My carb kit came

Just got my carb kit in the mail.

It has a lot of little seals and a couple jets. As far as I can see, my main Jet looks pretty good, and I do not see any major wear or damage to any of the other jets.

Unless someone says otherwise, I am inclined to not replace any of the jets. This is also following the advice of several forum members who told me to stay simple, although I do want to do a thorough job and learn about carbs, so no easy way out for me.

The numerous small seals and bushing like things are a different story. Is it worth replacing them or just leave the old ones in?

I feel a little silly buying a whole carb kit and only using the two big gaskets (carb to manifold and the main gasket between the two halves of the carb).

I also have a well vent jet on order (C77-18-22 size) that should work well, since my well vent jet was damaged and got further damaged by removing it. In hindsight, I should not have tried removing the well vent jet, it was a mistake, but once I started removing it and damaged it, it had to get all the way out. I just got a little over eager to work on the carb I guess. I will take it slower from now on.

John

Did you get a parts explosion sheet with the kit.? That should show you where
all of those litte bits and pieces go. One of the NEW carb kits like chainsaws
and such then YES change everything. Old school stuff like yours as long as it
doesn't leak and it works then you need to make a.guess. One real pain in the
butt you don't see is fuzz in the galleries within the carb. Stop at HF and
pick yourself up a couple paint gun cleaning brush sets. They are cheep. Just
shooting carb cleaner through those passages is not enough. I have the number
drill sets for working on very small orifices but that kit is around $135.oo
but cheeper on Ebay. The largest drill is 1/8 inch and goes way down to the
size of a cat's wisker. They are all numbered. If you do a lot of carb work
they are worth the money. The little brush set will clean out fuzzys in the
passages.

Be sure your float is set correctly.

Glenn F.

The correct way to clean a carburetor is to soak it in a bucket of carb cleaner, for at least 24 hours. In our shop, we then rinse it with clean water, and then further clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner, using a citrus based solvent. It is then rinsed again, blown out with air, reassembled, and then preliminarily adjusted. We have never had one come back with a passageway still clogged.

If the bowl and top are extremely rusty, we sand blast it in the cabinet, and rinse again before it goes into the ultrasonic cleaner.

Don't listen to anyone who tells you to
half --- a job. You have it off so clean
it thoroughly and I mean every tiny hole.
Then put the kit in.

(quoted from post at 17:52:55 06/14/19) Don't listen to anyone who tells you to
half --- a job. You have it off so clean
it thoroughly and I mean every tiny hole.
Then put the kit in.

Click to expand...

Thanks M Man. No one was telling me to do a half job, but they were just advising me to not get in over my head, which I appreciate.

I will do a thorough cleaning, but I am afraid to remove the fuel valve seat (the brass seat where the needle goes, right by where the float attaches, not sure if my nomenclature is correct). I do not want to strip the fuel valve seat and get it stuck like I got the well vent jet stuck.

The needle valve seat really needs to be changed.

It should come out fairly easy. Find a screw driver big enough to catch both sides of the slot. If it tries to round out, try a small drift punch to shock it loose. Unlike the small jets, it probably has been replaced before, and should break loose with minimal effort.

(quoted from post at 19:13:44 06/14/19) The needle valve seat really needs to be changed.

It should come out fairly easy. Find a screw driver big enough to catch both sides of the slot. If it tries to round out, try a small drift punch to shock it loose. Unlike the small jets, it probably has been replaced before, and should break loose with minimal effort.

Click to expand...

Thank you Steve. When I get back from the beach, I will replace it.

Is it necessary to replace the other jets? As it stands, the well vent jet and needle valve seat will be replaced, but I do not think any others come in the kit. Should I buy them separately or just clean?

I understand why people tell you to leave the jets alone.
One, they're brass. Nothing really to go wrong with them.
Two, they can get all buggered up trying to get them out.
But, how do you know it's clean under/behind those jets
if you don't take them out and clean it yourself?
I rebuild a lot of carbs, hundreds in the last few years, so
I'm set up to deal with the damage if I bugger up the jets.
If you're not and your carb runs, you may want to leave them in.

This one happens to be from a very cruddy Farmall M.
The inside of the gas tank and carb looked just like the sediment bowl.

I would not replace any jets unless you can positively identify the replacements as being the same size by the number on the jet.

When taking a jet out, I'll give it a try, if it starts shearing the slot off and not moving, I'll usually leave it unless I suspect there is something under it that needs to be cleaned up.

(quoted from post at 21:27:32 06/14/19) I would not replace any jets unless you can positively identify the replacements as being the same size by the number on the jet.

When taking a jet out, I'll give it a try, if it starts shearing the slot off and not moving, I'll usually leave it unless I suspect there is something under it that needs to be cleaned up.

Click to expand...

Thanks Steve. Luckily, the jet that I damaged and was eventually able to remove, the well vent jet, was listed on a spec page online for the 9572 Zenith carb as a C77-18-22 Jet. I bought that exact size online.

I guess I considered the needle valve seat a jet, but it really is not. Besides the well vent jet (which must be replaced because it was ruined in the removal process), I will leave the other jets alone. Besides, I do not think any jets are included in the kit.

By the way, the tool you want to remove the needle seat is called
a Drag Link Socket. The one linked may not be the size you need,
they come in various sizes, but it's the right tool for the job.

[b:e929770113]Drag Link Socket[/b:e929770113]

Thank you Royse.

I have two 400s. I runs smooth as silk. The other runs good. I think the difference between the two is in the distributor. maybe you are not fixing the correct problem?

I have two 400s. One runs smooth as silk. The other runs good. I think the difference between the two is in the distributor. maybe you are not fixing the correct problem?

I alwats wondered what those were for. See them every now and then in the
socket boxes at the flea market. Always thought they were extra heavy duty
screw driver sockets. Did notice they have no taper. Like a firearm
screwdriver. See what ya learn on here!

You're very observant Jeffcat! Yes, they're heavy duty screwdriver
bits, and, as you pointed out, they are hollow ground like a gun-
smithing screwdriver so they set flat against the edges of the work
instead of having the edge-eating taper of a normal screwdriver.