What story's written in this motor?

RedMF40

Well-known Member
Finally got the head past the stubborn stud on my 9N project. Shoulda been doing other work this eve but got too close to the tractor and it drew me in like a bug to a streetlight in august.

About a half-hour later this is what I found. Unedited, didn't try to pretty it up, this is exactly how the motor looked when I pulled the head.

Question: shouldn't at least one piston be at TDC at any given moment?

mvphoto31691.jpg


mvphoto31692.jpg
 
Houston We have a problem!!!
answer to your question is No . pistons 1 and 4 will always be in the same position. and 2 and 3 will always be in the same position. piston 4 is the running mate to piston 1. piston 3 is the running mate to piston 2. all depend where the crankshaft stopped. very seldom see pistons at TDC stopped.
 
Was it in a flood? Were they not running anti-freeze in the water? It sure looks like water got in there and stood on top of the 2 pistons
to the right. It sure looks like its stuck, or pretty close. You may find a crack in the block as well.

its hard to tell, is the head gasket still on it?

At this point, if you want it apart, start soaking it with your favorite penetrating oil compound. Olive oil, ATF, ATF and diesel mixed 1/2
and half, or whatever you choose.
 
HELLO RedMF40,


NO, but they do go up and down in pairs(companion cylinders). In your case, 1-4 and 2-3. Picture is not clear, but # 4 looks like is MIA?

Guido.
 
None need to be at top dead center. Personally, I think you will have
more trouble with the valves and seats then you will with the pistons.
 
Thanks for the tutorial on 4-stroke engines. At one time I knew this, but then haven’t been inside a motor for a good many years and now the reality is that I’ve forgotten the basic workings of the internal combustion engine. I appreciate the refresher course.

This tractor is something of an odd duck: I bought it at auction, knowing the motor was stuck. But the crankcase oil looked very clean, almost new. Also had a full tank of fresh gas. Seemed to me it had been a working tractor not so long ago. Why the stuck motor? I wanted to find out, and possibly get a running machine out of the deal, but I’ve let it sit outside—with the head partially loosened—and that is probably how the water and antifreeze got in there. So I didn’t do the tractor any favors. Lesson learned. All pistons are intact, and the tops don’t look too terrible bad. All seem to have uniform color and no signs of being bashed in or other trauma.

Now that I’ve freed up some space in my shop, I can work on it in there. I’ve put some ATF in all cylinders, and on top of the valves as well. Never dealt with a stuck motor before, so it’s a learning experience. Broken motors, yes—but not stuck.

As always, thanks for the advice and help on this forum—sure makes things go a lot easier.

Gary in Maryland
 
Well you can drop that one off at Yinglings and head to the Marion PA auction tomorrow they have a good looking Oliver 1600 in the sale.I'm going to call Jerald today and maybe put
a bid in on it doubt I'll get it though.Never know that's what I did on my Oliver 1365 4WD and got it for less than I thought it'd bring.
 

I don't know that sale--do you have a link? The 9N has almost brand-new rubber on the rear, same size tires as my Massey. Worth more than what I paid for the tractor, so I'll do all right (yeah, I'll keep telling myself that LOL)
 
Hello RedMF40,

It takes 360? to fire 1/2 the cylinders on a four stroke
engine. The next 1/2 will fire on the same degree of
crankshaft rotation. You then have TWO points where
compression happens. So the engine stopped when it bumps
again compression, in your case, two places more or less,

Guido.
 
(reply to post at 14:37:01 02/20/19)
Guido--Thanks, I'm hoping to see that in action if I get this motor freed up. Wanted to believe that maybe it froze up from sitting but it's possible the engine gave out while running--a different set of problems. I have pretty minimal expectations with all this, but want to at least see some movement in the motor. I appreciate the explanation.

Gary
 
That block is repairable from what I see.Sleves can be replaced and if dammaged between sleeve and block rebore for 90 over instead of the 45 thin sleve as orignal and use sleve from later 8N, valve seats can be replaced so unless it is internal cracked that cannot be seen untill it is boiled out that block will be usuable.
 
(quoted from post at 06:39:36 02/21/19) That block is repairable from what I see.

Leroy, I agree. Photo looks bad but motor actually looks better in person. Rust is fairly recent. Still don't know why it froze up in the first place. When I have some time I'll drop the pan, take a look underneath.
 

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