14" 2 bottom plow

3/9semfi

Member
I m going to purchase a late 40 s Ford 9N to use on my hunting land. The land I purchased is old homesteads. They once were fields and are now full of grass mounds and between most of the grass mounds it hold water. I dug up below to get to the soil to do a soil test and the soil is sandy clay. This filed was worked in the 40 s but hasn t been since. My question is, will my 9N pull a 14" 2 bottom plow through this old field? We will be mowing the grass knobs down as low as possible prior to plowing. In my research, the Dearborn 14" 2 bottom plow was designated for the 9N. The 9N I m purchasing is in great shape. I m certain there are so many other variables involved as well. Yet, as I mentioned the soil is sandy clay. If I m able to use a 2 bottom plow like I m hoping i can. I live in northern mn and would be in the market for a Dearborn plow.....if anybody has one. I appreciate the help
 

DO NOT purchase an "N" series Ford .
Back in the day they were better than going around and around a field while looking up a horse s backside .
Today there is better than these under powered, light weight , lacking a real drawbar, no live hydraulics, no SCV, too fast reverse, too fast 1st gear , lousy brakes , no power steering and easy to flip over pre WWII designed relics.
The 9N would be hard pressed to pull one 14" bottom .
If you want a Ford . There are some entirely respectable 3000 or 4000 series that are real tractors .
 
Nothing wrong with an N series Ford. Wonderful little tractors,as long as you stay within their imitations. State of the art from '39 to '52.2 bottom is fine in 'open' ground that you plow/farm every year. But for 70 year old sod,it will struggle with one bottom.However,I agree with B&D,you need something bigger.
 
OK, someone needs a hug and an education. I pulled a 2-14 plow with a late 40's 8N no problem. I graduated from an 8N to an For 860 this year.

Now as far as the tractor. I've seen/heard of just about any type of tractor getting flipped. Use it wrong and they flip. Most often it's either getting on too steep a hill or trying to jerk something while hooked up wrong. In other words operator error. Heck we had a local kid here flip a 1066 IH open station tractor on a dry paved road. Nothing attached, wide front. Just out there on the highway in road gear playing the fool. He won't do that again. He did not survive. I have yet to hear about a tractor roll over caused by design flaws. Every one I've heard of was caused by operator error or lack of maintenance (like brake failure cause by leaking seals). Heck we had an old guy here roll a Farmall H on himself on a dry paved road. Going downhill, square baler and partially loaded wagon and he tried to make a turn onto another road.

I will agree that the brakes can be an issue if the rear axle seals leak. Fix the leak and fresh brakes and they work. It's that simple.

What you are looking at is not an late 40's 9N. The 9N was introduced in 193[b:01021ad147]9[/b:01021ad147]. The 2N in 194[b:01021ad147]2[/b:01021ad147] and the 8N in 194[b:01021ad147]8[/b:01021ad147]. Same family just improvements through the years. If someone is telling you it's a late 40's 9N they either don't know any better or are lying.

I myself would recommend something a bit newer too. 6XX or 8XX, 2 or 3000.

I too and from MN. Near Fergus Falls.

Rick
 
I agree with some of the post. The N series are fine little tractors but for about the same money around here you can get a 600, 601, 2000 model. If your not in a hurry you can biggie size up to a 800, 801, 4000.
 
(quoted from post at 07:41:10 06/05/19) I agree with some of the post. The N series are fine little tractors but for about the same money around here you can get a 600, 601, 2000 model. If your not in a hurry you can biggie size up to a 800, 801, 4000.

Round here it's 900-1800 for an N. Jump into the 600 and newer/larger? 1500 and up to 4,000 for a runner to fully restored. I bought an 860 this winter for 1250. Had to drive about 250 miles to pick it up. Should say my son in law and daughter drove that far. I was still laid up from a knee replacement.

The OP is up north of me. I'd suspect that the prices where he is is close to the same here.

Rick
 
I know and like the Fords.
Think they're the best.
But If you were my friend or neighbor I
would have you skip the N Series and buy
a newer model. As suggested, the 600,
800 Series are simple, reliable machines
that won't cost you much more than an N
but will have more features and do more
work. Pound for pound and dollar for
dollar they are a better value.
 
At looking at the posts, most people think a 640 or 650 would be the better tractor. Looked online, didn t find any. Doesn t mean there aren t any, I just couldn t find them. The tractor I m looking at is a 9N with a blade, mower and disc and the cost is 4000.
 
(quoted from post at 15:57:18 06/05/19) At looking at the posts, most people think a 640 or 650 would be the better tractor. Looked online, didn t find any. Doesn t mean there aren t any, I just couldn t find them. The tractor I m looking at is a 9N with a blade, mower and disc and the cost is 4000.

Way too much. Local guy here bought a running 8N, finish mower, brush mower, snow blower and rear blade for 1800. I did a tuneup, rear axle seals and brakes for him. He's been using the heck out of it. Don't be afraid to take a little bit of a drive. Sometimes a couple of hundred miles can save you big time.

Near Owatanna there is an 841 with power steering, new near new rubber and an all hydraulic loader for 4500

Rochester a 600 for 1300

Just a couple from a quick Craigs List search.

Don't base prices on what CL ads are asking. Best indicator is auctions. Saw 2 8N (please keep in mind that the 8N is newer and a bit improved over the 9N) tractors sell at auction 3 weeks ago. The nicer one with new tires brought 1800 and the other one brought 1050.

Now add in that I just purchased an 5' brush cutter for less than 2K new. (too big for an N series ford).


Rick
 
The Ford was designed for easy working soil around Detroit Michigan. So the 14" was good for that. Dad bought a new Ford in May of 44 that I still have along with a plow. They brought out a 2-14" with tractor, after 2 rounds they took that 14" back and brought out a 2-12" and things was good, the 14 was just a bit too much. A NAA would be a better size wise for the 14". But sounds like they are asking double market price for a tractor they don't seem to know anything about. But you don't need a Dearborn plow for that tractor, A John Deere would be a better unit fir it if it has the blade, throw away type share. The old style share is quite a bit over a hundred dollars per share and you will find them bad on any used plow you would find.
 
I go with B&D poor choice for what you want to do for a tractor. Many much better options out there like a 2,3,4000 ford of other brands . As for the sod I would disk it a lot first as if you have bog like clumps or mounds as you call them you will not be very happy trying to plow it.
You want a heavy disc for this type of work also. If you have a neighbor near by with a heavy disc might be cheaper in the long run to have them work it down some for you with that then use yours to finish it up.
 

Just don't expect to do a perfect job the first few years as you work the ground each year it will become much better...

I plowed a field this year that I had not worked in 3 years even with a 3000 with a two 14 it pulled hard and not perfect on most of it...

I should have ran a subsoiler thru it are something to break up the hard pan...
 
(quoted from post at 15:57:18 06/05/19) At looking at the posts, most people think a 640 or 650 would be the better tractor. Looked online, didn t find any. Doesn t mean there aren t any, I just couldn t find them. The tractor I m looking at is a 9N with a blade, mower and disc and the cost is 4000.

OK look at it this way.

1: If the tractor is indeed a 9N the newest it could possibly be is 1941. So the selling is either ignorant about the tractor or lying.

2: West MN an perfect show ready fully restored 9N with new tires might bring 2500. Average condition maybe 1300.

3: What type of mower? New 4' ruff cut from Fleet Farm is 1050. New disk about 1,000 and new blade 400. Used used ruff cut about 500 at best, 600 for the disk and 150 on a used blade.

So...

1300
500
600
150

2550 or so? You can add another 1000 if it's a used finish mower in good condition.

Just don't want to see you pay more than it's worth.

The prices I mentioned before of 1800 and 1050 at an auction last month was near Perham MN.

Rick
 
I found a 641 for 3900 in paynesville. Still would need to purchase the three attachments that came with the 9N. From what I gather, people that answered to my post seem to think that would be the better purchase on my part. I don t care about driving somewhere to get a good tractor. Just want a good one. I m only going to be doing @15 acreas total. And that isn t one spot. Just food plots around my hunting shack. Weight of tractor is also something that concerns me as well(soft ground)
 

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