forced air kerosene heater UPDATE

I posted on my problems with my Ready Heaters a couple weeks ago and I thought I'd post my findings after finally getting them fixed.

I learned 2 things.
#1 If the compressor is 1/2 psi off from specifications it might just cause it to trip off--picky SOBs. I never imagined 1/2 psi would be a problem.
#2 A crack in that plastic cover over the end of the compressor so small you can't see it can cause enough pressure loss that you can not adjust output high enough to overcome it. I mean I had real trouble seeing the cracks even after I knew they were there!

Some tips:
* Get a good low pressure gauge to test the pressure--I got mine on ebay for $14 from a US seller (probably still make in China). Arrived in like 3 days. It is a glycerin filled dial that goes up to 15 psi and was sold specifically for working on these heaters.
* It was hard to run to them to test as they'd keep cutting off so I finally pulled the fuel line from the nozzle and wired the motor to an appliance cord so I could run the motor w/o having it constantly cuting off and without it spraying fuel. I then applied some soapy water over the plastic end cap and the cork gasket which was when I found it was cracked. I tried to compensate by adjusting the pressure up but couldn't even get 2psi out of the pump with my finger over the nozzle. I removed the cap and struggled to find the crack the air was coming out of. Likewise I'd suspect any leak in the hose or fittings from the pump to the nozzle would be equally bad but mine were good.

New end caps fixed both heaters. The newer 60,000btu unit had the psi specs on the data plate (3.4psi) but for the older 30,000btu unit I had to look online, finally finding a manual that said was 3.0psi. However, in practice it took 3.4 before it would continue to run just like the newer one's specs. Go figure.

This said over the course of trying to get these running I also purchased a $12 photocell which turned out not to fix anything. I disassembled and cleaned the nozzles of both machines and the fuel filter of the 60,000btu unit I recently acquired as well as it's tank as it had some weird stuff in the tank. The tank on the 30,000btu unit I'd been using for a year or so seems perfectly clean and it's made in such a way that checking the fuel filter is a PITA so I just let it be. I've been hedging my bets each time I though I knew what I needed to get to fix them too. I ordered one photo cell and tried it on both machines--like I said didn't fix either. Then when it came to the plastic end cap since both machines used the same design I only got one new one and have tested that it fixes both machines.

So now to order the second needed end cap and a set of air filters the newer on desperately needs. I'm sure this all was done for much less than a repair shop would have charged me.

Maybe my experiences will help someone else.

Thanks for your tips. I have a Reddy Heater somebody gave me that I never got to work, even after replacing a bunch of parts and adjusting the pressure. I have one that works so I gave up on the bad one; maybe I'll give it another shot.

They're not that complicated, but they can frustrate you to no end...

I have one that won't light unless the top cover is unscrewed along one side to let more air in. Otherwise it just blows a mist of fuel out the end until it cuts off automatically. It's set at the pressure specified on the tank, but it won't light. I've even tried reducing the pressure, but then it won't light at all. It has brand new everything. New fan, new nozzle, new hoses, new pump impeller, new pump cover, new sensor, new spark plug, and set to factory specs, but it won't light if the cover is screwed down.

Then I have another smaller one that won't light unless you "choke" it by holding your hands over the rear of the heater. That one's lean, right? Increasing fuel pressure even to the max doesn't help. Still needs to be choked to light. Once it's lit, it works fine for hours.

I had yet a third one that ran fine, if it was 70 degrees out.

Thank you for the detailed information. Those heaters are the most frustrating creatures on the farm.

My solution was much easier, and probably cost about the same. I simply bought a new heater. The old Reddy-Heater is out in the shed. Out of sight. Out of mind.

Years ago like late 70's I had a 90,000 Knipco. Dad bought a new Ready heater 30,000 dealer could not get it to work, exchanged it for anouther new one, did not work, exchanged it for a second 90,000 Knipco and used both every year untill I just got rid of them and going to work for new owner. That dealer quit trying to sell Ready heaters because of all the problems, Don't understand how brand survived with all the problems.

Putting things in a shed out of sight wouldn't work for me. I just can't seem to let things like that drop. I've been known to throw things in the trash then pull them out later when I though of another idea.

Case in point, recently I had an pneumatic brad nailer quit working. I spent hours disassembling and assembling it over and over but couldn't get it to work. Replacing it would cost $15 at Harbor Freight. Exhausted I finally went to throw it away but knowing I'd end up pulling it from the trash and wasting more time later I took that sane moment to lay it on the concrete and beat it into pieces with a sledge hammer. It took far more of a beating than I'd have imagined to crush that casing. I then turned my attention to a Porter Cable brad nailer I bought for $22.50 at an estate sale which also turned out to be broken. I started disassembly and found some plastic parts inside were crumbling apart like a sandcastle would--just a little pressure and they'd kinda mush apart. Sigh, I hate loosing money but I'm not starting this battle over on this one. I dropped it to the floor and picked up my sledge hammer. Gone in 60 seconds. I do remember being a bit ticked by how far the parts flew and having to pick them all up. The next day I went and got one at HF. I'm happy now. Mostly I use the nailer to staple or nail small parts that are too flimsy or light weight to withstand hammering. The air nailer is so fast even a picture frame corner doesn't have time to move when the nail/staple is shot in and I can keep one hand holding the pieces together and the other one operating the gun.

(quoted from post at 16:54:24 03/19/19) Putting things in a shed out of sight wouldn't work for me. I just can't seem to let things like that drop. I've been known to throw things in the trash then pull them out later when I though of another idea.

Case in point, recently I had an pneumatic brad nailer quit working. I spent hours disassembling and assembling it over and over but couldn't get it to work. Replacing it would cost $15 at Harbor Freight. Exhausted I finally went to throw it away but knowing I'd end up pulling it from the trash and wasting more time later I took that sane moment to lay it on the concrete and beat it into pieces with a sledge hammer. It took far more of a beating than I'd have imagined to crush that casing. I then turned my attention to a Porter Cable brad nailer I bought for $22.50 at an estate sale which also turned out to be broken. I started disassembly and found some plastic parts inside were crumbling apart like a sandcastle would--just a little pressure and they'd kinda mush apart. Sigh, I hate loosing money but I'm not starting this battle over on this one. I dropped it to the floor and picked up my sledge hammer. Gone in 60 seconds. I do remember being a bit ticked by how far the parts flew and having to pick them all up. The next day I went and got one at HF. I'm happy now. Mostly I use the nailer to staple or nail small parts that are too flimsy or light weight to withstand hammering. The air nailer is so fast even a picture frame corner doesn't have time to move when the nail/staple is shot in and I can keep one hand holding the pieces together and the other one operating the gun.

Click to expand...

I've not yet tossed it because I might want the fuel tank for something. Someday.