26 hp Briggs cracked block?

Friend has a 26 hp Briggs. It drips oil between last two cooling fins before crank case. Only leaks after engine warms up.
Owner is looking for a bandaid. What do you think? Is there a bandaid?
 
If this is a twin V engine. They have a habit of leaking between the upper and lower halfs of the engine. Requires uninstall and taking the bottom of the engine off. New gasket and Loctite on the bolts. Never heard of a cracked Briggs but anything is possible. This is one of many videos that show you how to do it. Definitely change that bottom seal too!!! I have done two of these engines. Might be a good idea to pick the book up. Not that expensive.
 
Had a similar problem with 25 HP Kohler V-twin on my father in law's zero turn Gravely. 3 loose mounting bolts resulted in flexing of the crankcase and caused a 2" long hairline crack to develop around the one mounting bolt that was still tight. The crack caused a constant, slow oil leak whenever the engine ran.

My "bandaid fix": First I drained the oil and removed the engine. Next I used a file to cut a 45 deg x 1/8" wide "v" the length of the crack. I then lightly sandblasted the area and degreased it with spray trichlor. Finally I filled the crack with JB Weld. After letting the JB cure a couple days I stuck the engine back on.

The repair is now in its 4th mowing season (200+ hours)....it still hasn't leaked a drop.
 
The other wonder that Kohler made were the early Kohler Courage engines. Perfectly fine. Next day you go out mowing and oil is blowing all over the place from the right side of the tractor. Nice long vertical crack running right down the side of the engine. The head trys to remove itself from the block.
 
I would be inclined to clean it up and put some urethane on it like auto window installers use.
It sticks to everything it gets on and is flexible. I tried JB weld on an engine block once and it did not hold because it does not expand and contract at the same rate as block did.
 
Could also be. Take a gander at the video. He shows you where else they can leak. That pan gasket is the most common. If you have a defective block you are the first that i know of. Oh well.
 
Mike,
We think alike. Where its leaking gets very hot and anything not flexible won't work. Need something that will expand and contract and can stand the heat on the aluminum cylinder.

The piston goes past the hole and allows oil to leak out. Not sure if hole is subjected to any pressure created on top of piston.

Owner went ahead and used JB weld. Keep you posted.
 
You used the wrong JB Weld. JB Weld makes a number of different products.They make a product that will withstand heat for cast and one for aluminum. I used the original JB Weld on a cracked truck exhaust manifold and it held for five years.
 
Years ago my kids stripped the spark plug threads in the head of a honda 70. I had another head to put on it but i cleaned the hole up with brake clean and used jb weld on it and glued the plug back in thinking that if they rode it for a day it would buy me time to change the head. The plug NEVER did come out.
 

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