Fergy wont run...

Hi all,
I picked up a Fergy 28 awhile ago, and I finally got it running(after not for 9 months), and it ran OK, but a bit sputtery, but had enough power. Clutch was seized so would have to bump it into gear. I split the tractor, and replaced the clutch, and now it wont really run. I blew out the carb and fuel line, it has a good flow now, but it will only run at idle if you crank it enough. Try to gun the throttle and it dies with a sort of a sucking sound. I tried swapping the dizzy cap with no difference, only a good amount of missing and backfiring.
Any ideas? It was a boat tractor.
I am talking about The Grey Fergy - the purple one came with it - not running.
Thanks in advance!
Joshua
cvphoto26729.jpg


cvphoto26730.jpg


cvphoto26731.jpg


cvphoto26734.jpg


cvphoto26735.jpg


cvphoto26736.jpg
 
Sounds like your dirt went from the tank and line to the carb. Or you bumped the timing (dist) while working changing the clutch.
 
Check the spark. A weak spark will fire the plugs at idle but not at full throttle. A good spark will start that engine within a single turn of the crankshaft.
 
First thing I would try is opening up the carburetor adjustments, sounds like it's running too lean, possibly some dirt in a small passage. Sometimes opening up the adjustment will allow the dirt to pass through. It's worth a try, doesn't cost anything, I always try the cheapest things first when troubleshooting.
 
Check the points, check the gap. Look for side play in the distributor shaft. If worn, the points will do strange things, close up under different RPM's.

Does a partial choke help?

If so, it's too lean. Could be water in the carb, partially clogged main circuit.

Pull the carb drain plug, catch what comes out. If dirty, rust chunks, water, that's what's in the tank and in the carb.

Check for sufficient flow. Should get a steady stream, not a drip or the flow stop. If so, there is a restriction, clogged screen, clogged fuel valve. Most have a screen in the inlet elbow at the carb.

A simple test, with the ignition off, air intake hose disconnected, hold your hand tightly over the carb air intake, crank the engine through. You should get a strong, steady vacuum, and a hand wet with gas. If intermittent or no vacuum, there is a valve problem. If no gas, there is a lack of fuel problem.
 
Hi, when we had Fergys on our farm we changed anything electrical that was British (Lucas) to something American. That British stuff was dynmite to go wrong. My dad was an independant dealer. Ed Will Oliver Bc
 
It came as a free tractor along with the grey one. Still not running, may never as I have a large demand for the parts. It looks neat though, and the front end is virtually rust free, and the rear has heavy rust.
 
There is actually a good supply of parts available though Sparex NZ. Not sure what is wrong, but I haven't spent much time on it. Also I would have to buy some rear wheels for it as these rears are sold but not picked up yet. Apparently was running, and the hydraulics are seized up. There is a huge demand for Fergy parts so if I cant get it going quickly it goes to pieces that I ship nationwide to help other fergys get going again. Just bought another Fergy yesterday that is missing the rear wheels also for $40!
 
No, choke doesn't help. Will check the points later hopefully that will fix that. Yes it does have extreme suction and some gas pours out if it is held on too long. Thanks for all the help!
 
Distributor is rusted in one position, so I cant change timing if I wanted to! Yes I had to clear the fuel line and carb. Thanks for that!
 
Sorta like N Fords here,lots of em. We are thinking about painting a 8n pink and gray for my wife....cool to see that off color one!
 
Engine Firing order...1-3-4-2

Inlet Valve rocker set .020 Inch
Exhaust Valve rocker set .022 Inch

Spark Plug Gap .030-.032

Breaker point gap .010-.012

Inspect Valve as per pictures and info:

Faulty Air Breather Valve can cause Tractor to operate poorly:

Bob...Owner operator Ferguson TEA-20
cvphoto26848.jpg


cvphoto26849.jpg


cvphoto26850.jpg


cvphoto26851.jpg


cvphoto26852.jpg


cvphoto26853.jpg


cvphoto26854.jpg


cvphoto26855.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 16:17:33 06/18/19) No, choke doesn't help. Will check the points later hopefully that will fix that. Yes it does have extreme suction and some gas pours out if it is held on too long. Thanks for all the help!

It is normal for gas to pour out of an updraft carburetor intake if it doesn't start. All that gas in the manifold drops.
 
"Previous Owner Syndrome"....Most TEA-20's that I have worked on and now own were owned and operated by individuals who seemed to refuse to own and read a service manual..

Here is an example of poor acceleration and NO lugging characteristics...


Bob...Owner TEA-20
cvphoto26889.jpg


cvphoto26890.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 08:48:17 06/19/19) "Previous Owner Syndrome"....Most TEA-20's that I have worked on and now own were owned and operated by individuals who seemed to refuse to own and read a service manual..

Here is an example of poor acceleration and NO lugging characteristics...


Bob...Owner TEA-20
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto26889.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto26890.jpg">


Bob, What's the matter with that? Is it the wrong stretch rated baling wire?
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top