru the neg side of the Ammeter to the middle post of the 3 post voltage regulator:Hmm voltage regulator? This wire was really corroded what does this wire do except report voltage to the ammeter?
 
sounds like your bendex is toast. it relies on the flywheel to kick it out once engine starts. yes need to remove belt pulley to get starter out. that would be the charge line to the battery.
 
Hope not! But I fear you might be right..I'll try and jump it with the big Screwdriver again tomorrow to confirm.
I dont suppose there are any shorter gear reduction type starters with the same two hole format?

Thanks!
 
Thank's!, Got it done and it ran sweet until I heard a weird sound of the starter still engaged. The starter I got off ebay was 1/4 longer than the one I took out. A thick back Delco. I Hammered it in carefully. Do not know how, What a B. Gonna be fun to take out..
 
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