Breaking in a rebuilt engine

Mtjohnso

Member
I will be starting up the Farmall Super A on Thursday. New pistons ,
sleeves, bearings, rebuilt head, etc.
How long should I run it before I change oil. Adjust valves?
Let idle then medium speed then high speed?
What have you done that is successful?
 
Over the years, I've heard all kinds of theories of starting / breaking in new engines. Personally; I'd make sure all is pre-lubed, and moves freely. Maybe even tow a little in high gear to make sure oil gauge comes up. If all checks out, then fire it up, and monitor for funny noises. make sure cooling system is ok, etc.. and go from there. I don't think I'd fire it up, hook to plows, and head to the field in full throttle.
 
Make sure to use a break in oil or add a brake in additive. I use Lucas Brake In Additive with zinc. Do not let it set around and idle put it to work. Tom
 
run it like any other engine get it up to temp as soon as you can . If you did a good rebuild job run it like you stole it.done a of engines over the years from stock car to big trucks 5hp to 500hp only one failed [my fault]missed a rod bolt some how . if you were clean,clean,clean you will be all right
 
How long should I run it before I change oil.

I would leave the break in oil in just as long as any other oil. Might want to take a sample if something doesn't sound right or loss of oil pressure.

Adjust valves?

The valves need to be readjusted as soon as it comes up to operating temp the first start. That should be done immediately after retorquing the head bolts.

Let idle then medium speed then high speed?

No, don't let it idle! Especially if it got a new cam and lifters. The engine needs to be run at least mid throttle to full throttle for the first few minutes. Idling causes poor lubrication of anything depending on splash lubrication, as in cylinder walls, cam and lifters, cam and accessory gears, etc.

I like to preset the timing, fill the carb, get everything ready so it starts immediately. Bring it up to speed, check oil pressure, be ready to top up the coolant, watch carefully for leaks, listen for unusual noises, keep an eye on the oil pressure and temperature, enjoy the small of fresh cooking paint!

As for putting it to work, just do what you normally do. Maybe avoid full load, as in a heavy continuous load where the governor is maxing out the throttle and wanting more. Give it an easy job at first, something to get the rings seated before the heavy work begins, if there will ever be any heavy work.

That's what I do, or recommend anyway... Hope it runs well for you!
 
Here in my rule:
Cheap oil for the break in period......50 hrs. Need some wear to develop the "wear in" of the new parts.
After the first few hrs which are light work and throttle positions running to WOT for short periods, hook it to a load and work it hard watching that the temp stays out of the red line which is where you want it. Seat the rings. If it starts getting hot back off till it stabilizes.
Change the oil-filter to your liking.
Be on your way.

I never went back and readjusted the valves on any engine work and as I know, never did I have an engine that required it.
 
Case says to bring it up to temp, then re-torque the heads and set the valves hot. When you re-torque the heads make sure you back them off first, the tighten. Do one at a time so the head doesn't get loose. Then run it an hour or so at different throttle settings, then put it to work. Light loads for a long time during break in can result in poor ring seating and oil burning. Use varying throttle settings for the first several hours as constant speed is not good. I change tho first oil at half the regular intervals to clean out anything that gets flushed out at start up.
 
The absolute best way to break in any new/rebuilt engine is on a dyno. But this hinges on having access to one. It allows you to vary the load, check temperatures, oil pressure and watch for leaks as well as fine tuning timing or carb adjustments.
The trick to seating rings and valves is pressure and without a load you won t make much cylinder pressure.

I overhauled a Massey 165 with the continental G176. Hung it on the dyno for an hour and let it eat. I could tell the difference from before and after.
 

AND///Re-Torque only after FULL HEAT Saturation of ALL engine parts has occurred..

Not just 1/2 hr..more like after 1 1/2 hr of light to mod load..
 

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