New Holland Tractor problems

Any one know anything about a T4.75 New Holland Tractor? I have one that I purchased 5 years ago(2250 hours) and for the second year in a row has loose transmission-rear end bolts resulting in leaking transmission oil, et al.. The unit has a cab, 4wd and a loader on it. Use it in the winter time to feed big round bales. I'm thinking that the chassis is just not stiff enough to keep from twisting when going over some rather rough/rutty frozen ground. I told the New Holland dealer that the transmission oil was leaking again and what he thought we might do differently this time around. His response was rather curt and somewhat disturbing... " fix it right this time.....take the cab off.. split the tractor, tighten the top bolts as well, etc"...... like it was my decision to not remove the cab in the first place!!! Talked to my local Case/NH dealer as the Case/IH 75c is the same tractor. They gave me a somewhat different take on what to do and it doesn't include removing the cab entirely... and it involves replacing the gasket ...discovered that the NH dealer didn't replace the gasket.. just tightened the bolts.. but not the top ones... I'll probably get it repaired at the Case/IH dealer.. as they diagnosed an air conditioning problem that was not fixed last spring as well...... but what about the long term prospects? I'm afraid the chassis will twist and loosen the bolts again after a few years. Or maybe, the bolts were not torqued properly during original assembly.

Ideas? Thanks..
 
(quoted from post at 14:21:30 04/30/19) Any one know anything about a T4.75 New Holland Tractor? I have one that I purchased 5 years ago(2250 hours) and for the second year in a row has loose transmission-rear end bolts resulting in leaking transmission oil, et al.. The unit has a cab, 4wd and a loader on it. Use it in the winter time to feed big round bales. I'm thinking that the chassis is just not stiff enough to keep from twisting when going over some rather rough/rutty frozen ground. I told the New Holland dealer that the transmission oil was leaking again and what he thought we might do differently this time around. His response was rather curt and somewhat disturbing... " fix it right this time.....take the cab off.. split the tractor, tighten the top bolts as well, etc"...... like it was my decision to not remove the cab in the first place!!! Talked to my local Case/NH dealer as the Case/IH 75c is the same tractor. They gave me a somewhat different take on what to do and it doesn't include removing the cab entirely... and it involves replacing the gasket ...discovered that the NH dealer didn't replace the gasket.. just tightened the bolts.. but not the top ones... I'll probably get it repaired at the Case/IH dealer.. as they diagnosed an air conditioning problem that was not fixed last spring as well...... but what about the long term prospects? I'm afraid the chassis will twist and loosen the bolts again after a few years. Or maybe, the bolts were not torqued properly during original assembly.

Ideas? Thanks..
If you were having that conversation with an employee, it's time to have a discussion with the guy that signs the front side of the paychecks. If it was with the owner, time to find a new dealer.
 
If you use gasket eliminator instead of the gasket and put some on each bolt it will not come loose again, learned that some 45 years ago, I agree the dealer sounds like a Joke
 
Not familiar with that tractor or any recurring problems in that area, but any time bolts get loose, and are run loose with the mating surfaces working against each other, the outcome is never good.

The first step would be to separate it completely, clean the surfaces and evaluate the damage. Look for pulled or damaged threads. They can be checked with a new bolt, feel for excess slop in the threads, and a raised ring around the first thread indicating they may be partially sheared. You could even use a spacer and torque each bolt to be sure it will hold. Better to strip one now than when reassembling. If any are suspicious, they could be repaired with a recoil thread insert.

Once the surfaces are clean, any protruding threads repaired or filed flat, then go back with a new gasket, new factory bolts, and grade 8 flat washers to cover any deformities under the bolt heads. Torque to factory specs, Locktite if called for, or you prefer to use it.

Now getting the shop to do all this will be a stretch. That's the advantage of doing things yourself and knowing it is done right.
 
We had a T 4030 and I think it?s very similar to what you have. We had a lot of problems with front seals and bearings,plus loader supports. They are a very light duty tractor and hard farm work will tear them apart. If I were you I?d take it to the CIH dealer and let them fix it. See how bad the damage is if they can determine the cause and go from there. If it?s unlikely to happen again maybe make a decision to keep it,if it?s fixed right but too light for your application I?d consider trading it as once it?s fixed it?d still have significant value to someone who doesn?t have as heavy a work load.
 
Thanks Case Nutty.. I talked to the CIH deler and they told me they use the gasket eliminator stuff and indicated that you have to know what your doing with the "stuff" to get it right... went into some detail, et al... Sounds like they know what they are doing. I'm stating to think that the T4.75 is a bit light for my operation.. but we'll see what the CIH dealer says about the "twisting"... The dealer told me they just took in a CIH 75C ( same as the T4.75 NH)... in on trade.. former owner said it was too light for his operation.. bought a bigger tractor.
 
I clean all areas by sanding with emery cloth so it is bright and shiny, then I clean with starting fluid/ or spray parts cleaner followed right behind with a clean cloth/ or paper shop towels, also clean the threads and blow out with air then you just have to make a solid bead with the product so it will make a complete gasket, around every hole ect it is really easy I think to use and if it ever has to be taken apart again clean up with it is a Breeze, it also does not clog filters ect like worthless silicone does
cnt
 
had a Landini did the same thing twice. I had to do the clutch so I took the cab off. every bolt hole must be cleaned with brake clean and blow dry. The oil in there will never let it stay tight. Yes it is going to happen again. that tractor is not made for hauling round bales. I used lock tight on all the bolts and sold the tractor. My brother had one once to ,same thing. My other brother has a New holland. Now having the same issue you are. Wants to get rid of it as well. For newer tractors it seems you have to have 130+ hp tractor to handle the abuse that round bales of today put on the front ends. 1800 lbs and rough ground is alot torque on everything. Seems JD,and Valtra are built a little heavier.
 
TC 33 much smaller than others mentioned has the same issues. Have replaced all bolts for right side of engine mounting, loader mounting and belly mower and most frustrating is the transmission mounting. have replaced with better bolts loctite no way to get clean enough will have tear it down to attempt to fix correctly. I don't believe it to be coincidental that fasteners on the right side have been the culprits. The hydraulic system covers most of these and has to be removed to get at them well. Original loader install bracketry bolts difficult to tighten correctly all had loosened and worn.
I sold my smaller Kubota to buy this one a couple years ago and am starting to regret that decision. 3 different dealers say they never heard of such a thing.
 

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