grandpa Love
Well-known Member
This wire appears to be pulled out of this connection. Would this keep alternator from charging? If amp is bad will that keep it from charging?
- Thread starter grandpa Love
- Start date
john in la
Well-known Member
That broken wire is to keep it from overcharging. The wire that starts it charging is totally missing. I?m assuming it was left off on purpose and they were just reving the motor to high rpm?s to make it start charging.
Start the engine. Take a hot wire and touch it in the other side of that white plastic piece. It should start charging. If not a bench test for the alternator is in your future.
Start the engine. Take a hot wire and touch it in the other side of that white plastic piece. It should start charging. If not a bench test for the alternator is in your future.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
That wire being disconnected will cause it to overcharge. If it were run very long that way, it may have damaged the alternator, overheated it.
Try reconnecting it.
Then turn the ignition on, should get some voltage on the #1 terminal. If no voltage there, check that circuit. It should go back to the ignition side of the ignition switch, but pass through an indicator light or diode first.
Also be sure the big wire is hot from the battery or amp meter.
10SI Wiring
Try reconnecting it.
Then turn the ignition on, should get some voltage on the #1 terminal. If no voltage there, check that circuit. It should go back to the ignition side of the ignition switch, but pass through an indicator light or diode first.
Also be sure the big wire is hot from the battery or amp meter.
10SI Wiring
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grandpa Love
Well-known Member
This is a terrible sketch of how it's wired up. I know it's not the right way to check but when I take a cable off the battery the tractor dies. I'm guessing the loose wire isn't the only issue?
john in la
Well-known Member
The wire from the key to the alternator is the missing wire I was talking about. That wire will need a one way diode to allow power to go from the key to the alternator but prevent flow from the alternator to the key. Without this diode you will not be able to turn engine off as the alternator will give power to the coil threw this wire.
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grandpa Love
Well-known Member
As far as I can tell it's just a straight wire. But tractor does turn off.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
If #1 is wired directly to the battery side, it will drain the battery when off.
It must go to the switched (ignition) side, with a resistor or diode in the circuit.
It must go to the switched (ignition) side, with a resistor or diode in the circuit.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
Others are free to disagree with this but, checking an alternator by unhooking a battery cable went away with generators, it is not a recommended method for checking alternators. An alternator can spike and damage itself with the removal of the battery from the system. And can cause major issues in the electronics of automobiles now if done to them. JMHO
That wire being disconnected will cause it to overcharge." Well, SOMETIMES. Earlier units will do as you say, but later units do just the opposite and output nothing when 'sense' wire is disconnected.
Also, even though it is perhaps not the ultimate solution, if his ign sw has accessory position, he can tie excite wire there and skip the lamp/diode altogether and it won't back feed his ign coil.
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grandpa Love
Well-known Member
But it's ok to check a generator
that way?
that way?
john in la
Well-known Member
OK now that I am on the laptop I can see the black wire I thought was missing when I looked at it today on my phone.
Your could check a old big black round DC generators by pulling off the battery cable but modern ( to old timers - mid 60's and newer ) alternators run a 50 / 50 chance of burning up the diode tri pack which converts the AC output to DC voltage - is how I basically understand it .
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grandpa Love
Well-known Member
It's there but it ain't charging. May take it out and get it tested.
That loose wire on the #2 cavity needs to be connected to the large battery lug to charge. If the ammeter has 2 lugs with 2 wires mounted on the back then yes, a bad ammeter will not allow the battery to charge. With a bad ammeter, the alternator should still show charging if voltage was measured at the alternator b+ terminal, but won't show charging voltage measured at the battery +.
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