What is the best 70 plus HP tractor pre 1970

chas036

Member
I am looking for an older (pre 1970) tractor in the 70 plus HP range that I can use to do basic field work like plowing with a 4 bottom 14" trailer plow on hilly ground, pulling a 12ft culti-mulcher and 12ft disk, and maybe running a 7ft snow blower in the winter. Fuel economy is not an issue since I will not be putting more than 50 to 100 hours a year, so I am open to a gas tractor.

I would like a tractor with a good reputation for reliability. Also , since I will do all the maintenance myself, I would like a tractor that is relatively easy to work on, and where the parts are still readly available and easy to find. My price range is $3500 to $4500.

Currently I own a JD 620, JD 730 gas and a late model JD-A, but they just don't have the power I need.

I have been kind of looking at Olivers like the 1850 Perkins because of the what I have been told about that tractor being very reliable, and very easy to get parts because of the Perkins, but I am open to other recommendations also.
 
I thought you had bought an Oliver or 2 ? Can't go wrong with a JD 4020 though. I'm not a big fan of the 3020 because of the 4 cyl. engine in them.
 
For me,it's been my 756 diesel. 13.000 hrs,turbo charged. Been an awesome tractor. My favorite of thebunch.But there are a lot of good choices out there,of all colors.
 
Delta and Mike M stole a little of my thunder. Depending on your location, you could pick up a 1964-67 4020 gasser or 706/756 or even 806/856 gasser for your $4500 budget. The 706 would be right on the bubble on your HP requirement. You would be able to save a few more bucks if you are ok with a narrow front end. In my area, Im just thinking your budget may be a little lite for a diesel in good shape.
 
I live in the northeast upstate NY and I have no problem wih a narrow front tractor, and kind of like them because they are more manuverable.
 
Case 930 and 1030 Comfort King (8 speed) would be in your price range, meet your requirements and as a bonus most likely have a diesel engine. IHC 706 gas and JD 4020 gas would have better ergonomics, but their hydraulic systems are more modern and more complicated.

You could probably sell the JD 730 for more than any of these will cost, or apply the extra towards a nicer cab tractor: Case 70 series, JD 4230, IH 66 or 86 series, etc.
 
660 international, simple economical tractor, that's a diesel though. you either hate them or love them. I farm with them.
 
Ford 5000. Very reliable, good on fuel, easy to get parts for, fully independent PTO. I see them on Craigslist often in that 3500-4500 price range. Cheaper ones most times are not pretty anymore, but still a bomb proof tractor. Al
 
The 9/1030 case would likely be the most reliable and fuel efficient tractors in that category, but not great starters for blowing snow. A 9/1070 case would be just newer than your spec, but the best for what you want. Hard pullers fuel efficient, comfortable to drive, and very reliable, and good starters if They are not too worn out.
 
That's a tight budget for a 70hp tractor in New York, but if you get in the right place at the right time, you can get lucky. I've got an Oliver 1755 that I gave $6k for and thought I did pretty well for this area. I love the Olivers, but as Delta Red said, the IH 756 is a great tractor also, especially with a diesel.
Good luck
Pete
 
Price might be an issue and can you find something that does not need 2 years in the shop to be viable?? A Minnie Mo 670 comes to mind!!
 
If your 730 doesn't have enough poop,chances are better than good 70/80 horse wont either. You need to look at 100 horse.Go ahead and get tat 4020.Put some money with it. borrow some,or sell a 'two banger'(the A would be my choice). Look into 806,856,966;Ford 8000;Oliver 1850/1855;case 930,970,1070;AC 200,XT190.There is no 'perfect' or "best" tractor out there. All have good and bad. find one you like,can afford,has a local dealer.....Look at total overall condition,tires,options?.Example,a friend has a couple of Cases. A 1070 and a 2590.Both are good tractors,pull like a freight train and just sip fuel. But I just don't like them.Wpould never own a case. Nothing 'wrong' with them.Acctually they are fine tractors.I just don't like them.My son once told me to wait,buy what I wanted,not to buy something else just because it was 'cheaper'.He said I woud always regret not waiting.He was/is right.(the wisdom of a 13 year old). I waited and bought the 1023 stackwagon,not the 1000 or 1030,and have never looked back.Good luck.
 
A 1650, 1750, or 1850 would serve you well. All are simple to work on. If you can find an 1850 in decent condition for $4500, grab it, get out of there, and never look back in case the guy who sold it has second thoughts. I paid $5500 for the one I bought and figured I got a good deal. Parts are readily available for all three. We had a 4020 and a 1650 on our farm. Traction-wise the 1650 would pull anything the 4020 would on dry ground and was better in muddy conditions. Which makes sense since they weigh about the same. I'm not knocking a 4020, but they are over priced and much more difficult to work on than something like the Olivers. The hyda power/hydraul shifts are very reliable, also. All of the suggestions below are pretty good choices, too.
 
Good 930 Case's can be bought most anywhere in the country in the 3500 dollar range with good rubber all around, reliable, tough and would handle the tools you mentioned in any ground.
 
I would advise him to stay away from the 1855/1955. Performance-wise they are very good, but the turbo'd 310 was just pushed too hard for the reliability to be as good as it should be.
 
Same here. Unless you can buy an 1855 and an 1850 with a bad rear end,then transplant the tub and engine to the 1855 so you have what would amount to a green White 2-85. I'm afraid an 1855 would turn a first timer off to Oliver forever.
 
I wish I knew why there was such a difference in those engines. It was 1 degree this morning,and I'll bet you anything the 1850 would start right up just using the manifold heater. The 2-105 has the same engine and if I was to try to start that thing,I'd have to plug it in for an hour and a half and still use the thermo-start.
 
The only thing that is going to run for 3,500 dollars is a Case 930. If you are willing to go to 4,500 or a pinch more then an Oliver 1850 or IH 806. Forget the gas tractors for field work and get a diesel. 100 hours per year and 2-2.5 gallons per hour more fuel at 2.75 per gallon means an additional several hundred dollars going up the muffler that does not need to be. If you need the tractor for the winter to blow snow 3-6 times per winter then buy an engine coolant heater so it starts when needed. It's 2019 and not 1964 so you have a pretty good idea as to when the snow is coming so a lot of electric is not wasted guessing on the weather.
 
Hey randy what about one of them Oliver's with a 6b 210 Cummings (aka dodge truck motor)?? I have seen a couple. As one guy said I bought a Cummings and got an Oliver for free!!! hehe
 
First the requirements? 4 14's? 7 foot blower?

You don't need 70 HP for 4 14's. Blowing snow? You will be much happier with a fully IPTO than live.

Next look at dealer support in your area. Me personally? I want to go and get my part. Don't want to wait for someone to ship it when you got hay on the ground. It will vary area to area. Here for example JD, IH, Case and Ford. Other than that just no dealer support.

Rick
 
Before you buy a JD4020 gas, You should talk to jd seller I think I remember him telling us about a 4020 gas tractor. Talk to Loren the ACG man about the Case line of tractors. . Old Scovy .
 
There was a series of articles in Hart Parr Oliver Collector magazine about transplanting those engines in to a White or Oliver. The parts are available,but it looked to me like by the time you got done pumping money in to one,you'd be better off just buying a good running tractor.
 
Lots of soil in the NE would require 70 HP for a 4 X 14 plow. It all depends on the OP's farm and if it is like the one I work the soil type can vary in a matter of a few yards.
Dealer support is important and based on that criteria you might as well buy a 4020 as the filters, battery, etc. will be on the shelf at the dealer. The other tractors
mentioned you will probably have to order things such as fuel and oil filters and put them on a shelf in your garage. I went to the NH dealer a year ago for an oil filter for a
Ford 860 and that dealer had to order it. My understanding is that the Case dealer no longer stocks filters for the 1960's IH tractors as the turn is too slow to justify a bin
space versus a part for a Class chopper.
 


ford 5000 or better yet the ford 5600 or 6600. All right round 70hp and in the 1970s. Lots of Aftermarket parts for them. Of course the engine hp will be higher than the 70 pto hp.
 
I had to laugh to myself yesterday when I blew that power steering hose on my Fiat/Oliver and it had BPT fittings,but they were able to make one and I was going again in a few hours.


From decades of experience with Deere,let me tell you how it would have gone if that had happened to one of those. The fittings would have been some special "Deere only" and nobody would have been able to make a hose. I would have driven an 80 mile round trip to Deeremart. They would have told me they couldn't make it either,they'd have to order one already made. I would have gone back today to get it and it would have been the wrong one. They would have ordered another one and if I was lucky it would be here tomorrow. So there would have been a third 80 mile trip. The tractor would have been down for three days,I'd have driven 240 miles and the real kick in the head,the hose would have cost me $225. BTDT too many times.
 
Imagine going to a dealer and not having an engine oil filter for a common as dirt Ford 800 series or IH 806. I can't blame the parts guys as they have to answer to the accountants. Everything is geared to keep the 24 biggest accounts happy and beyond that it is "we can order it." The exception is the white collar guys who expect the blades for their compact utility tractor to be on the shelf when they roll in the dealer driveway in their 70,000 dollar SUV.
 
That's the thing with this older equipment. You'd better be buying something with as many generic parts as you can find. If you need brand specific parts,good luck. Those JD hex shaft bearings come to mind. You don't go to the auto parts store and get back to baling hay on a weekend if you're stuck with those.
 
Didn't even call the ACGO dealer. It was a pretty generic part. That would have been my next stop though.
 
TSC bearings are barely worth the effort to put on for how long they last. As far as oil filters go you had better plan ahead to do a change. Your luck is not going to change going to NAPA as the 1950's and 1960's stuff is yesterday's news. The auto parts store inventory is set by a budget and they figure that is better used on accessories for late model pickup trucks and from their viewpoint they are right.
 
i would say Oliver 1650 1655 1750 1755 1850 as you already mentioned.

Case 930 would be good too. built like a tank and plenty around and plenty of parts. and for the $ probably the best deal. long stroke diesel one of the best lugging/pulling units out there. 1030's ok but not as common as 930 and a bit more power but same size as the 930 physically. going a bit newer you could get into a Case 970 for a reasonable price too. watch the power shifts

Know of at 190xt Allis Chalmers that only brought $1500 and they put another $1500 in it and use it daily on a dairy farm.

i would think the 656, 686 IH would be close to 70hp too. not as common but decent tractors.
 
RR you forgot one!! After the second hose did not fit the one you really need is the one nobody has and it will be 6 weeks before it gets here!!! Way it is today one has to keep some parts on hand and plan ahead. I find even common parts they don't stock. Or another classis they only get a shipment once or twice a year when the items (baler teeth etc) is sold out its a long wait!!
 
Seems though that was a kit at one time. BUT AFTERWARD YOU WOULD HAVE A GOOD RUNNING TRACTOR!!
 
Since you mention British pipe I have had to work on 2 things with at thread, a dyno and a natural gas control valve.
 
I'd never heard of them,but after I posted about them yesterday,it looks like they were a lot more popular than a person would think. Must be like the BSF bolts in my David Brown built tractors. Unlike the pipe thread though,those have the right thread count,but the wrong thread depth. You can run a standard tap in the holes and clean those out for a standard bolt anyway.
 
Ya,I sooner put one in a 55 series Oliver or a White than an earlier Oliver though. You'd have the better brakes and hydraulics.
 

If you shop around you will find that you can save money by buying bigger. For instance a Ford 7000 is in your horsepower range but not your dollar range. However, you can buy a Ford 8000 or even 9000 for less money. The same will hold true for other brands. For every potential buyer of a Ford 9000 there are 100 potential buyers of a Ford 5000.
 
Everyone is going to tell you their favorite tractor. Everyone has there own opinion and reason why.

By all means I am bias to John Deere. My only other real experience to another color is my Oliver model 1950 and running my neighbors Internationals.

I did not like the jumpy clutch on them IH, the 56 and 66 series were not to bad compared to the 06 and 86 series. I never cared for the grinding when you shifted them either.

I hated the poor hydraulics on the Oliver's, steering and brakes. The idea behind the 2 speed (Hydr-power) was great, but for anyone to build a unit that intentionally free wheeled when in Hydr-Power going down hill should of been fired.

I would stick with John Deere green, you can not beat there hydraulics which includes steering, brakes, 3-point, and remotes from that vintage (pre 1970's) The smooth shifting, good seat suspension, and easy controls make it my choice.
 
You are asking a loaded question. Expect a loaded answer. What's good for the Gander taint necessarily good for the Goose!
 
I knocked the bearing out on the PTO drive line on my NH round baler 4 years ago on a Saturday afternoon went to TSC and got a bearing put it in and am still using the baler.
 
For the price range you want 70 HP or less I'd be looking for an AC 180 diesel,Oliver 1600,1650,1550.I have a David Brown 990 also a good dependable tractor.Not easy to find parts for but
my Oliver 1465 has been a real good tractor as have the 2 Oliver 1365 tractors both easy to find parts.
 
Not an 8000 fan but if the right one can be bought for around 3,000 dollars it would do everything that the OP wanted to do. The trouble is good 8000's are very hard to
find. 5000 you have to compare very carefully. The 3,000-3,500 dollar 5000 tractors often lack features such as Dual Power, remote hydraulics, and dual speed PTO that
will be there on an Oliver 1850 for example. A mediocre 5000 will be out there for 4,750 that will have all those features and not have an obvious problem while that 4,750
will buy a pretty good 1850. 3,500 dollars will buy a pretty good Case 930 and they are out there.
 
rrlund I had to laugh at yourself to because I?ve replaced every line on a John Deere with generic parts right from the local fix it again tony and never seen one that any decent hydraulic shop including Napa or anyone that makes hoses didn?t have .
 
Every dealer has at least one customer like you that would cuss if they were hung with a new rope!
 
I suppose price point has a larger variance area by area than I imagined because you couldn't find ANY decent 70HP tractor around here for the upper end of that price range. You can buy someone's abused/neglected future scrap pile but not anything worth spending money on.

Not sure what 3020s go for up your way but that would fit your bill.
 
(quoted from post at 17:21:35 02/19/19) I had to laugh to myself yesterday when I blew that power steering hose on my Fiat/Oliver and it had BPT fittings,but they were able to make one and I was going again in a few hours.


From decades of experience with Deere,let me tell you how it would have gone if that had happened to one of those. The fittings would have been some special "Deere only" and nobody would have been able to make a hose. I would have driven an 80 mile round trip to Deeremart. They would have told me they couldn't make it either,they'd have to order one already made. I would have gone back today to get it and it would have been the wrong one. They would have ordered another one and if I was lucky it would be here tomorrow. So there would have been a third 80 mile trip. The tractor would have been down for three days,I'd have driven 240 miles and the real kick in the head,the hose would have cost me $225. BTDT too many times.


As hard as you condemn "Deeremart" I must ask what did you do to help create your problem with the local Deere dealer? Lets be honest, it takes two to create the problem.

I can go to my local Deere dealer and they bend over backwards for me. I can also stand there and watch the hair on their neck raise when certain customers walk in.

By all means, its not just the dealers fault. There are customers who create a lot of there own problems and then blame it on someone else.

I'm not implying this is what you did, but my feeling is that you did not help the situation out and only created more tension.
And by all means, I'm not saying that my dealer is perfect and I'm not saying that I am perfect either.
 
I agree and by his attitude on here I won?t do
anything to help him either . I?ve dealt worth Agco
they are ok but slow and don?t stock anything cnh
doesn?t stock anything Deere doesn?t stock anything
the difference is Deere can have it 3 days worst
case most next day with freight or Agco or cnh can
have it In a week or ten days with more freight than
Deere on next day parts oh but fix it again tony is
the best thing since a short dress . I?ll guarantee if I
walked into Agco and asked for anything Oliver
they?d crap their drawers right there because they
wouldn?t even no what one was it?s hard enough to
get a hesston part from them let alone an orphan
tractor part last time I needed swather bearings it
took 3 days just for them to find the part numbers
and call back
 
A good 3020 diesel NFE with 1 remote is worth a little over 6,000 dollars which is higher than the stated budget. In this country here AC should not be out of the discussion
for the price but good 190XT's and 200's don't go up for sale everyday. Some guys are suggesting Oliver 1650 or 1655 while both are good tractors the diesels bring over
5,000 dollars if in good condition. Nice would be over 6,000 dollars. IH 756 is good but a nice diesel will be over 5,500 dollars and while a gas would fit his budget the
increased fuel usage will frustrate him in a hurry.
 
That is a good point. A 730 JD is as heavy or heavier than most 70-80 HP tractors, so it should be able to out pull them as-is, just at a slower pace. A 90-100 HP tractor would be enough of an increase in both power and weight for the original poster to notice a significant difference from the 730.
 
I bought a new Deere Hydra Push manure spreader back in 89. That darned thing had all metric shafts and bearings. You didn't just run to town for bearings for that one either.
 
(quoted from post at 20:50:42 02/19/19) A Massey 1100 with a 354 Perkins is superior to an 1850.

Never thought about a Massey. Are these a reliable tractor, or are they prone to problems?
 
I would not count on any dealers having parts in stock for any 50 plus year old tractors anymore. If they do now, they may not tomorrow.

Now a days even grocery stores will ship to your door step. Farm equipment dealers will drop ship from their central warehouses to your door step in the same time it takes to get it to the dealer. The door step shipping isn't free, but if you add up the cost to drive a pickup at $0.50 or more per mile and your time at $15.00 plus per hour, the shipping charge is a bargain.
 
ss55 I have 3 different John Deere dealers and one will deliver parts to my door twice a week the other two come every day . They all stock filters most of the bearings seals and water pumps starters and alternators everything I use Is 50 years old . The harder parts are usually less than 2 days away
 
I could go to the nearest Deere location and get an engine oil filter, transmission oil filter, and seat cushion package this afternoon for the 4010. Last I knew they were stocking 16 inch shares for the F145H plow with HS bottoms. So if I wanted to plow this afternoon I could do so after servicing the equipment. If I went to Case IH this afternoon I could probably get the engine oil filter and transmission filter for a 1066. The seat cushions would have to be ordered. As long as a couple other guys did not have the same idea I probably could get 16 inch shares for a 720 plow. If I wanted to get filters for an 806 they would have to be ordered. Not saying that the Case IH dealer is terrible horrible awful but the emphasis is on the more modern customers who are running Magnums, Krause tillage, and Claas choppers. 1960's and even 1970's IHC only equipment is just not a big part of their parts business anymore.
 
(quoted from post at 20:52:48 02/19/19) I bought a new Deere Hydra Push manure spreader back in 89. That darned thing had all metric shafts and bearings. You didn't just run to town for bearings for that one either.

And I don't suppose AGCO does not use metric?
You should of bought an Oliver spreader in 1989, then again they have been out of business for a decade. You could of bough a 40 or 50 year old Oliver spreader and not worried about a metric bearing.

I bet your vehicles are metric.

You may not like the metric system, but much like John Deere it is here to stay unlike Oliver.
 
As per your later question on Massey They are a very good tractor. Some models better than others. But I find them to be on the high price end like Deere. Some areas they may not be as available as others.
 
Most anything of that era will be good unless you get a rare or foreign built machine that the company has changed hands fifty times or doesn?t exist anymore. International case Oliver Allis chalmers Deere Massey white they are a good machine of that day
 
I'll once again make the pitch to buy a diesel even if he has to go over his budget. Those hundred hours per year will add several hundred dollars to the operation cost. Take that out 5 years he could spend 3,500-4,000 dollars EXTRA on fuel that if he combined that money with his original budget he could look at a 4020 diesel, 4230 ROPS, IH 966, White 2-85, etc.. Myself for what would be a main tractor I would get the diesel and not have to fool with carbs and distributors. Buy any tractor of any age and you will have to spend money to maintain it over time.
 
And my 1965 4020 D power shift sits here wishing to be put to work! Put maybe 10 hours a year on it. I'd like to replace it with another Magnum.
 

In addition to all the good suggestions you have received, I would also suggest a Minneapolis Moline M670 (74 HP) or a Minneapolis Moline G900 (97 HP). Either of those will be in your budget. They are simple, reliable, and parts are readily available from about any AGCO dealer or several suppliers specializing in them. You night even find a later G950, or G955 in the upper end of your price range. The G955 combined the best of MM and Oliver.
 
The first combine I bought was a MF 760. The only common part on that was some roller chain. Everything else had to come from MF and later AGCO. I took a lot of heat from a lot of people for buying my JD 6620 combine but it was what I had to do. Not only for parts access as I worked off of the farm the first several years I had it but because the 760 was wore out. Also, we were increasing soybean acreage and the MF lacked an appropriate head for that. Further, it did not have flotation tires nor a mud hog. Anyways, the JD parts warehouse was down to Syracuse and while it was there there was only one time I had to drive to the warehouse because the dealer did not have the part and I could not wait.
 
Darn it, Bob. I'd love to have that 4020 but it looks like another year of poverty for me. It would probably be handier to pick stones between the rows than the 4250.
 
That's the way things used to be. There was a warehouse in Lansing back in the day. I went there to pick up parts and brought things back for the local dealer a few times.
 
I guess running the flag up and down the pole gives you guys something to do while you wait three or four days for parts. LOL


I've got an AGCO New Idea spreader now. Ya,they're still a thing.
 
We don't have a "local Deere dealer". We used to have four of them. When all of them closed,and the last one to have somebody's name on the door was taken over by the chain,everything went straight down the toilet with their personnel. All I did was walked in the door and was treated like a red headed step child from day one. I felt like they were coming right out and saying "stand back,we have our own customers,we'll get to you when we're finished with them.". The last straw was when one of them got in my face about ordering some parts when I had the book right in my hand to show him what I wanted. He got on his soap box preaching to me about the price as if he thought I couldn't afford it,and how there were only three of them left in the country and he didn't know what I was going to do if I ever needed another one.


When somebody walked up behind him and asked if he had called somebody back and he said "NO,I HAVE TO GET 'HIM' OUT OF HERE FIRST!",that was THE END. It wasn't just me. I'd stood there other times and watched him talk to others that way. I watched him on the phone one time giving somebody the devil and telling him "I don't know what you're talking about,you'll have to come in!",then he hung up on the guy. That stuff is BS. Nobody should still be employed when they talk to customers like that,but they just kept turning a blind eye to the guy year after year.


With all the dealer closures and consolidations of all brands,I've had to start doing business with places I never had before,and with the exception of one AGCO dealer that I didn't go back to either,I've never been talked to or treated like that anywhere else before. A good share of the counter guys,not all,but the ones who aren't busy with other customers every time I walk in the door at any of the Deeremart locations,aren't very much better. I gave them ten years to get to know me and start treating me like a human being,that was long enough.
 
I will 2nd the MM670. Had a MM670 super LP FIL purchased new. I bought it from him after 10
yrs and ran it 10 more. NO major repairs required. It was good reliable power.
 
I don't know those tractor but to find a 70+ tractor before 1970 leaves you very little choice You will not find that size pre 1960 so you are talking a ten year span. So Deere only had 3 models of the 70 or above in that time frame with the 3020 just being borderline ot the 70 and the 4010 or 4020. Other makes verry simular in that is bigger than anything mostly before 1960. I think the very late Ford 5000 just made the 70 and I don't know if the 7000 was made in that 10 year span or not. Check tractor data to see the Nebraska test and find every one that fits in your horsepower range and then check serial numbers to see if before or after your cutoff date of 1970. Once you narrow down all the tractors made pre 1970 in your horsepower range you will not find many. Probably have to jump uo a decade to the 80's to find that size.
 
We farmed with a gas 70 and a late A and pulled just what you listed. Maybe you are just trying to work the ground too deep.
 
I have a question. Would it not be better to find the part online and have it sent to your door. And you dont have to deal with the D--kheads behind the counters. We all no theres no good parts people anymore. I remember when you could go and those guys and actually one girl were awesome about parts knowledge. Now days you can go for a oil filter and they look at you like you got two heads. Cause you can bet your A$$ they want know how many different applications that oil filter will fit.
 
I could,but when you have cattle to feed or hay to put up and call them on a Friday morning,it's tough to have to wait until Monday for a part to get here. I'll get in to that too if you want to read it. I called the location where Mr Personality works and ordered something one time and wanted it drop shipped. It wasn't him that I was talking to,but the guy I was talking to said he couldn't guarantee I'd have it the next day via UPS if it was drop shipped. I asked why not? He said "Because you're north of M57.". That's true,I'm two miles north. It doesn't make a lick of difference. Everything comes out of Grand Rapids. They don't pile the packages along the road and say "I'll go north of 57 tomorrow".

When you add to that,the fact that without exception,EVERY TIME I had either location order something,it was wrong the first time and had to be reordered. I tried setting up an account so I could look things up and order them myself to cut out the middle man. I needed a part for my 700 grinder mixer in a desperate way. I ordered it online from them,thinking great,it'll be here tomorrow and it'll be right. Instead,the parts manager called me the next morning to confirm the order and it still took two days. It was the only time I got the right part,but,it took two days.

When you try to order parts from those guys,they pull up the first thing on the computer that looks like it,then don't check serial number splits. JDMaris told me about the difference in sleeves in a tractor one time. Told me to be sure to take the engine serial number. I did better than that. I took the engine serial number,tractor serial number and one of the sleeves. I told the counter guy the difference and gave him the serial numbers. I paid for drop shipping. When it came the next day,it was wrong.


I needed a clutch for the 1020. I called,nope don't have it,it'll be here in the morning. I called in the morning,talked to the guy I ordered it from,yup,it's here. I drove all the way over there to get it,it wasn't there. Parts manager said it wasn't even available from Deere anymore. They could get it from A&I if I wanted them to,but it might take a week. I told them to forget it,I was selling the tractor and buying something I could get parts for. I told them I could wait a week for parts every time it broke down. I was serious,it's gone.

In contrast,I needed a throw out bearing for my Fiat/Oliver. There were three choices and I wanted to make sure I got the right one the first time. I crossed the number stamped on the bearing to what I thought was the AGCO number. I called the AGCO dealer,Tom said that number wasn't coming up as an AGCO number but he'd call tech support and call me right back. He did. He said it was the right number,we just had to add a letter to the front of it,it'll be at your house tomorrow. It was. Why would I ever go back to Deere for any reason?
 
I think you could set a Super 90 MF D on 70 HP and it would run from now on for what it sound's like you want it for. gm
 
(quoted from post at 04:23:36 02/20/19) We farmed with a gas 70 and a late A and pulled just what you listed. Maybe you are just trying to work the ground too deep.

My ground is all hard-pan clay like soil. When I plow I set it for 6 inches depth . any deeper and I hit pure hard pan. My JD 730 will pull the plow but only in the slight down slope direction. The same with the 12 foot disk.

Now maybe because I have no liquido in the rears , could that be the problem? I do have three cast iron weights on each each wheel though.
 

That is what I use to plow and disk currently, but it just doesn't have the power on the slight upslope.
 
If that's the case, you need a new dealer. Unless things have changed since last Fall. Last I went to the dealer, I picked up oil and filters for a 856 (along with a turbo filter), 656 hydro, 656 gear drive, 666 gear drive (also valve cover gasket) and an H. All from off the shelf. Walked out with all of it. Very rare anything I need has to be ordered.
 
Are you running out of HP or traction or both? If HP is the problem, a 3 X 16 plow might be a better match to your 730. You probably could pull 3X16 anywhere in without downshifting, and actually get more done in a day than with 4X14. Duals will help for traction with the disk. What speeds (MPH)are you running at, 4 MPH with the plow and 5 MPH with the disk?
 
Less than 10 years ago I bought a Hay King brand Pasture Renovator......pull them up on the www. I hit my field with that before I do anything else and I
bury it to where the coulter is cutting a couple of inches of sod.....10" give or take depending on how you have your 3rd member (upper link) set.

As with other implements, number of shanks is HP dependent.....I run 4 on a 6' plowing pattern with 65 hp without a problem and the clay doesn't have
to be pre worked. For really bad pan I do an X. Really makes a difference in results with any steel you put in the ground afterwards. Totally changed my
implement selection and usage........got a row of seldom used if ever any more "land art". Mine was new from the local JD dealer for 1500 bucks.
 

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