Sharpening 32 saw blade?????

gmccool

Well-known Member
I need to sharpen the saw blade on my shingle mill. It has a 32" blade. Any do or don'ts. Any suggestions appreciated. I just bought this mill & used it for the first time yesterday & I thought I had to push harder on the carriage than I should have to. The shingles had a very slight discoloration. Not burnt but probably not far from it. The blade never got hot so I know it isn't terribly dull. I hope to sharpen it with a file.
 
File at the same angles as it was. Try to do about the same amount to each tooth. Also check the set. Very important!
 
I haven't checked the set but when the blade first starts to cut through the log it looks to be about twice the thickness of the blade. So I would think it isn't to far off. Thanks for the reply.
 
Count strokes and maintain solid but equal pressure. Do every tooth even is some seem sharp. (grandpa taught me) Jim
 
If you can't do it yourself some places that offer saw service to sawmills can sharpen it for you.
 
Is it carbide or not? Yes you can file regular blade but lots to it. What sms said or watch some videos online.
 
You need to be sure set is same on all teeth,file even file strokes to each tooth(dont file 10 strokes on that dull tooth then 4 on the sorta tooth) and say you made 5 file stokes to the tooth,found 1 that needs 10 strokes go back file the rest so they are even. If you dont when it enters wood you will know it quickly
 
Hi with a blade that big it should be hammered. You can sharpen it several times before pounding but you don't know it's history. I would take it to a saw filer. It's not that pricey. A stressed blade can crack and fly apart. Its a skill. Ed Will
 
Of course only file on the front of the tooth, not the top.

It will be worth your time to get it professionally sharpened the first time and they can give you guidance on touch up. After you know it is properly sharpened you'll have a reference for how it should cut. Chances are it has not been sharpened properly.

That's a big blade and a piece of history worth preserving.
 
I have been involved with a friends shingle mill for 10 or so years now and it has takes some learning. We run it a few times a year at fairs and shows. You want to sharpen it in the shape of rip saw teeth. The points of the teeth look more like chisels than the alternate left and right points of a cross cut saw. Hold the file almost 90 deg. to the blade. You need a very little angle to keep the file from chattering as you file. Do one side then change your position to the other side. The file stroke should be in the direction of the (very little) set to keep the file from chattering. You need very little set especially on the outside/shingle side. The carriage needs to be properly lined up so the log doesn't rub on the back of the saw as it advances into the cut. We have found that inspite of all the advise that you don't need set that some set on the back of the blade is necessary to keep the log from rubbing on the blade as it advances into the cut, maybe .010-.015". If you look around the internet or youtube you can find pictures and videos of this mill running. It is an orange painted Chase powered by a model A engine, roof over the trailer it is on. The Steam And Wireless Museum in East Greenwich R.I. has had a short video too if they still have it up. This is a good site to look around anyway.
 
All good pointers on maintaining a blade, but my guess, it has seen a lot of hand work over the years and a good fixture based sharpening is in store.

We took our clubs shingle mill blade to a professional shop. Cost about $100 and the blade cuts better than ever, now that things are trued up. Some hand sharpenings will keep it happy for several years before it needs to go out again.

Not sure where you are at, but there is a place in Grand Rapids, MI, and Paris, MI that does that sort of stuff for bigger blades.

Good luck !
 

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