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Massey 3165 engine problem

T

The not so epic Jonah

New User
MF3165 misses hard when warmed up. Initially when it's first started it runs like a top, but when It gets warmed up after 10 mins it starts running on three cylinders. I've pulled wires when this was happening and I Think its number two or three, I haven't checked in a while. It sat for most likely years so I'm hoping it could be some Ignition parts? I think I've heard something about warm coil before?

Thanks,
Jonah.
 
I wonder if you have carbon or other crud built up on the stem of a valve,then the heat causes it to expand enough to stick open? I had that happen to an Oliver that I didn't use very hard or often.
 
Top contenders:
A loose/cracked manifold that is tight against the head when first started, but warps when heated up allowing air
to bypass the carburetor, allowing one cylinder to go lean and stop firing.

A spark plug with fouling that becomes conductive and stops firing when warmed.

A failing coil that is internally shorted such that it gets hot and reduces spark output which affects the weakest
spark plug/plug wire combo causing the misfire.

For the manifold problem get it warm enough to mis, then spray non chlorine carb cleaner, or propane from a small
hand torch with the burn nozzle removed around the the manifold to feed fuel into the leak. Do this outside!!.

For the bad plug possibility put in a new set. also check the conductivity of the plug wires. If resistor wires
less than 7000 ohms/ft is required if wire, there should be less than 5 ohms.

for the coil feel it when it is misfiring. If it is warmer than reasonable, and warmer than its bracket, it is
likely going bad.

Jim
 
I have seen tractor that as they warmed up started missing due to the valve clearance being too tight. As engine wear the valve seat wear and the valve stem gets closer to the lifting mechanism. This is why hydraulic valve lifters too over the car engine market years ago. So I would pull the valve cover off and check the valve clearance before wasting money on ignition parts.
 
(quoted from post at 06:10:57 04/14/19) Top contenders:
A loose/cracked manifold that is tight against the head when first started, but warps when heated up allowing air
to bypass the carburetor, allowing one cylinder to go lean and stop firing.

A spark plug with fouling that becomes conductive and stops firing when warmed.

A failing coil that is internally shorted such that it gets hot and reduces spark output which affects the weakest
spark plug/plug wire combo causing the misfire.

For the manifold problem get it warm enough to mis, then spray non chlorine carb cleaner, or propane from a small
hand torch with the burn nozzle removed around the the manifold to feed fuel into the leak. Do this outside!!.

For the bad plug possibility put in a new set. also check the conductivity of the plug wires. If resistor wires
less than 7000 ohms/ft is required if wire, there should be less than 5 ohms.

for the coil feel it when it is misfiring. If it is warmer than reasonable, and warmer than its bracket, it is
likely going bad.

Jim
Click to expand...


I just noticed the coolant in the rad isnt flowing at all
 
If it still has points, check the distributor shaft for side play.

A worn distributor will do strange things, cause the point gap to change at different temps and RPM.
 
When you have a miss that only affects one cylinder, you can mostly rule out things that will affect ALL cylinders. A coil will affect ALL cylinders. A Carburetor will affect ALL cylinders. A distributor problem will affect all cylinders as well. Those are all places NOT to look for the problem. I can almost give a 100% guarantee that you will NOT find the problem with an item that affects all cylinders. Having a distributor or coil affect only ON E cylinder and only when warm is a very unlikely possibility.

A warped manifold is one possibility. A bad wire or plug is another. A vacuum leak from an unused vacuum port is another possibility. Valve clearance is also a good possibility. If a valve is too tight, it can cause a loss of compression on one cylinder. Look for things that will only affect ONE cylinder.

Some suggestions are to do a compression test. Better if you test it while it is warm and acting up.
 
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