2wd on a slope

kmacht · Apr 1, 2019

I am having a heck of a time with my 63 Ford 4000. We have 6 acres of mostly
woods and have been trying to clear some more of it to make pasture for our
three horses. The problem is that most of the property is on a hill. It
isn't a huge hill but still a decent slope. It also used to be farm land back
in the 50's so there is 12-18" of loose top soil being covered by leaves. All
of this is combining to make using the tractor a very frustrating experience.
I have filled AG rear tires but any time I try to drag a york rake through the
leaves or even just drive up and down the hill the tires tend to mostly spin
and just dig ruts in the loose soil. I can get up and down these same slopes
with my lawn tractor but will instantly get stuck with the ford. I have
chains but think they will just make the ruts deeper as the wheels spin.
Short of buying a 4wd tractor (which isn't even remotely in the budget) how do
you all deal with the shortcomings of only having 2wd when working on a slope?
Is there something better than chains? A way to add additional rear weight
while still having a york rake attached? Techniques I'm not aware of? I have
thought about removing the front bucket to transfer some of the weight back to
the rear tires but if I get stuck digging a really big rut the bucket has been
the only way to easily push myself out.

Keith

paul · Apr 1, 2019

That seems an odd situation and I want to be careful on posts made April first, but is the problem that it is spring and very wet? Otherwise I can?t imaging a 4000 having difficulty pulling a simple York rake on a simple hill. The loader makes a difference, but really something is out of place to be as bad as you are describing.

The hill is much steeper than you describe.

The loader is way oversized and too heavy for the tractor.

The ground is too soft and muddy yet in spring.

You are pulling way too big a load of stuff with the rake.

I?m not sure what to say.

Paul

Mike Groom · Apr 1, 2019

Keith,You are probably going to have to change the method you're using.If it was farmed back in the 60's then it's probably not so steep that it would be a roll over threat so you can go horizontal with the slope,remember always to keep your bucket low,we farmed some very steep slopes in Southwest Wisc. and other than contouring didn't have a lot of problems.Also you may have to do most of your work with the rake going downhill,a little more time consuming,but less spinning.the bucket does take away from traction and other than a good set of wheel weights you don't have a lot of options.Just my thoughts,hope this helps.

kcm.MN · Apr 1, 2019

First of all, I'm a life-long Flatlander, so take my advice at your own....well, you know! *lol*

Maybe rig up a winch mount for your tractor and get a 12v winch? That way, the tractor is a mobile anchor point anywhere it can get traction. Then let the winch pull the tree to you.

Here's one that looks like it'll get the job done:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077B6TNQQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AG0F0UJGMJQPO&psc=1

BarnyardEngineering · Apr 1, 2019

Has nothing to do with 2WD or 4WD, and EVERYTHING to do with the conditions.

You're going to sink and spin and make ruts no matter what you do if the soil is really as deep and loose as you say.

Wait for it to dry out. Go through with a chainsaw and knock down the trees you want to remove so sunlight and wind can get in there to dry things out.

Probably the best thing to do is hire a bulldozer. A tractor is not even close to the best thing to be using to clear land.

old-9 · Apr 1, 2019

Have you tried backing up the hill? joe

johnofnewhaven · Apr 1, 2019

I have a Ford 5000 with a quick-tach loader. I also have fluid in my rear tires. I know I can go through much more soft/muddy ground with it off. I think your problem has a lot to do with your loader.

Traditional Farmer · Apr 1, 2019

The loader is making the tractor front heavy.I go around on the mountain on my place on 2WD tractors with not much difficulty but no loader unless I specifically need a loader.That said some tractors just go better than others for various reasons.I'd ditch the loader and get a blade to scrap out some well defined roads thru the woods.The roads I use have been around for over 100 years.

redforlife · Apr 1, 2019

Being farmed back in the 50's is not why the soil is loose in present day. Its because of years of being covered and shaded by trees and years of leaf debree being deposited. I don't think a 4wd is what you need. Will just help you get around further and tear things up even more.

I suggest you cut and fell the trees down. Anything to just get them down, and spray the stumps. Then start working on the down trees from the outside in. Being on sloped ground, there should be good run off when it rains. Standing trees hamper this. And the ground needs hit with sunlight to dry it out. I wouldn't worry much about working the ground or seeding grass untill it is completely cleared. Even after trees are down, only use tractor when it is dry. Tree clearing is very detrimental to the ground with equipment travel. Probly not going to salvage any grass that is already established there in the beginning. You just got to deal with these problems when clearing trees.

kmacht · Apr 1, 2019

I wish it were an april fools joke but alas it isn't. The ground is damp but not what I would call wet. It is very solid when walking around on it and not at all muddy. It just isn't solid and compacted since it is mostly top soild and leaves that have composted themselves over the years. Once the tires start digging in they just keep digging. I have the same problem when trying to do similar work in the middle of the summer when things are very dry.

The actual logging part isn't an issue. I have a farmi winch that I use to skid logs up or down the hill. I also have an old backhoe that can be used for pulling and moving the stumps and large rocks. What I need the tractor for is cleaning up all of the debris after I am done. I will see if I can get some pictures of the land tomorrow so you have a better idea of what I am dealing with.

I am starting to wonder if maybe the FEL really is too heavy. The bucket is solid 1/8" steel with the bottom plate being made of 1/4". Taking it off is an option but it would be really nice to york rake everything into piles and then move the pile with the FEL. I don't have a quick connect for the FEL so putting it on and removing it isn't a fast task. Any suggestions for a way to add weight to the rear end while still keeping the 3ph open for putting attachments on?

Keith

kcm.MN · Apr 1, 2019

Eh, you're going about this all wrong. Maybe you need to do it the Army way. If the problem is the hill, then simply grab your shovel and move it out of the way, then put it all back when you're done. :wink:

Brian G. NY · Apr 1, 2019

You need to put your chains on.....they will help immensely!
The double ring type of chains are the best for your conditions.
If you can drive up the hill with the rake raised and rake only down the hill, you will have much better success. The rake will help to offset the weight of the loader and improve traction greatly.
JMHO

fixerupper · Apr 1, 2019

Just taking the bucket off the loader will help.

fusion · Apr 1, 2019

Be on the SAFE side hire someone with a little D4 dozer and do it for you .
those little D4 s can do a lot of nice work .

MtMan · Apr 1, 2019

If your York rake is a 3 point rake try keeping it up and not raking too deep. and also keeping the rake up a bit will put more weight on the rear tires. It's your soil condition and; surely not your 2 wd tractor. But ring chains will make all the difference in the world. The chains will help to keep the tractor from sliding sideways in the mud also. A whole lot safer.

Dean · Apr 1, 2019

You will be amazed the difference once you remove the FEL.

Dean

Donald in MN · Apr 1, 2019

where i grew up it was hilly but not bad except for a few places a tractor and loader was kind of dicey. so unless we were picking up rocks or hauling fenceing materials the loader stayed off the tractor in the yard.

SVcummins · Apr 1, 2019

Buy or build some duals

Vicinalvictor · Apr 1, 2019

Get a bulldozer in there to do the work, that tractor is just going to make a mess on your hillside.

4xMF · Apr 1, 2019

I'll second the dual option.

Ron Muhlenkamp · Apr 1, 2019

It seems the cheap/easy first step is to drop the bucket and try it.
If that works put quick connects in the hyd lines to the bucket.

flying belgian · Apr 1, 2019

Take the loader off. If that ground was farmed in the 50s. it can't be all that steep. Keeping the loader on to walk yourself out when stuck is like keeping the horse to haul the horse manure.

37chief · Apr 1, 2019

Maybe let a little air out of the tires. Stan

3000OH · Apr 1, 2019

+1 on a dozer with a good operator. It was money and time well spent for us. It was even better when we hired the same friend to bring his JD track hoe, too. Big trees were no match for it, stumps and all came right out. Yes, it tore the ground up pretty good...but the dozer cleaned it all up.

495man · Apr 2, 2019

Take loader off.

Farmed for years with a 2wd tractor. Useless for field work when soft ground with the loader on. You could get something done with the loader off

kmacht · Apr 3, 2019

I pulled the bucket and put chains on it yesterday. It still isn't great but is much better than it was. I have an old non-running backhoe that has 1000lbs of suitcase weights on the front end. I'm thinking of taking them off and making a bracket to mount them over the axle or just behind the seat. Any reason this wouldn't work? It would be a way to try and offset the weight of the bucket for when I need to use it.

2wd on a slope

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