steve terplak
Member
I have posted a couple of times on Tractor Talk and the Massey Forum looking for help with my repair of my 165.
The good news - it is put back together, apparently fully functional and my total bill was in the neighborhood of $11. ($41 if you include the download of a repair manual that I should have purchased years ago $53 if you include the super long pair of needle noses I needed to put a tiny ball on a tiny shaft in the bottom of the transmission).
If anyone recalls; last fall (during 2nd cut) my PTO would not stay engaged which led me to believe the detent spring was failing. Then the stub that sticks out of the side of the transmission that the PTO lever pins to was too far in. I got that pushed out and re-pinned but then the PTO would not shut off, regardless of handle position. I attempted to remove the side plate but it is an IPTO on a multipower tractor which requires hydraulic lines here, which meant that I could not get the cover off the side without the top cover being removed. This meant my repair had to wait until after winter since it was getting close to snow plowing times and this is my main plow tractor.
Finally got a chance to open it up a few weeks ago. Lesson learned #1 - don't get ahead of yourself. I knew to remove the roller on hydraulic lift pump lever...but I got a little too excited when all of the top cover bolts turned easily and the top easily lifted off (with a 2nd set of hands). I noticed the lift pump lever sitting in the hydraulic fluid. Once I figured out what it was, I noticed that one of the tiny rollers was missing off of the bottom of that lever where it attaches to the pump. Good news; local parts place could order it and have it there in a couple days... grand total of 85 cents. Granted...all of this could have been avoided, had i removed the roller in the first place... So - that is my fault but I learned quite a bit about the parts making up the hydraulic system and how they interact with each other and the top cover.
On the PTO side of things; I noticed that the small modulating control valve (silver piece that attaches to the pto lever and plunges into the clutch housing) did not appear to go up and down as it should. This seemed to explain why the pto would not stop. I assumed, at this point, that the spring inside this had broken. Which was a $75 spring...which seems high but I hoped that was it. The modulating valve is a $400 part. I got the valve pulled, taken apart and...alas, it was not broken either. Which really confused me. I watched some videos, read through some instructions and thought. I realized that the valve sits on a solid piece of metal which goes into it. This was cocked to one side and was not letting the valve set all the way into the hole. A long skinny magnet rescued that, everything went back together nicely. Total cost: $0.
What I think happened is the first time the pin came out, I hooked it up wrong which pulled the valve too far up and allowed that metal pin to sit cocked to one side.
When I had a 2nd set of hands, put the top cover back on...fought with the gasket to stay in place. Retrospect, an engine hoist would have been a better choice - back to paragraph one where I should not have gotten ahead of myself. Total cost> $10 in gaskets and gasket spray.
Overall, I wasted quite a few days of work time...but I learned alot and, when I fired it up...everything worked as it should. Thanks to any bits of advice offered here.
The good news - it is put back together, apparently fully functional and my total bill was in the neighborhood of $11. ($41 if you include the download of a repair manual that I should have purchased years ago $53 if you include the super long pair of needle noses I needed to put a tiny ball on a tiny shaft in the bottom of the transmission).
If anyone recalls; last fall (during 2nd cut) my PTO would not stay engaged which led me to believe the detent spring was failing. Then the stub that sticks out of the side of the transmission that the PTO lever pins to was too far in. I got that pushed out and re-pinned but then the PTO would not shut off, regardless of handle position. I attempted to remove the side plate but it is an IPTO on a multipower tractor which requires hydraulic lines here, which meant that I could not get the cover off the side without the top cover being removed. This meant my repair had to wait until after winter since it was getting close to snow plowing times and this is my main plow tractor.
Finally got a chance to open it up a few weeks ago. Lesson learned #1 - don't get ahead of yourself. I knew to remove the roller on hydraulic lift pump lever...but I got a little too excited when all of the top cover bolts turned easily and the top easily lifted off (with a 2nd set of hands). I noticed the lift pump lever sitting in the hydraulic fluid. Once I figured out what it was, I noticed that one of the tiny rollers was missing off of the bottom of that lever where it attaches to the pump. Good news; local parts place could order it and have it there in a couple days... grand total of 85 cents. Granted...all of this could have been avoided, had i removed the roller in the first place... So - that is my fault but I learned quite a bit about the parts making up the hydraulic system and how they interact with each other and the top cover.
On the PTO side of things; I noticed that the small modulating control valve (silver piece that attaches to the pto lever and plunges into the clutch housing) did not appear to go up and down as it should. This seemed to explain why the pto would not stop. I assumed, at this point, that the spring inside this had broken. Which was a $75 spring...which seems high but I hoped that was it. The modulating valve is a $400 part. I got the valve pulled, taken apart and...alas, it was not broken either. Which really confused me. I watched some videos, read through some instructions and thought. I realized that the valve sits on a solid piece of metal which goes into it. This was cocked to one side and was not letting the valve set all the way into the hole. A long skinny magnet rescued that, everything went back together nicely. Total cost: $0.
What I think happened is the first time the pin came out, I hooked it up wrong which pulled the valve too far up and allowed that metal pin to sit cocked to one side.
When I had a 2nd set of hands, put the top cover back on...fought with the gasket to stay in place. Retrospect, an engine hoist would have been a better choice - back to paragraph one where I should not have gotten ahead of myself. Total cost> $10 in gaskets and gasket spray.
Overall, I wasted quite a few days of work time...but I learned alot and, when I fired it up...everything worked as it should. Thanks to any bits of advice offered here.
