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Fluid filled tires

grandpa Love

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
After trying out the 3 bottom plow I realized I need to fill my rear tires. I have the adapter to do so but have questions. How full? What happens to the air? Do you add air? Living in Alabama can I fill with water? Should never freeze, maybe add a gallon of antifreeze? Any tips ,ideas will appreciated. Thanks.
 
Where you are you will need at least a little antifreeze or you can get an ice layer which can cut the tube. Just let the air out and add water. You will have to let air out a couple times as water volume increases and pushes up the pressure.
 

To keep tractor from rocking back and forth when frist stopped the tires should be filled to stem level with stem at 12:00 o'clock.
 

cvphoto18168.jpg
 
A dual on the land wheel helps put more power to ground these tires are filled to the max with the heaviest mix of calcium available
cvphoto18170.jpg


cvphoto18171.jpg


cvphoto18172.png
 
Unless you are going to plow acres and acres I would drop the back bottom and make a two bottom out of your plow. Your tractor will then easily pull it in any soil condition and do a better job of plowing. The fun is in using our tractors so if it takes a little longer you get to have that much more fun. LOL Tom
 
I had a 2 bottom and every time I took the 960 to tractor shows several old guys would tell me " boy you need 3 bottoms for that tractor". Lol. So I up graded
 

Get you a Haltec N-1091 adapter. It goes on the end of your garden hose and on the valve stem, and then there is a "burp" fitting that you open periodically to let the air out. There is a huge variation in 3 bottom plows. I had a very heavy 3x14 auto reset that was category 2 hitch that took a good sized tractor to lift. Then on the other hand you see the much lighter 60 year old ones that a 960 would play with in light soil. So I expect that you will do fine.
 
Showcrop, I found one of the hose
attachments in a box of stuff from
by buddy's barn. He gave us lots
of good stuff when he moved. This
3 bottom plow isn't super heavy.
 
I use to pull a 5 bottom 16 inch plow with my Deere 4020. It worked but kept me busy always on the depth control ect. I bought a 4 bottom 16 plow and pulled it a gear faster and relaxed while using it. At the end of the day I think I did almost as much work,had a better job and was not near as tired. Tom
 
Between the 960 and the 961 that is one or two years newer they added 4 HP and it was then considered a 4 plow tractor but in normal conditions that is a bit much.
 
You may want to ballast the front tires as well. It will help keep the front end down when you have weight on the hitch and will improve stability on side hills.

Calcium chloride has pretty much fallen out of favor. Rimguard (sugar beet juice) has largely replaced it, although it's quite expensive and overkill for down south. My tires are filled with windshield washer fluid; the dealer I bought them from doesn't like Rimguard. I don't think I'd use automotive (etylene glycol) antifreeze, just because of its toxicity should you spring a leak, not to mention it's expensive. Consider using RV antifreeze, which you can usually buy at Wally World or HD for less than 3 bucks a gallon.

Once you've filled the tires, add air to bring them to their normal pressure (e.g. 23 psi). Of course it will take a lot less air than before, and the pressure will be more sensitive to temperature changes.
 
If that is the tractor you do customs jobs with do you really want to lug all the extra weight around to every job so you can go to some plow day every once in a while to pull one extra bottom?If I were going to add weight it'd be with wheel weights that way they can be easily removed and added as needed.
 
And always remember after you are done when you check the tire pressure
valve stem needs to be at 12:00
 
Its free to start with but the costs will add up getting the fluid out,not being able to patch a tube most times that has had fluid in it,places charge more to repair if it has fluid and the aggravation factor.I have tractors both ways but am slowly headed to no fluid in tractors tires,plus I like the way tractors look with original weights on them.Keep on the lookout lots of times weights can be bought at a bargain.
 
(quoted from post at 07:54:09 03/29/19) Its free to start with but the costs will add up getting the fluid out
Click to expand...

Water is easy to remove from tire except for the last few gallons then a pump is required if remainder of water is wanted out. Just place valve stem @ 6 o'clock unscrew valve stem & watch water spew out. BTDT when I stopped plowing with my JD 4255
 
Our Ford 640 had fluid in rears.
When we bought new tires we didn't
refill them. Tractor is jumpy now.
Probably will fill them this
spring. Very noticeable
difference......... It was easy
to let the water out!!
 
I agree way to much but that is the way they were advertised. Might have been figuring 12" bottoms tho as 4 12" would pull easier than 3-16" due to amount of dirt being turned. Same width but the 16" would be plowing deeper so more dirt to turn. Here I believe it would handle a 12" plow in 4 bottom but not a 14" or 16".
 
You might want to sit down and read up on how to operate the draft control, and adjust the plow so you don't need fluid. That tractor should pull that plow without much of a problem.
Loren
 
Loren, reading is one of my favorite things to do. Will study up on it. First pull with that plow ,it dug deep and tractor was spinning in place. Raised it up a bit and was good to go. Unfortunately it looks like I raised it too much or I ain't adjusted correctly. Or a combination of it all.......
 
(quoted from post at 21:45:51 03/28/19) Showcrop, I found one of the hose
attachments in a box of stuff from
by buddy's barn. He gave us lots
of good stuff when he moved. This
3 bottom plow isn't super heavy.
Click to expand...

How the plough is adjusted can make a considerable difference in how it pulls .
 
(quoted from post at 10:01:16 03/29/19)
In an ideal world, external cast iron wheel weights are preferred over liquid ballast .
Click to expand...
According to who? I don't mean to single anyone out, why are so many people stating their opinion as if it's everyone's opinion? Wheel weights IMO are a complete waste of time for what I need.
 
(quoted from post at 10:44:48 03/29/19)
(quoted from post at 10:01:16 03/29/19)
In an ideal world, external cast iron wheel weights are preferred over liquid ballast .
Click to expand...

Liquid ballast is not readily removable . Liquid ballast Has higher rolling friction and less traction than the same weight as a dry tire and external cast iron ballast . A dry tubless tire is lower cost and quicker to service than a filled tire .
If the corrosive CaCl ballast is used . Add to the cost with rusted rims and tractor if the tire seeps or squirts .
Nothing against your Pappy, his Pappy and his Pappy before him for using liquid CaCl ballast . They just did not know any better .
Click to expand...
 
> Liquid ballast is not readily removable . Liquid ballast Has higher rolling friction and less traction than the same weight as a dry tire and external cast iron ballast . A dry tubless tire is lower cost and quicker to service than a filled tire.

Higher rolling friction might be relevant for a BTO, but isn't going to matter for the hobby farmer.
I don't believe there is any significant difference between the traction of a tire weighted with iron versus one weighted with liquid ballast.
Ballasted tires are a pain to service, true, but weights aren't fun to deal with, either.

> If the corrosive CaCl ballast is used . Add to the cost with rusted rims and tractor if the tire seeps or squirts.

Which is why nobody uses CaCl anymore.

On the plus side, liquid ballast gives a lower center of gravity than iron weights. And it's readily available and cheap, while cast iron wheel weights for older tractors aren't so easy to come by.
 
Liquid ballast is not readily removable . Liquid ballast Has higher rolling friction and less traction than the same weight as a dry tire and external cast iron ballast . A dry tubless tire is lower cost and quicker to service than a filled tire .
If the corrosive CaCl ballast is used . Add to the cost with rusted rims and tractor if the tire seeps or squirts .
Nothing against your Pappy, his Pappy and his Pappy before him for using liquid CaCl ballast . They just did not know any better .
Click to expand...

Who said anything about calcium? I sure didn't. If you have to make things up to prove your case, your case isn't so strong. Sort of like your word play, trying to make it seem like wheel weights provide better traction than loaded tires. Nice try.
 
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