Young Guy looking for a 2bottom plow...

youngfellow

New User
I ended up getting a IH H and just finished going an engine 'refresh'. Runs good considering I'm 17 and first engine project. Attached is a picture of it if I can manage to figure out how to post a pic. Yes, the fender brackets I made to use some case fenders that were given to me.

I'm on the lookout for a two bottom plow. In a couple months is the local plow day, and I'd like to partake.

I'd like trip lift, but would consider hydraulics (I don't know if the belly pump even works in the H).

What should I be looking for? I will assume an H will pull a 2x14 well?

Also, if somebody in Michigan has a plow they'd like to sell that you think a 17 year old can afford, let me know. Or if your going to Polks auction in Indiana and could bring one
along, my older brother will be down there and could get it for me.


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Can't help you with a plow but you can get an idea if the hydraulics work by pulling back on the lift lower lever with nothing attached, You should hear the engine working a bit if the pump is working
 
A 2x14 is perfect for an H.To 'test' the belly pump,simply pull the lever back with the clutch out. If it loads the engine,then it works. Or yu can put a (1000 lb) pressure gage on and pull back the lever. It should read somewhere around 700lbs.Since this is your first tractor,you would be well advised to order an owners manual,service manual,and parts manual.I applaud your thinking 'outside the box' with the (non IH) Case fenders.They look good!Welcome to the world of old tractors!
 
Plowed a bunch with an H 2x14 little genius is what if look for . But case and deere would be fine . Look on the photo implement add on this site . If berry there some .
 
What about a single-bottom steel wheel trip John Deere? I've got pictures of dad using it back in 1971 or so, think I've done a garden patch once since then; hate to see it just sitting. I haven't moved it in a couple years but last I knew it still operated correctly. Sounds like you would be able to fix & use it the way I had intended but not achieved. That being the case, you can have it if you want it. I'm about a mile outside Moscow, MI.
 
Too bad you aren't closer. A friend has been storing a plow at my place and you could have it I think. It needs a bit of work but could be made to work again. As I said, too bad you aren't closer to R.I.
 
So, where are you in Michigan? There's quite a few guys from Michigan on this site. I'm planning another get together in Okemos, MI in a coupla weeks or less...
 
I have a 1950 "H", a Crossland 3-point, and a JD 2-14 mounted plow, and the thing works just perfectly. I had to invent a turnbuckle to hold the thing from slewing over to the left, and I stuck the turnbuckle along the right side of this contraption, to hold the plow in position. But man, is it a pleasure to plow, the old "H" hums right along, the plow just Sssshhhhuuushes along, you can hear it in the back, It's wonderful.
 
There's a consignment auction in Trufant April 6. Don't know that there'll be one there,but I wouldn't be surprised. I've got an Oliver 2 14 and so does a neighbor. I'd rather not get rid of mine. I told him once that if he wanted to sell his,I was interested,but he's never offered to sell it.
 
maybe in sandy soil. In my dirt,3x14 is a load for an M.Better to have 'too small' an implement that you can easily pull n 3rd,than to have 'too big' that forces you into low and pulls the guts out of your tractor. Also embarrassing to have everyone 'piled up' behind and waiting for you at plow day.
 
Had a good running 41 H for years, 49 to 84, fluid in tires, new, and 2 sets of cast weights. Used 2-12" and would not have wanted 14" as here in Ohio that would have been a big load. It looks like your tires are fairly smooth and even tho you have weights do you have fluid? Without calcium in tough ground you would be spinning out before you ran out of power. But not for very long. If very easy plowing you might with both traction and power handle the 2-14" but here you would not be doing anything except spinning when you had enough power to do that. Get a single bottom pull type with the hydrolic lift. That way if you start getting bogged down you can raise plow a half inch to an inch and keep going and when you get through the tough spot you can go back to normal depth. You CANNOT do that with a clutch lift plow. I do know Michigan has some easy working ground but I would also think areas would have tough working ground just the same as Ohio. And a single bottom will be easier for a newbe to get adjusted to passable working conditions. I know a single bottom would be harder to find than a 2 bottom. And where one said an H could handle a 3-14" plow, only out on the road, not in working conditions. And you want a plow you can pull in third gear most of the time with second avaible for tough going and never have to get down in low. A lot of plow days the tractor will be hooked to a small plow just so they can say se how fast I can go. It will either be that or an oversized plow with the owner saying see how much I can pull while holding up everybody else because he cant hardly pull it in low. You do not want to be the one holding every body else up so you gat laffed at. With a hydrolic lift you can be setting still and still lift plow out of ground where a clutch lift in tight spots you would need 3 hands to get turned around and plow lifted. Also an embarencement to have that clutch lift not raise at end and plow around end of land and when you try to drop plow it raises. You no not want that. Get the easiest handling plow you can for now and later on when you are comfortable handling the outfit then get the bigger plow and the clutch lift. We either converted our clutch lift to hydrolics or bought hydrolic lift plows.
 
MeAnthony has a deal for you down farther in the comments that looks like just the ticket for an ambitious young guy. Check it out if you haven?t seen his post.
 
Same here. No way in the world an H would handle 3 14s here. My uncle only pulled 2 16s with his Oliver 88 diesel. Most folks pulled 3 14s with 88s,but he wanted to be able to keep going. lol
 
A single bottom will be easier to learn the adjustmends on than a 2 bottom as the leveling adjust ment will not be as critical. Also a plow that the tail wheel carries the back end instead of a plow that carries the tail wheel will also be easeier to adjust as one less adjustment to have to learn. Dad and I both had plowed for years and used plows that carried the tail wheel, got a different plow and used same hitch setting as always but could never get it so that tail wheel was not skiping over the ground. One day hooked to plow but drawbar was in a different setting for a previous job and no longer any tail wheel skiping, was runnimg all the time as supposed to do. So even tho we were both experanced it was something we just could not see to get the adjustment correct. Now a plow that rides on tail wheel all the time that is also one less adjustment for you to learn right off. And on level ground you should have a 66" wheel tread, center of left wheel to center of right wheel. Hilly ground go for 72" instead of the 66". Some will say set the tires at 56-60" but that gets into danderous area with that tall a tractor do to tip angle. Even if so level no danger of rolling tractor the seating angle WILL hurt your back later in life and a sore back is nothing to laff about. Your back will like you if you do that. At your age you will not think about that but get twice your age it will start showing up by hurting from setting at an angle. One wheel in furrow with the other on top of the land. And stay away from an Oliver plow. They are a good plow but for them you should to be able to adjust the hitch have a tractor with a 56" wheel tread like the W4 that is just a standard tread version of your tractor. I had the oliver plow but tried using it with the 72" wheel tread and could not get it adjusted to work correctly, Would have worked OK with a tractor with the 56" wheel tread. Hitch design. Traded it after one season on a Deere and had that plow for 30 years. Try to find a field to practice plowing on for several hours before you are ready to head to that plow day as it will take you hours to learn operation of outfit and how to set things up so the other plowers do not have to do it for you. Have seen that many a time and moldboards not clean and shiny but very rusty and soil will not slide over that rusty moldboard but just stick to it. Major embeaancement., you don't want to look like you are a dummy the moment you get to that plow day. And even if you are close enough to that plow day to drive tractor to plan on having a trailer to haul the plow as even if on rubber they do not like to be pulled on the road. In that case the plow that carries the tail wheel will be easier to load-unload than one that rides on the tail wheel. I started plowing at age 13 and 62 years ago. Use one Farmall, 5 Fords, 1 Ferguson, 1 Moline and 5 different Deeres. And both clitch lift and hydroliv lift, plows that carried the tail wheel as ones that road on it, semi mounted and 3 point hitch models. A lot for you to think about before you ever start looking for that plow. And some 3 bottom can be converted to a 2 bottom just by unbolting and rebolting in a different place. Some 2 bottom could also have that done as well to make a 1 bottom but most not.
 
MeAnthony ,

I would very much like to take you up on your offer. Tried sending you an email through the YT message system.
 
That is about as good of a plow for your use as you could hope to find. The only thing is when you are just learning when you come to ent of furrow to raise plow you have to keep moving where a hydrolic lift you could stop, lift see that you are making the correct turn without trying to make sure you did lift the plow when you thought you did and had not gotten that done. If you don't pull rope hard enough or long enough it will not release the clutch to raise, Then if you hold it a bit too long it will raise and go back down so you are plowing across the end untill somebody stops you. Red face time. But that is better than consecrating on lifting plow and running into the fence. And you will probably need a new share si this is the person to contact for that as he makes the shares. Ploworx, Steve Rea at 330-332-9386. 13909 Duck Creek Rd. ,Salem, Oh 44460 [email protected]. Make sure you have a coulter on that plow. And the trip release is working. Also make sure you have a rope release that will automaticaly release in the plow becomes unhooked. Sounds like the plow should be a Model No. 51 that is the simgle bottom version of the No. 52 that we pulled. Just do not have the drawbar raised way up, you non't want it over about 16" high from ground and you do need a ring hitch or twist clevis. Take the clutch apart and clean it good and do not over greae it as that will make it so it will not work.
 
I'm still too poor to buy lots of good stuff but I got a 3 bottom tow plow and 2 bottom 3pt plow for free from a guy I bought some other stuff from. If you are a nice young man and look at some local CL ads you'll learn to spot the deal places! Folks will advertise what's worth the most money, but when you get there, bring some extra cash and start to bundle. Lots of times folks just want a little cash to make it worth their while but their real goal is to clean up the place and do better than hauling it for scrap.
 

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