(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

4020 s that don t start good when cold

K

Kory1998

Member
What s the remedy as too why the 4020 don t start soo well if cold outside ?
Have heard of destroker valve and engine rebuild but are they that normal? And if you put a manual valve in it would you have to manually turn it back in and out?
 
(quoted from post at 19:11:47 05/03/19) What s the remedy as too why the 4020 don t start soo well if cold outside ?
Have heard of destroker valve and engine rebuild but are they that normal? And if you put a manual valve in it would you have to manually turn it back in and out?
Click to expand...

ASSUMING we are dealing with a diesel here, keep good batteries in it and don't be afraid to give it a LITTLE shot of starting fluid through the port between your knees that Mother Deere generously provided for your convenience.
 
all you have to do is shave the block(I think, might be the head)I can't remember. I think it was 10 thousands of an inch. I use to work for a shop that did it in the 70's. He tried to get JD to do it to all of them and they refused. It was a simple as the compression was just a little low from new they would not ignite the fuel. a little shave job and guys were happy as a lark in this area.
 

Kory ,

My guess is one of two things. Needs overhaul because compression

is low , or it has had a valve grind and the valves are too deep in

the head ( makes low comp }. And other things good batteries , and good

bat cables.

If you overhaul it ,have machine shop plane the deck .007 as most

4020 blocks are low between the liner counterbores ,recut the counterbores

to proper depth, put seats in to raise the valves to proper height in the

head. I do that to the 3020 4020 and they will start cold.

george
 
It is more than likely due to low compression, due to slow cranking, valve recession, worn rings, or the earlier pistons that did not provide as good of compression.
 
If other than slow cranking either live with it or bring your checkbook.

I would figure on 5-6K once you open it up.
 

I'll suggest to check inj pump timing to be sure it's correct.

Rapidly turning steering wheel from side to side while attempting to start engine will accomplish the same hyd pressure relief as turning in the de-stroking screw.

And to answer your question if de-stroking screw is turned in it must be turned back out for hyd's to operate after engine starts running.
 
Install a destroker screw. Its $20.00 and takes 15 minutes to install. Yes, wiggling the steering wheel when cranking the engine over will help as it dumping hydraulic pressure, but it is not a replacement for a destroker screw. The destroker screw eliminates all high pressure in the hydraulic system, wiggling the steering wheel does not do that. You can get fancy and buy an $800.00 electric destroker kit too....

As stated make sure you have good batteries and cables. Don't forget about the starter. When was the last time is was rebuilt? I have seen many armatures get bent and then they drag. Don't forget new bearings and brushes in that starter. A rebuilt Delco starter will spin it over faster than a gear reduction starter.

There is a good chance that you are low on compression, but check the other components out too.
 
I had a cranky 4020 so I replaced both batteries with 925 CCA OTR Size 31 (⅜" studs) truck batteries and wired them in parallel, not series as JD wires
them, with 00 cables I had the OTR truck co that had the batteries (very high quality, stocked by the skid, price wayyy lower than anybody else and
better batteries) make up for me with the ⅜" terminals.

The battery adjacent to the starter was wired directly to the solenoid and one of the starter mounting bolts with the lead touching the starter itself after I
had shined up the mounting spot down to bare metal.

I didn't even have to turn the key. I told the tractor that I was going to start it and it started itself...........well not quite but you get the idea.

Batteries have to put out 300 amps for as required and you can't do it with sulphated up batteries, partially charged, with corroded/loose connectors and
long, lossy cables......all things that need your attention regardless of how good is your compression!
 
OOPs, that was a 4230C, not a 4020. I had a 4010 and 20 and it's been so long that I forget which was arranged how, and which were 24volt and which weren't. Point here is the same however....you need to get the 200 rpm which takes 300 amps give or take, with decent compression, assuming every thing else cooperates to get lite-off.
 
Wonder if 'The Greatest Tractor ever built' came with a lifetime supply of Starting Fluid(LOL)My near 50 year old Fiat and David Brown diesels fire right up BTW.
 
Block heaters work wonders in cold weather for starting and much easier on the engine and all.
Didn't those 4020's have a disconnect for the transmission for cold starting ?
 
(quoted from post at 12:36:29 05/07/19) Block heaters work wonders in cold weather for starting and much easier on the engine and all.
Didn't those 4020's have a disconnect for the transmission for cold starting ?
Click to expand...

Disconnect was on the Powershifts only.
 
One thing you can do is get a gear reduction starter from your local John Deere dealer it allows for faster starting speeds and better cold starts.
 

Most operator s don t seem to know enough to push the clutch down on mechanical drive machines to reduce rotating drag.
 
(quoted from post at 17:38:17 05/07/19) One thing you can do is get a gear reduction starter from your local John Deere dealer it allows for faster starting speeds and better cold starts.
Click to expand...

Bhaven11
You might want to read my thread about the gear reduction starters.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1378360&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

olgentdc
Not a tractor,,. Subaru Forester Question
Replies
14
Views
908
olgentdc
olgentdc
F
Deere 4020 New Owner Questions
2
Replies
29
Views
1K
FFFAM
F
S
Oliver 770 Diesel - Slow to Start
Replies
14
Views
693
oakdaleotter
oakdaleotter
C
john deere 6220 hydraulic testing.
Replies
7
Views
386
CRFarm
C
J
Ford 3600 BushHog / lift arms won t go down
Replies
2
Views
404
[email protected]
J
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top