UPDATE: Back out working on the WD front hubs.

Will Herring

Well-known Member
Finally got back out to the WD today. Started to clean up all of the inside of the hub assembly. Here's the spindle itself. It looks like the threads are almost toast on the end, and almost like the cotter pin slot is wallered out (wonder if the hub slamming in and out started to beat the castle nut sideways against the tip?). I assume the little flat washer and spacer should be able to come off the spindle, right? They seem on there solid.

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So cleaned up the hub cap side of the hub... It didn't seem to be in too bad of shape. However, the bearing I pulled out of here seems to have a lot of play in it as I spin it. Definitely heavily worn.

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Then I cleaned up the big side of the hub... This is where it gets fun. What do you see?

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Do you see it? There's literally three giant cracks in the bearing race. Probably blown all the way through, I haven't tried to punch them out yet. Here's a better pic:

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Also, somebody asked about the farmer fix hub cap... Apparently after the end was sliced through, it was welded up "to make it hold grease again", but whether the bearings or races were replaced at that point, I have no idea. But I'm starting to see where there were 4 shims inside the hub.

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Anybody have any thoughts on what my next step should be? I've got new bearings and races to install in the hub. Not sure what to do about the worn out threads on the spindle tip though.
 
Considering all the WD front ends in junk yards, etc., I"d find a new spindle. Aren"t they pinned into the center casting? Or you could just switch the pair as a unit. Those threads look extremely worn, likely not to hold tight.
 
Straighten what threads you have with a thread chaser. This site has replacement bearings, seals, hubcap and a magic item you need called a wheel clamp nut. I do not see
allis listed but sizes are listed as 5/8, 3/4, 7/8 and 1 inch these are fine thread and one of them should be the size you need. As far as the washer and spacer you
mentioned, I believe what you called a spacer is part of the spindle and is where the inner bearing race rides. If the washer is the same on the other side it is a shield
to keep large items from damaging the seal. This is my opinion only by looking at your pictures and I may stand corrected by others input. Leroy
 
I agree!

You can either spend the time and money to do it right the first time, or find the time and money to do it again, later!
 
Ok. What your calling a spacer is not a spacer at all. That is the way the spindle is machined. Now for the threads you can do one of two things. This will sound crewd but I have
done both with complete success.
1) cut all the threads off. Then cut the head off a bolt of similer size, grind it to a point and weld it on. If you think about it, it really doesn't take much to hold a front
wheel on a WD.
2) grind the mushroom off your threads to where you can get your nut started. Then put it together, turn nut on as far as you can and weld nut to shaft. It's ruined anyway so
welding won't hurt it anymore.
Eighty years from now when it needs new bearings who ever takes it apart is going to wonder what the hell that person was thinking who welded the nut on but who cares. Until that
time it will be our little secret.
 
When I worked for Allis Chalmers we replaced several sets of spindles. The bearing above the spindle would become worn and the owner dis not remove shims to tighten it uo. The front end would work up and down with the rollers wearing indentions in the race and the race would turn on the up-and-down shaft. Soon the key would become worn and the shaft, key and spindle needed replaced.
 
Well, it's starting to make sense now.

The reason for the extra washers was to get the nut further out where there were some good threads left.

There is a repair nut made just for your situation. I don't know if this is the right size, but if not, I'm sure somewhere out there there is one that will fit.

The broken races, I suspect the hub is spun out where the race presses in. You can replace the hub, or have it machined and a sleeve pressed in. That would be expensive unless you have the means to do it your self. Just replacing the race will only result in the new race breaking.

On the last post, there was a parts breakdown. It showed the back washer, a spacer, a second washer, and the felt seal sandwiched in between. Looks like the first washer and spacer are there. Do you have the second washer and felt seal? Be sure all that goes back, it's a somewhat unusual design.
Clamp Lock Nut
 
Looked to me like the hub is cracked in behind the bearing race. I'm not one to run out and buy new or new to you parts. Though this looks like one of those times when it would be the best and cheapest in the long run.
 
I am going to try and hammer the bearing races out tomorrow and see how damaged the hub looks with that out and cleaned up. But yeah, the spindle tip seems like the threads are worn down and a bit wallered out in the key hole and perhaps hourglassed a bit. Will take the micrometer with me tomorrow and see how much out of flat it is.

I have seen those wheel clamp nuts, I think I may have to invest in a pair, as I am sure the other side is boogered up too. I was hoping to keep this tractor as original as possible, so new hubs and spindles are not out of the question, but I want to make sure these are beyond salvaging (for a reasonable price).

Thanks for all the advice and thoughts, guys. I think this one is going to put my meager mechanical abilities to the test. :eek:
 
(quoted from post at 23:46:07 06/14/19)
GOOGLE "AB-254D nut".

Fantastic, found this same thing at a couple suppliers for about $20.50 a pop.

So how do they work? You thread the first piece on, then put the lock in so it can't back off, then you run the ring on to "crimp" it down?

What makes them work on busted threads, just curious. But it looks like a winner to me.
 
I went out tonight and took my calipers and did some measurements (which may not be amazingly accurate). Here is what I see.

Inner Hub, Up/Down: 1.475"
Inner Hub, Left/Right: 1.491"

Outer Hub, Up/Down: 1.182"
Outer Hub, Left/Right: 1.186"

New Bearing, Inner: 1.501"
New Bearing, Outer: 1.189"

Will have to hammer out the races and post those pictures next weekend of what I find -- ran out of time thanks to the rain today.
 

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