Baked-on hoses that won't come off

I have a 1964 Ford 4000 with a Ford 720 FEL.

I have no idea when this FEL was last serviced and I need to remove it to split the tractor to replace the clutch. (A clutch that I think was worn out partially from the use of the FEL). While I have the FEL off, I might as well try to do what I can to tune it up and service it as much as I am capable of.

The problem I am running into is that all of the hoses on the tractor (power steering, coolant, hydraulics) seem to be "cured" from the heat that occurs with (I suppose) normal operation. At this point, it is apparent that there is more than the hose clamps that are keeping them attached. (There is also thread tape on the hoses to the hydraulic actuators - i have read that is likely bad to, but that is another topic.)

Before I can get that far, I need to get them off and that is proving to be extraordinarily difficult to do. It appears that I will end up destroying the hoses and needing to replace them.

Razor blades are not faring well against reinforced hoses. I thought about wedging a flat screwdriver in to try to create space, but I am not sure how far I can go without damaging a part I can't replace.

Is there a better way than 'brute force' to get these hoses off?

As always, I appreciate your input, the knowledge you guys have and share is invaluable.

If the hoses are that bad it’s better to replace them. It isn’t that expensive. If you do get a baked on hose off without damage it won’t seal up well when you clamp it back on.

Have you tried using channel locks around the hoses and rotating the hose with them to loosen them? I agree with fixerupper, any hoses that bad need to be replaced. If you have a Dremel with a reinforced cut off wheel you can use it to very carefully cut the reinforcements lengthwise of the hose to weaken it.

High pressure hydraulic hoses should not be held on with hose clamps. I'm not sure that's actually what is going on here, but I thought I should mention it just in case it is.

If these are drain hoses, return lines, cooling lines, or other low pressure applications. that's a different discussion.

There should be a threaded fitting that can be removed with a wrench on any high-pressure hose that needs to be removed.

Thank you John. I did not even consider using my Dremel. Likewise, i do have some Channel Locks.

I am still little bit out from actually dismantling the loader, but it is going to have to happen soon. I have a lot of work that needs to get done and the loader is what I need to use to get that work done.

If you are going to destroy a hose anyway, my suggestion is to cut it off very close to the fitting and then use channel locks or gently pry from the inside with a screwdriver to slide the remainder off the fitting. Hacksaw if you have room or better yet careful use of a reciprocating saw. This of course applies to hoses that should be secured with hose clamps and always nice to drain down as much fluid as possible before the cutting begins.

I probably mixed up a few thoughts in my statement, i did not mean to mislead anyone into thinking that pressurized hoses were held on with clamps! LOL! No.

I was making a general statement that encompassed the various ways and states hoses on my tractor are currently in.

Hose clamps on the return for my power steering, yes. Those hoses were 'baked' on, but I resolved my power steering issue without removing the hoses. The clamps there are now purely decorative... I guess.

I have pressurized hoses that have thread tape - that's a different issue; one that needs to be addressed as well, but it was not the focus of this post, just how to remove those hoses that have been heated to the point where they are stuck to the metal and I need to remove them.

I've only had this tractor a few months, it was mostly in storage over the winter and now that it is warming up and sunlight shines later into the afternoon, I can spend a little more time (and time is money...it's all getting spent).

Therein lies the rub. I don't WANT to destroy any hoses, but I think they are past their life expectancy as it is. I honestly don't think I will have much of a choice in the matter either.

With respect to draining as much fluid as possible, well yeah, that's the trick isn't it?

I have not yet found drain cock for the loader's hydraulic system, so it looks like I need to cut the hose, in order to drain it. The re-print of the manual I have mentions keeping the right amount of fluid in it, but does not say from where it should be removed to change it. The lowest point in the system is the return hose at the bottom in the front below the pump. That is the first hose I intend to remove - when I can get to tune-up and service work on the FEL.

Many of you out are probably *smarter and **better-looking than me so I'll listen to what you have to say.

* Likely
**maybe

If you use a Dremel or a grinder be careful as to not damage the hose nipple, you could cause a leak!

If your loader is like mine the drain plug is above the bucket and the 4 bolts that holds that housing on is where the filter goes.

When they get stuck to the fitting they have served their useful life and using them any longer is a risk.

I have a tool...it's like a pointed screw driver with a right angle bend about 1 1/2" from the point.
I use it to get under radiator hoses or lo-pressure oil hoses to break them loose.
Go to a parts house or tool salesman and ask for a cotter key remover.
I also used it to remove and install window gaskets on machinery.
Anyway it worked for me.

Rad hoses, heater hoses, hydraulic return lines, fuel lines, air hoses etc operating at low pressure and commonly secured with hose clamps.
Your best bet is to figure out roughly how long the barbed portion of the fitting is then add 1/4 inch.
At this mark cut the hose off square using a razor knife, hacksaw, cut off wheel, butter knife, whatever.

The portion remaining on the fitting can usually be sliced with a blade or loosened with what is called a hose removal tool.
Picture an awl with the shaft bent to resemble a goose neck, works real good to break the seal.

You do not want to scratch, gouge or deform the barbed fitting or you will be replacing that as well.

If the hose is long enough to reuse after cutting you stand a pretty good chance of getting a little more life out of the hose, again these are low pressure hoses.

Thread tape on fittings generally is not required for AN, JIC, ORB, banjo, compression, ferrule ... and most others.

If the joint uses pipe thread then yes a sealant is in order.
If you know what you are doing then Teflon tape is fine.(regardless of what half a dozen are likely to argue)
If you are new to this then use a sealant compatible with the material in the system you are working on.

Wire brush on a 4.5 inch angle grinder.

Wear your safety glasses

Beagle

No trick involved, drill or hacksaw hoes at the lowest point.

You need new hoses anyway.

Beagle

Use a screw driver or small chisel to cut split the
hoses If a razor won?t cut them