Busted Cylinder


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The cylinder busted on my disc. I am pretty sure it is a John Deere it was purchased with the tractor. Do you think I can just weld this back up and it will be good or is there something inside that will no like the heat? If not any idea on where to get another
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one, or can I use any new cylinder, just wondering about the switch or small lever on the end. Not sure what it does, so any input is appreciated.
 
T
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto16512.jpg"
This picture did not upload in the original post.
 
Any standard 8" cylinder that diameter or larger will work. The button is the depth control. You slide that collar to hit the switch to hold what ever depth you want. The trouble with those is as the cylinder ages and leaks some the collar will get pushed down the shaft changing your depth. Why did that break? Do you need a larger cylinder?
 
You can use any 3 1/2 or 4 inch bore 8 stroke cylinder in place of that one. You could try welding that one really don?t have a lot to lose at this point
 
(quoted from post at 13:14:43 03/14/19)
&lt;img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto16510.jpg"&gt;
The cylinder busted on my disc. I am pretty sure it is a John Deere it was purchased with the tractor. Do you think I can just weld this back up and it will be good or is there something inside that will no like the heat? If not any idea on where to get another
&lt;img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto16511.jpg"&gt;
one, or can I use any new cylinder, just wondering about the switch or small lever on the end. Not sure what it does, so any input is appreciated.

That is an old-style, relatively low pressure 3-1/2" bore X 8" stroke from the 70 - 730 tractor era.

They break when used with modern, much higher pressure hydraulic systems, and sometimes from extreme temperature changes from cold to hot, if left fully extended or retracted under load/pressure.

If you want to keep it (for use with a tractor from the era it's from), a search for the cylinder barrel (DEERE F1425R) turns up quite a few available, including a "NOS" one on ebay for $160.00.

Or buy a new 3-1/2" X 8" cylinder ($80.00 and up) from a farm supply and buy a set of depth stops, if you are now using the depth control valve feature on the DEERE cylinder.
 
With cylinder busted and rod all pitted up with chrome missing just throw in scrap pile and get a new one. They are econical
 
its junk! cant weld the body of a cyl. plus its a low pressure cyl. and that's the cause of the split.
 

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