Will a subsoiler damage my 3 point?

I have an old Deere 2010 and I want to get a 3 point subsoiler attachment to rip some drainage paths to drain some low spots in my food plots. I have several natural bowls where water just sits and I really think just a couple of subsoil rips will open up drainage paths for the water to flow out much faster.


I also want to use it for popping rocks up that are too big to shovel / pry out of the ground by hand. In my mind, if I can just get under the corner of the rock, they will tend to "spin" out of the hole. I realize there are limits to this, so let's say I keep it to rocks about 2x the size of a basketball at max size.

So now to my question.

Will a subsoiler have a strong chance of damaging my 3 point hitch? It's a Cat 1/2 and the subsoiler I intend to buy is a Cat 1, so I'm not over-implimented.

I just have some fear of tearing up my good ol' Deere by rippin g off 1 of the arms at the attachment point or something. Am I over thinking this if I go slow and stop if resistance is too strong?

Many thanks.

Grouse

I think the 2010 will be stopped dead in its tracks long before any damage is done.

In general the arms are engineered pretty strong, it?s the top link that is the weak point on many tractors and get the odd stress loads.

Paul

It shoudn't be any worse than a 2 bottom plow,on the 3 point of the tractor, you got 2 or 3 standards, on the subsoiler, you might need front end weights !

I have a single shank Cat1 subsoiler. I have yet to be able to spin a rock out of the ground that too big to dig/pry. Maybe just never hit one just right. The bigger rocks I have hit stop the tractor dead.

Now a neighbor did damage his lower arms using it. But they were is pretty bad shape to start with.

Rick

I agree 2010 is just not enough tractor for a very big sub soil attachment

Not with a one shank . The big 9 song 11 shank v
rippers will tear up hitches when one side drops
through the hard pan and the other side doesn?t if
you try raising it without stopping and backing up

A single Shank will be all
that tractor will want. My
opinion it will stop that
tractor before it would do any
damage two the three-point. I
have a single Shank with a
shear pin that I can only
remember breaking the pin one
time over the years. Have used
it on a lot of different
tractors and never harmed
anything.

The subsoiler you're about to buy. Does it have parabolic shank(s)? Most subsoilers do but make sure it does. Brillion has a good
subsoiler in 1,2 or 3 shank models. JD has them as well. The parabolic shanks work very well in pulling out rocks. I've been doing
it for 19 years with my 3 shank Brillion. Not on purpose, it just happens. When I pull it with a 62 hp 4wd tractor and hit an
immovable rock the tractor spins out. When I pull it with a 125 hp tractor shear pins break. They're just standard grade bolts. My
advice? Get a 1 shank parabolic subsoiler, hook it up and go for it.

Will not hurt your 3pt, except if you hit a natural gas line.

(quoted from post at 08:55:35 05/08/19)
I think the 2010 will be stopped dead in its tracks long before any damage is done.

Click to expand...

You mean to tell me that I won't be seeing the 2010 featured on a BigTractorPower.com video anytime soon? That's just hurtful.

Grouse

To be clear, the subsoiler I'm considering is this single shank model.


I've looked at it and it's very heavy and good quality, the shank steel is 3/4 inch. Plenty heavy for my use I'd think.

The ability to pop out some flush--with-the-field rocks is kind a bonus, it would be nice but mainly I'm looking for a way to easily make some areas of the plots drain better and faster. Ditching is too big of an earth moving exercise for these small areas.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Grouse

To be clear, the subsoiler I'm considering is this single shank model.


I've looked at it and it's very heavy and good quality, the shank steel is 3/4 inch. Plenty heavy for my use I'd think.

The ability to pop out some flush--with-the-field rocks is kind a bonus, it would be nice but mainly I'm looking for a way to easily make some areas of the plots drain better and faster. Ditching is too big of an earth moving exercise for these small areas.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Grouse

To be clear, the subsoiler I'm considering is this single shank model.


I've looked at it and it's very heavy and good quality, the shank steel is 3/4 inch. Plenty heavy for my use I'd think.

The ability to pop out some flush--with-the-field rocks is kind a bonus, it would be nice but mainly I'm looking for a way to easily make some areas of the plots drain better and faster. Ditching is too big of an earth moving exercise for these small areas.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Grouse

I just bought one from TCS for my garden. Soil was getting compacted and poor drainage. I have the 3 pt prongs for the 2 pt fast hitch on my 300U and since its the only tractor I have that can do a 3 pt hitch
that is what I used. I pulled up one rock big enough I didn't want to lift it but I wouldn't want to hit really big rocks with it but I think it would just spin the tires on my 300U. I did hit a patch that was
probably clay and had to raise it a bit. It did make a big difference on drainage as with the wet spring we have had I haven't seen a lake there yet like the last few years. I'm going to try going over the
garden again before I plow it if it ever dries up enough to get on it.

As long as you go slow and dont try to set speed records you should not do damage. When you put speed into the equation the momentum of the tractor can do damage of the subsoiler dead heads a big rock or obstruction. If you do hook a big rock that stops the tractor you could do damage trying to pull up on the subsoiler while pulling ahead with the front end in the air. The top link could pull apart. Ask me how I know.

To be clear, the subsoiler I'm considering is a single shank model from Tractor Supply.

I've looked at it and it's very heavy and good quality, the shank steel is 3/4 inch. Plenty heavy for my use I'd think.

The ability to pop out some flush--with-the-field rocks is kind a bonus, it would be nice but mainly I'm looking for a way to easily make some areas of the plots drain better and faster. Ditching is too big of an earth moving exercise for these small areas.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Grouse

To increase drainage on those area, make a bullet shaped plug about 3 inches in diameter, chained to the lower end of the subsoiler. It will create underground runs to lead the water away. They don"t last forever, but should help for a couple of years.

At first when I read this I thought you were talking a 3 shank subsoiler. Behind a 2010-are you kidding me? I pull 4 behind a 210 hp. Cat and it is all the load it wants. But then
after reading responses I realize I read op wrong.

We had one for years, had a pipe laying attachment for burying black plastic water line.
Pulled it with a 850 Ford and Dexta, never damaged the three point on ether tractor.
Don't know how you pull a top link apart when the sub spoiler is pushing on it, if your backing with the shank in the ground then yes it pulls on the top link.
We've pulled more top links apart pushing with a back blade than with anything else.

The real question is how is your tractor weighted? Do you have wheel weights and are the tires loaded?

Either way, I doubt that you will break the three-point on the 2010 as it will most likely spin out first.

Yes but some guys are pulling 6x16 with 80 drawbar horsepower on here to

(quoted from post at 15:35:24 05/08/19) The real question is how is your tractor weighted? Do you have wheel weights and are the tires loaded?

Either way, I doubt that you will break the three-point on the 2010 as it will most likely spin out first.

Click to expand...

The rear tires are loaded with fluid and there's a Schwartz loader with 2 buckets on the front, so that's about as heavy as I'd want to weight her. I suppose I could put some rock in the bucket, but...

Grouse

I snapped one of the telescoping lift arms on my 2010. It had telescoped out by accident, I had a 3
bottom plow up in the air and I hit a driveway pothole driving too fast. SNAP. Keep them in and drive
slow.

Had a neighbor that had two 2010?s.
I ask him why he had two.
His reply was ? well the first one was so bad, I had to get a second one to see if they were all junk. They
are?
In a lot of opinions, possibly the worst Tractor JD ever made!

Wanted to give an update on my subsoiler. I picked up the Tractor Supply County Line unit, it's a Cat 1 subsoiler.

My 2010 gas has no trouble pulling it even in 2nd gear, she just sinks in and RIPS.

Even better, though is this! I have about 20 rocks out in various food plots that are flush with the ground and are too big to dig out and move by hand. Hand digging and prying with the loader is too time consuming and hard on equipment.

My HOPE was that I could use the subsoiler to "spin" them out of the ground by ripping up to them and then hooking the subsoiler on the edge of the rock.

Well this is one of the few times in my life where my theory actually worked BETTER in reality. I popped out about 10 of the rocks in an hour. In the current damp ground, they just spin right out of the hole.

The key seems to be hooking them with the subsoiler "claw" just to the side of the center. So if you picture an oval shaped rock, you want to aim the subsoiler for the left or right side, not right in the center. When the subsoiler makes contact, I lift up on the 3 point until the bottom of the subsoiler hooks under the rock. Up she comes! Then just spin the rock out of the hole, circle around with the loader and pick her up with the bucket.

I moved more big rocks in 1 hour than I've moved in the previous 5 years.

BTW, I've been listening to people tell me how "bad" the 2010 Deere is for the whole 6 years I've owned it. And it just keeps getting work done every year. That old gas engine starts right up when I know a diesel would have to be preened, prepped, and plugged in to have any chance. The thing about a 2010 is if it's made it this far and still operates well, how bad can it be?

Also, in this size of tractor, choices are constrained by what I could find in used condition within reasonable hauling distance.

The ONLY issue I've had with my 2010 in 5 years has been a plugged fuel line due to junk in the tank. My best guess is that at one point the previous owner left the fuel cap off for an extended period of time because there was pine needles and lots of organtic floaties in the tank. Once that problem was solved it's been running like a top.

Thanks for all the replies. Just wanted to close the loop with an update.

Grouse