Smoking 8n issues

grandpa Love · Jun 15, 2019

Key switch was having issues,you could jiggle it while pressing the start button and it would crank up. Well that stopped working so I got a wire with clips on it and put on on the each side of switch. No go. Left one on solenoid side and moved other one to the out side of ceramic resistor. Fired right up. Drove it around for 2-3 minutes and it back fired a couple times ,ran real rough for 15-20 seconds then died like switch was turned off. Will not be start. Power to coil...... haven't dug deeper. What's chance I fried something by passing that resistor? 49 front mount distributor,12 volt.fuel flow is good out carb plug. The front distributor is new to me. Will tackle it tomorrow afternoon......then on to the new 8n on the trailer.......

Ken(Ark) · Jun 15, 2019

What's chance I fried something by passing that resistor? 49 front mount distributor,12 volt.

Those front mount coils are the weakest link in the ignition system . Usually when get fried and then cool off , they fire up for a few minutes , then fail again .

fixerupper · Jun 15, 2019

Check the points too.

Ultradog MN · Jun 15, 2019

Most of the Ns, for all their usefulness,
had a darned points system that requires frequent maintenance. Couple that with their goofy front mount distributer and you'll find men who kneel aside their Ford more often than they do in church.
The later side mount distributer models were better.

agjim · Jun 16, 2019

I'd vote coil too. For long-time, trouble-free service I'd convert the
system to use a coil like your 640 uses. They are cheaper and more
reliable.

GEO-TH, In · Jun 16, 2019

Recently installed points in Jubilee. I
dry timed it with ohmmeter. Come to find
out the points were closed, yet ohmmeter
indicated they were open.

Emery cloth to the rescue. New points
made contact.

Flywheel was set where spark was to be
delivered. Can't remember what the
degrees was. Rotated distributor until
points opened.

Put it back together. Checked with
timing light. Dry timing was spot on.

grandpa Love · Jun 16, 2019

Jim, I will have to call you and get you to talk me through the switch...

Steve@Advance · Jun 16, 2019

Just in case you haven't had the joy of working on that...

The distributor is easily removed, and will only go back on one way, so you can't get it out of time.

Take it off, repair it, then wire it up and bench test it.

Much easier than trying to do anything to it installed!

Leroy · Jun 16, 2019

Never had coil problems on the 2N Dad bought new in May of 44 and still have, very few point problems either. Still have that tractor. The most ignation problems have came from that resister to cut the 6 volt to 4.4 volts. Not enough power to run on. Ran 8 volt batteries for years in both this ford, a 41 9N and a 50 International truck to get enough power for the ignation. That 8 volt gave enough voltage for what it needed. And both IHC, the 41 Farmall H and the 49 John Deere B both on 6 volts never had a resistor to cut voltage. Am now using 6 volt again as I could not get the 8 volt but the resistor is bypassed and no problems. That resistor got like it was just turning the key off to shut off and mahbe would restart that day, perhaps next day. changed severak key switches thinking that was the problem before I finally bypassed that resistor and then no more problems. But your 12 volt battery had too many volts and that is the problem, stick with a 6 volt same as your other tractors are supposed to have. I think a 12 volt battery could blow that resistor as it would be putting around 9 volts to the points.

Leroy · Jun 16, 2019

Should have added that the coil was changed a couple of times thinking it was the coil before I found that resistor hidden under the hood back by the guages. Bypass it and put in 6 volt and I think your problems will be gone.

Leroy · Jun 16, 2019

Just a word of caution in takink the distributor off. DO NOT USE A LONGER BOLT OR DROP THE LOCK WASHER. doing so will make the bolt hit the timing gear. Had that on the 9N and was told by mechanicks it was wristpin noise but turned out it was the wrong too long a bolt and cut a grove in the timing gear. Yes harder to get to to work on but not a bad setup. Ended up rebuilding the engine but it needed it but did not get the rebuild done before bad ice storm in o5 and it is not yet rebuilt.

Ken(Ark) · Jun 16, 2019

The distributor is easily removed, and will only go back on one way, so you can't get it out of time.

My Brother in Law said "Hey , Ken , I can't get the distributor cap to go back on " . He got it 180 degrees out , tightened the bolts since it was close , and pushed the shaft / rotor out 1/4" .

The cam slot and the distributor tab were worn and had a sloppy fit but it easily slipped in when it was lined up correctly , not so much when it was 180 out .

oldsarge · Jun 16, 2019

And that will burn out your coil.Henry put that resistor in for a reason!!!! If you must,put in a start/run switch that bypasses the resistor in start position.(same '44 for 75 years,after Dad,it's been mine for 30 years)

Leroy · Jun 16, 2019

Why would it burn out the coil on the Ford running it the same as the coil on the Deere or Farmall, no body wants to address that little fact because they don't seem to understand it works. That low voltage to all the Ford cars that was done on also had starting problems as I understand it. What except the shape of the coil makes it do that and putting the round coil off a 600 series you could be using the exact same coil as the Deere or Farmall. Not every thing that was done at any time has worked the way it was thought to do when designed.

Smoking 8n issues

grandpa Love

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Ken(Ark)

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fixerupper

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Ultradog MN

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agjim

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GEO-TH, In

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grandpa Love

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Steve@Advance

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Leroy

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Leroy

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Leroy

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Ken(Ark)

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oldsarge

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Leroy

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