jd 2010 for a $1000.00

craiglist in houston . can you put a backhoe on??

Better go look, the PTO was optional on that tractor.

Probably junk or a scam for that price, not that a 2010 is worth big money its just that people ask
big prices on craigslist.

I have had several 2010 JD tractors. They usually had both pto's, 540 and 1000. But a good one ain't worth much more than $1000.

Drove my Uncles tractor and very uncomfortable tractor to drive. Row crop utility most popular model and steering wheel was too close to all the dash controls you were hitting something all the time with your hands. Now the full row crop was different and you had clearance to get to the controls. Gas engine same as in the Hi-Lo 45 combine and a good engine except would be very hard to get parts to overhaul and expencive now. Personally I would stay away from one. Lots better tractors out there.

(quoted from post at 09:33:52 01/01/19) craiglist in houston . can you put a backhoe on??

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Which specific model of 2010?

Tractor Data shows a row crop, a utility, a crawler, and an industrial. Loader was an accessory for the
industrial but no mention of a backhoe.

The later model industrial tractors had back hoes available, like the industrial version of the 2020,
2030, 2040, etc.

The 1010 and 2010 where two of the worst tractor JD ever built and many parts if you can find them are very high. I'd NEVER buy either of those models ever again

I second the motion, Old. That gear shift lash-up on the dash was a disaster, and the rest of the tractor wasn't much better.

If a guy intended to use the tractor, he'd be better off getting scammed than getting that tractor.

I have a 2010 utility with a loader and I've found the 2010 is like any other vintage tractor. Condition and maintenance are basically everything. An old, abused, worn out, high hour tractor of 1960s vintage is going to be a nightmare almost regardless of the number painted on the side. A lower hour, a well-maintained tractor that spent the last 20 years of its life as a shedded acerage tractor for a rural homeowner to use to plow the driveway is going to be a better bet regardless.

What are the parts that people keep talking about for the 2010 that are expensive and hard to get?

Everything I've needed for my 2010 has been a click of the mouse and it shows up with the UPS guy. The sway blocks and brackets for my tractor had been misplaced by the previous owner. Yes, buying Deere original OEMs would have been difficult/expensive, but who would do that anyway? Within a week of when I started looking, I found a part-out seller on eBay and I paid $75 for the sway blocks and brackets INCLUDING shipping.

Honestly, I'd like to know what these expensive, hard to find parts ARE so I can watch for them and maybe score some in case I need them.

So far everything I've looked for has been a part that was common across many Deere tractors so it's all been easy to find. Sway blocks, gas gauge, hood badge, spark plugs, plug wires, etc.

The WORST thing has been tires. Front tires were the obsolete 14 inch rims. I had to bite the bullet on that and just buy economy new 15 inch rims and then the tires were half the price of 14 inchers. $200 out the door, 2 rims, 2 tires, mounted.

It took me 2 years, but I found a 90% used rear tire for $200. Again, that's a problem that anyone who has 36 inchers on the rear is going to have, nothing to do with Deere or the 2010.

Yes, if the opportunity had been there to buy say a 3010 or 20 when I needed it, I'd have done so! Problem being there was NO other option within reasonable haulage distance when I needed a loader tractor, so I took a chance on the 2010.

I paid $4500 for my 65 2010 with loader. So far, I've spent $700 on tires, and about $130 on other misc parts. That's kept me running for 4 years now. How bad can a decent 2010 really be? I can't make payments on any kind of newer machine for the roughly $1400 per usage year the ol 2010 has cost me so far. If she lasts me just 2 more years without large scale repairs, I'll be below $950 per year of use.

Grouse

The serious parts are for the engine. That cylinder deck, [ all 4 sleeves are attached to a plate, ] is expensive and last I checked unavailable from anyone but Deere. You have to have 2 head gaskets, I checked on them once and they were $300. I ran a 2010 tricycle for years with 2 row cultivator in tobacco, much better that most anything anyone else used here to cultivate. But that engine design was terrible.

The local JD dealer told me they were the worst tractor JD ever built. They dont bring anything at farm
sales. He ranked them as bad as or worse than the the 2-8-8N fords.

John Deere offers oversized pistons for the 2010 so you shouldn?t need to replace the deck sleeve assembly anyway as far as the two head gaskets it?s one gasket and 4 seals total cost 110$ . Seems pretty good for a tractor that?s over 50 years old if you think that?s bad go buy one of the Oliver?s a couple posts above they couldn?t even get parts for them when they were new and there?s lots of off breed brand x tractors a lot newer than 50 years old you can?t even get parts for

. Way over priced at $1000.00

. Engine on 45 combine was the same but different . Iirc the 45 combine used an investment vast block instead of a sleeve block.
A gasser Dubuque investment block engine was an entirely decent engine .

Most of the people claiming the 1010/2010 are so awful have never operated one, much less owned one or rebuilt one. They really aren't that bad. The sleeve deck is a weird design, yeah, but it's not a big deal. I'd take a gas 1010/2010 any day over any N series Ford and a lot of other gas tractors in the same power range.

. Had 1010’s are fine . It is the diesels and the 2010 chassis that are substandard

Had a 2010. Would never own another. Under powered, hydraulic system was a cluster f*****

Call around and see about that sleeve deck. You have a gasket above and below the deck. When you bore one you still have to buy pistons which ain't cheap, and if you buy one that is stuck at all tight, you can't hardly get them unstuck without breaking a sleeve from the deck. I sure like them better than a 600 Ford or an IH with a 2 pt. hitch, but they had lots of issues. That hydraulic screen is expensive, although you can wash it a few times. The hydraulic system, as well as shifting, was pretty ill conceived. But my whole point is that if you buy one with any problems it is very easy to spend more on it than it could possibly bring.

Actually some or all of the 45 squareback combines I had anything to do with used the deck sleeve design, although they did use more than one engine design, or so I am told. But the combine engine in gas was 165 cubic inch and the tractor in gas a 145. Claiming to produce nearly 50 hp from that tractor was misleading at best from Deere.

(quoted from post at 05:33:52 01/01/19) craiglist in houston . can you put a backhoe on??

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The one I see is an industrial. Yes, you can put a backhoe on it.. Should have 2 hyd ports just behind and to the right of the seat brace frame. Not sure about the PTO, or if needed for a backhoe.

Agree with the statements on the shifter. It is a poor design, and needs to be maintained with proper bushings on the shift levers.

I haven't had the engine apart, but if one gets into the engine, the gaskets, and deck seals are the least of the cost involved in a frame overhaul, or out of frame OH.

Not sure about the issues with lack of power, cuz mine had gobs of power for the size of engine. Also, my hyd system works fine, and is kept in good condition.

I don't like the PTO engage setup. It has an over-center engagement that will put strain on the PTO center drive. If the mass of the PTO drive is high, and one is at more than 1000RPM, there is potential for breaking the PTO drive. Yes, there are clutches, but unless they are operated regularly, the clutch plates tend to stick, and do not provide slippage. another poor design. When engaging the PTO, make sure one is at idle, or shut the engine off and engage. Disengaging is no problem.

And those Fords were good tractors, the Deere dealer just did not like them as he was expecting them to do the work of a late A. And they were to compair to the M or 40 in power.

The first 45 combines with an overhead valve engine used a 145 CU of standard block type. That was in the Hi combines. The Hi-Lo 45 did yse the 145 I deck plate block and it was a good engine but expenvive if you had to replace the deck plate and there was no over size pistons for it. Then the first of the Square back used same engine but wit a 165 GU In deck plate that could be put in any of the deck plate engines, the 115" on the 40 or 1010 tractor or the 145" on the Hi-Lo 45 or the 2010 tractor with the 165" engine following, it might have been used in the 2510 I don't know about that. The late Square backs used a different non deck plate 180 Cu In engine that I think is what was used in the 2020 tractor and possibly the 2520 tractor. I did have 3 combines with the deck plate engine, 2 with the 145" version and one with the 165" version. And I did have to replace the deck plate in one of the 145" machines as the previous owner had used it without ang air cleaner connected to the carb. Big problem on the one was they switched to an off make carb that you could not get parts thru Deere for. Had to switch to earlier model of carb. Had these combines over a 30 year span with more than one at a time for most years.

Remember the N series Ford was 1/2 the power-size of a 2010. My problem was the steering wheel sat to close to all the dash controls that I had sore hands after running one for a day, now if it had been the row crop type there is clearance so you are not beating up your hands all day.

If underpowered it needed engine repairs as that was a good engine in gas and the diesel in the one I drove for my uncle he could not destroy that engine no mater how much he tried and a dislike any diesel. Pulled same loads as the 70D did.

(quoted from post at 01:03:17 01/02/19) Remember the N series Ford was 1/2 the power-size of a 2010. My problem was the steering wheel sat to close to all the dash controls that I had sore hands after running one for a day, now if it had been the row crop type there is clearance so you are not beating up your hands all day.

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It isn't the power that turns me off to the N series. What turns me off is that they were cheap tractors with worse ergonomics than the 1010 (unless you had 2 left feet!) with a lousy engine electrical system, poor hydraulics, etc. But Henry got a zillion of them sold (because they were cheap and he offered financing no one else could) and they remain in some sort of icon status, like VW Bugs, another cheap unit with no endearing features.

And yes, thats just my opinion and it sounds an awful lot like the trashing the 1010/2010 get and don't really deserve.