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Portable Generator - Calculating Load

B

BigPapa53

Member
So, I finally bought me a portable gasoline generator, 7K peak, 6K running. I’m trying to figure out just what I can run on it as far as my furnace fan, tankless gas water heater, fridge, etc. My thinking is to kill everything in the house and put an amp clamp on the cable between the house and the generator, then turn one thing on and see how many amps that item pulls. Using the formula “Volts X Amps = Watts” I should be able to make me a list of what I can run at the same time without overloading the generator.

Am I thinking right? I’m not trying to run the whole house, it’s not enough generator for that.

Thanks.

-Scott
 
6K running would usually not be enough to run an entire house. It could be if everything is ran on propane/natural gas but even then it does not take much to get to 6000 watts. I have 30K on my house and that is with propane heat. It covers it if the water heater, dryer and cook stove are running with all the normal lights. I like to be less than 75% of maximum load for piece of mind.
 
That would be the quick way to do it. Just remember starting amps should only last a few seconds. I wouldn't try to use anything heavy
while running. Just what you have to have.
 
My opinion. You have just barely enough. Don't get mad....todays homes are
power hogs. Turn everything off, turn the well on first. Bet that generator
bogs down a little. If your house is all electric like range top waterheater
etc. you don't have enough. Also if you have a high efficiency heater with
natural gas the power must not bog down or drift frequency cause it can blow
the control board. Not telling you to panic it is just you need to turn on only
what you need and no more. Fridge, heater controls, water pump and that is
about it. Equipment from even twenty years ago was very forgiving. Not so much
todays stuff. My next door neighbor does HVAC. After a major power outage and
people run a generator and have no idea and turn everything on at one time. The
next several days he is running around changing power boards at several hundred
$$$$$ a pop. Get a digital meter that measures frequency . You need to check
your generators output and keep it there. You want as close to 60 cycles as
possible. Also you want to run your generator on Hi-test gas. Beleave me on
this. Let us see what others say about what you need. Most people I know that
have recently purchased a generator went for a 9000 watt unit. Duel fuel is
really a good idea cause you can run it on gasoline and you can keep several
20lb. Propane tanks in the back shed. One of those tanks is good for about 8
hours.
 
Here's a chart that gives you a roughly what some of the things in house you use. I have an 8,000 watt generator and figured out what we needed to get by and put in a transfer switch that all I have to do is hook generator up and throw switches on transfer box.
cvphoto10754.gif


cvphoto10755.jpg
 
I just got thru getting the switch put in for a generator at my mom's house,13000 surge 11,000 run after figuring things up no way I'd put the heat pump on the generator which is fine
since she has a wood stove and wood I keep there.Also I didn't hook in the hot water heater problem is overloads can happen when everything comes on at once.6,000 is for a fridge,freezer,microwave and lights in my opinion.I run two 5,000 units at my house to keep freezers, refrigerators,lights going.
 
Your 7K/6K generator is probably adequate for your whole house IF your range and dryer are gas (in addition to the aforementioned water heater and furnace). We run everything in our house except the electric ovens on our 6500 watt Honda. If you have an electric range or oven, I'd just forget about running it on the generator; the generator might be able to handle the range/oven alone, but there would be nothing left to power the rest of the house. I'd leave the electric clothes dryer off, too, although it doesn't draw as much as a range.

Once you eliminate those four big appliances, the major concern is having enough juice to handle the starting load when you first turn on the generator. Refrigerator, freezer, air conditioner and well pump may all come on at once and if the voltage drops enough they're not going to run. The remaining loads probably aren't that big. We have two refrigerators, a freezer, a 3/4 hp pump and a 22K Btu/hr air conditioner; our Honda has no problem starting all of them together. If you have a big central A/C, then it's going to be the big draw. You need to look at the starting current for these items; it will be much higher than the running current.
 
Probably not enough to run Tankless water heater.Ours has 2-60 amp breakers feeding it. If you can read on the tag it will give you an idea.
 
instead of just shutting your generator down when you are through running if it runs on gas then turn the gas off and allow the generator to run all the
gas out of the carb. this will keep the carb from gumming up from the gas in it. just remember to turn the gas back on before cranking next time.
 
Thanks for the advice fellows.

In the past couple of months our power has been out three times. Once was almost 10 hours, another time right at four, and then another time for about 2 1/2. Our power outages are primarily in the winter from ice, no hurricanes here in TN. I’m just looking at running necessities like heat, hot water, refrigerator, a few lights, cell phone chargers, and maybe a TV, and not all of that at the same time. The two biggest users, fridge and furnace fan, can be alternated, heat on for 3 hours, fridge on for one. The Rennai water heater probably uses less power than my coffee maker. iI don’t have a well or sump pump and we can do without the stove, washer, and drier for a day.

I’m confident that if I use a bit of common sense I won’t have any problem doing what I need with the 7K/6K generator. If we can stay warm, take a shower, and keep a couple of teenagers entertained for a max of maybe 24 hours I’ll be happy.

-Scott
 
You haven't said if you intend to install a transfer switch. (You should.) They come in a couple of flavors: Some switch individual circuits, while others switch the entire house. Big box stores typically sell the former type, but I prefer the latter.

I like the <a href="http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Products.aspx?pg=search&q=twb">Reliance Controls TWB series</a> (endorsed by Mr. B&D). Assuming you currently have a separate main disconnect switch at your meter, you just replace the existing disconnect switch with the transfer switch. Simple. You have to buy the <a href="http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Products.aspx?pg=search&q=pk">socket for the generator cord</a> separately, as it doesn't come with one.
 
Based on your comments with common sense, load management and avoiding multiple big power loads a 6/7 KW Generator may well (subject to actual loads) suffice.

Now you have to consider features such as automatic generator exercise cycling,,,Automatic or Manual transfer and connection methods,,,,Type of fuel,,,etc etc. Subject to your transfer switch system and method you may or may not switch the Neutral and there's always the proper Neutral/Ground bonding procedures, Generator Neutral floating or bonded etc. etc.

John T
 
I have a 3,500 Watt, max 4,000 and I have ran it continues for a week or more at a time. It is only 110 and I ran an extension cord from the old chicken house were it sat to house thru a window. Far enough away fumes were not an issue. Would not run water pump so would not be trying to use washer or dishwasher, the furnace is gas but need electric to operate but it is hardwired so could not plug it to generator but I do have backup LP heat that does not need power to operate. It ran the 2 refrigerators, freezer, all plug in lights we wanted, the TV and computor at same time with no problem. Gas cook stove using only enough to lite a burner or the clock-timer. I kept dozens of old milk jugs for washing water and orange juice-lemonade jugs for drinking water on hand. Used them as if not entirely cleaned nothing to be in there that would spoil and make you sick, if there was something from the milk not being completely cleaned out it made no difference to the toilet. I am thinking you should be able to run everythingyou mentioned without problems except that water heater I know nothing about and if it only requires electric for controls you should be good with everything. You did not mention an electric cook stove so that should not be a problem there and doughtfull if in time you would be out of power you would need to run washer or dryer so just not turn them on. No ned to unhook, just do not try to use. Nothing about a well here so that could be a contribting factor but you should be able to run everything needed to keep house going without thinking about unhooking anything. You are not saying anything about outbuildings or livestalk so assume you don't have that to be figured in like some others that are saying 30,000 is not big enough.
 

Should have calculated the load then bought a generator .
What is there for a transfer switching system ?
Gas stove , gas water heater and gas furnace ? Is there a well pump or sump pumps ?
Stay away from watts and just add up the amps . May have to swap loads in the breaker panel . Could have 5 amps of essential loads on one leg and 25amps of essential loads on the other leg.
A consumer grade generator should not be operated continuously about 80% current on either line.
 

Here is what you were looking for .https://www.championpowerequipment.com/product/100110-9200-watt-generator/

40 amp https://www.homedepot.com/p/GenerLink-40-Amp-Meter-Mounted-Transfer-Switch-with-75kA-Per-Phase-Surge-Protection-MA24-S/301962200
 
Sounds like a good plan! We had a 31 hour outage a couple of years ago and got by with a Coleman 2500. I could run the fridge and freezer
at the same time, the only thing that really pulled it down was the sewer lift pump, and I ran it alone. I couldn't run the well pump as
it's 240, but we have a lake full of water. The well is artesian so it will provide 1 gpm without the pump.
 
My well is biggest load. So I made a box that turns power off the all loads except well. When well turns off power is applied to appliances. 5 minutes later power is applied to refrigeration. Only have 3500 w RV Champion. 110v. I use extension cords. One goes to basement through garage. Other tee goes through kitchen window and stays on counters. So no cords to trip over.

Rarely is power off for more than 12 hours.
 
The Reliance transfer switch I used came as a kit. The only thing I had to buy extra was the wire from that socket for generator to to transfer switch box.I got mine from an electrical supplier not a box store. It came with all the directions on how to instal .
 
Fellows, as I said, I appreciate the help, but some of y’all are killing me.

My question was how to calculate what the load is on the individual things in my house so I would know what I could safely run at the same time. I did calculate before I bought and I would love to have bought a 15K-20K stand-by generator hardwired to the house with the transfer switch and auto start but the funds aren’t there. I found a Champion 41311 7K peak/6K running watts that has 13 hours on it for $350 that is like new, so that’s what I have. I’m going to use it for [i:02b311ed72]EMERGENCY[/i:02b311ed72], [i:02b311ed72]SHORT[/i:02b311ed72] [i:02b311ed72]TERM[/i:02b311ed72] power outages to run [i:02b311ed72]NECESSITIES[/i:02b311ed72].

The heaviest users are the furnace fan and a refrigerator. These will [i:02b311ed72]NOT[/i:02b311ed72] be run at the same time. Next would be a coffee maker, a 40” LCD flat screen, and a microwave, again, not at the same time. The rest is light weight stuff like the [i:02b311ed72]GAS[/i:02b311ed72] tankless water heater, some lights, some cell phone chargers, a laptop, etc. I won’t be having a problem doing this with the generator I bought.

-Scott
 
(quoted from post at 09:41:18 01/25/19) Fellows, as I said, I appreciate the help, but some of y’all are killing me.

My question was how to calculate what the load is on the individual things in my house so I would know what I could safely run at the same time. I did calculate before I bought and I would love to have bought a 15K-20K stand-by generator hardwired to the house with the transfer switch and auto start but the funds aren’t there. I found a Champion 41311 7K peak/6K running watts that has 13 hours on it for $350 that is like new, so that’s what I have. I’m going to use it for [i:35e00e6a29]EMERGENCY[/i:35e00e6a29], [i:35e00e6a29]SHORT[/i:35e00e6a29] [i:35e00e6a29]TERM[/i:35e00e6a29] power outages to run [i:35e00e6a29]NECESSITIES[/i:35e00e6a29].

The heaviest users are the furnace fan and a refrigerator. These will [i:35e00e6a29]NOT[/i:35e00e6a29] be run at the same time. Next would be a coffee maker, a 40” LCD flat screen, and a microwave, again, not at the same time. The rest is light weight stuff like the [i:35e00e6a29]GAS[/i:35e00e6a29] tankless water heater, some lights, some cell phone chargers, a laptop, etc. I won’t be having a problem doing this with the generator I bought.

-Scott
Click to expand...

Big papa, you did not give the most important information. How many teenaged daughters do you have? My generator is a 6700/8500. I have had it for ten years and it has run everything in this house no problem, so I think that yours probably would too. Here is how: First, DO NOT PUT IN A TRANSFER PANEL!!! After your first outage of any length of time you will be calling the electrician back to have him install another one for the other stuff you need. Get a simple slide switch transfer that installs at the top of your breaker panel. Then just use a little common sense. Every time that we have an outage of a few days my wife will ask " I can't run the drier can I?" I tell her go ahead and I go and shut the breaker for the well pump off. As B&amp;D said your gas units, contrary to what others have said, will draw very little current. So just go ahead and hook it up with the slide switch and use your head. I can see from your last post that you are capable of doing so.
 
> Get a simple slide switch transfer that installs at the top of your breaker panel

Showcrop, do you mean one of these?

<a href="http://www.interlockkit.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1820">http://www.interlockkit.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1820</a>

Those do work, IF you have a panel that will take them and IF you have a couple of spare spaces in the panel for the generator circuit breaker. But at 150 bucks, they're a third to half the cost of a proper transfer switch.
 
The best way I have found over the years. Since you have an amprobe. Hook it around your generator lead. Turn off everything in the
house. Then turn on what you would like to have one item at a time. Write down your numbers.If what you would like to have is too
much. Start turning off what you don't really need until you reach a safe number. You will then have an idea of what you need to turn
off to run another item.And what not to turn on.

You could take an amp reading from each label to get an idea. But with age some items will pull more some pull less. The way I do it.
You can simulate a power failure and get a true idea of what you need.
 
We have had a 5500 watt running generator and use it to run the wood boiler, refrigerator, two freezers and the well pump during outages, all at the same time. The voltage
will drop when one of the motors starts, but not for more than a few seconds. We don't have a dryer and don't use power tools or the microwave or plug in computers on the
generator. I think you'll be fine with the load you have and the size of generator you bought.
Zach
 
(quoted from post at 11:33:53 01/25/19) &gt; Get a simple slide switch transfer that installs at the top of your breaker panel

Showcrop, do you mean one of these?

&lt;a href="http://www.interlockkit.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1820"&gt;http://www.interlockkit.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1820&lt;/a&gt;

Those do work, IF you have a panel that will take them and IF you have a couple of spare spaces in the panel for the generator circuit breaker. But at 150 bucks, they're a third to half the cost of a proper transfer switch.
Click to expand...

MarkB it looks like they have all of the brands covered. I had to make room for it because I have a small panel. I have the use of ALL of my circuits.
 
(quoted from post at 13:46:19 01/25/19) The best way I have found over the years. Since you have an amprobe. Hook it around your generator lead. Turn off everything in the
house. Then turn on what you would like to have one item at a time. Write down your numbers.If what you would like to have is too
much. Start turning off what you don't really need until you reach a safe number. You will then have an idea of what you need to turn
off to run another item.And what not to turn on.

You could take an amp reading from each label to get an idea. But with age some items will pull more some pull less. The way I do it.
You can simulate a power failure and get a true idea of what you need.
Click to expand...

Thank you Billy. That’s exactly what I’d described.

-Scott
 
> I have the use of ALL of my circuits.

So do I. And I didn't have to use up two slots in my panel for the generator breaker. In fact, I GAINED four slots because my Reliance TWB1503DR includes four slots in addition to whatever is in the existing panel. I now have a 20 amp outlet right at my meter, which is very handy.
Reliance TWB1503DR
 
> I would love to have bought a 15K-20K stand-by generator hardwired to the house with the transfer switch and auto start but the funds aren't there.

BP, nobody is saying you should install a hard-wired standby generator. What folks are saying is you need a transfer switch for your PORTABLE generator, both for convenience and safety. If you plan to run extension cords all over the house, I can assure you that gets old real quick. Yes, a good transfer switch will cost nearly as much as you paid for your generator, but it's a purchase you'll never regret.
 
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