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What do you like to use on exhaust manifold bolts?

B

blue_tractor_man

Member
I'm getting ready to put the exhaust manifold on my 1967 Kohler 4 cylinder flathead. I got some grade 8 flange bolts like someone here suggested. The original bolts were not in great shape.

I like to use Never Seize on stuff like this. What do the YT experts say?
 
(quoted from post at 22:42:30 02/25/19) Dean, do you think I should use studs and brass nuts rather than the flange bolts?
Click to expand...
That is the old standard way of doing it. Plus anti-seize.
 
I just paid a few bucks to get manifolds pulled off my 460. Typically the bolts do not freeze in the head. They freeze to the manifold.
Anti-seize should not be applied to the first three or four threads that screw into the head, but rather the length that does not screw into the head.
Many, many. . .Now ya' got me counting. . . .about 38, years ago, I put brass nuts on the manifold donut joint. One trip around the block and they fell off.
A few people will swear by Brass nuts. It only too me a trip to pass on those.
 
I have done a lot of exhaust work,the studs that almost always broke were steel with brass nuts, use steel nuts with copper anti seize.
 
I had a 1972 pickup with headers which was used for pulling a trailer a lot in mountainous country. Every year regardless of how many miles I put on, the starter went out and the header needed to come off before the starter could be removed. I used blue Permatex for the bolts holding the headers on, and they always came out like I had just put them on. That blue goo seemed to work as a weak Locktite and an antiseize at the same time. I don't know how it may work for others.
 
I agree! Copper anti-seize good for up to 1800deg. We do alot of chevy 6.0 manifolds at work, probably 3 or 4 a month. Thats what we use.
 
My recommendation would depend upon the application. If the engine uses studs rather than bolts, I recommend brass nuts with appropriate washers. If it originally used bolts, I would recommend new bolts of equivalent hardness with anti seize. Of course, if the bolts go into the water jacket you will need to use thread sealant rather than anti seize.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 07:20:50 02/26/19) I had a 1972 pickup with headers which was used for pulling a trailer a lot in mountainous country. Every year regardless of how many miles I put on, the starter went out and the header needed to come off before the starter could be removed. I used blue Permatex for the bolts holding the headers on, and they always came out like I had just put them on. That blue goo seemed to work as a weak Locktite and an antiseize at the same time. I don't know how it may work for others.
Click to expand...

It's a little late to worry about it now, but if you had split a coffee can and wrapped it around the starter solenoid for a heat shield, the starter would have lasted a lot longer. (Old drag racer trick)
 
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