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jon f mn

jon f mn

Well-known Member
Got the heads back from the re-builder and installed on the combine, but they are blue! :( Don't know how Larry will feel about that) lol That's probly why it still don't run right. Had this problem since I got it. Runs good at idle and under no load, but under any load at rated rpm it is too lean and needs full choke and then it starves under load. I've replaced everything now and had the carb rebuilt by someone claiming to know what he was doing. It does run better now with the new heads, but the original problem has not been solved. Any ideas anyone?
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This is a video of it running on full choke. That is the only way it will rev up.
Video running
 
Now I am trying to remember the color of the slant 6 in the old MF 300 combine from over 40 years ago. I want to say it was MF red but now I am not so sure. Long gone anyways.
 
i am going to say its still a carb problem. has the carb actually been soaked in gunk for a few hrs ?
 
Probably the first rattle can on the shelf? Sunny, blue skies in the kingdom? I sure enjoy your posts lately, glad you found your happy "place"! Merry Christmas, Jon.
 
Is the carb a Stromberg WW? Had the same issue with those carbs on some GM 401 V-6 in New Idea Uni power units, only fix was to open up the main jets a bit with number drill. Try that ONLY if the fuel level is right first and fuel supply to the carb is OK keeping it full. Anytime the choke helps means it's too lean on fuel.
 
I agree with Diesletech. Either open up the jets, or find bigger ones. I had the same trouble with an IH 345 in a dump truck. Luckily for me, a neighbor/friend had an assortment of Holley jets from his days of modified tractor pulling!
 
Have you replaced the transfer pump? Maybe hook a fuel supply to it that will gravity feed. Is the line from the tank metal all the way to the transfer pump?
I have seen them run at idle just fine and starve at full rpms because of restrictions in the tank and or rotten rubber suction lines.
 
I do not see a line running to the vacuum advance on the distributor. There is also an adjustment in the vacuum canister to reset the curve(allen wrench into the vacuum port on the canister)
 
Check the timing? My jubilee wasn't making power. Hard to start, thought it was carburator. I replaced points and condenser. Wow what a difference a good spark makes.
 
All new electric fuel pump, lines and filter and plenty of gas in the carb. Fuel feed is not the issue, thought of that right after the first full tune up.
 
My mechanic friend said the same thing. The fuel supply and level is good, I've checked that many times trying to figure out why it acts like this. I'll pull the carb again and take it to my friend to check out.
 
Yeah, I know. Just thought Larry would get a kick out of it. Guess he's busy today tho.
 
Hare to beat those Chrysler 225 slant 6, or a 318 V8 for power in a combine, or windrower.
That is Chrysler blue, not Ford blue.
Sorry Larry and Graqndpa.
Loren
 
Maybe not getting enough gas you might have a restriction somewhere. What kind of fuel pump does this unit have?? mechanical or electric fuel pump?? If mechanical you might have a bad diaphragm.
 
Is the cam and crank in time for sure then are the lifters filling with oil ok? If those are good then check wire connections. If good then move on to leaking intake gaskets. Those cheap tin gaskets never cut any ice with me. Is the head gasket sealing good? Carb gasket sealing? After that ignition timing, points and coil. If you had the distributor out it can be off by half a turn. Usually will not start, just pop and fart if that is the case though. With no body in the way might be just that, and turned enough to run poorly.
Did they mill the head and if so are the valves to tight even though they are hydraulic. Might seem loose when shut off and tight when filled with oil running. After that as somebody else said drop a diesel in it.
 
I replaced the mechanical pump with an electric. If checked fuel flow and level in the carb and adjusted both ways. They as they should be. Wish that were the problem, it would have been solved long ago.
 
I did the either test today, sprayed
the whole top of the engine and got no
response. I don't think I have a leak.
 
If it idles OK the manifold is probably not leaking. My first impression is the fuel isn’t getting into the float bowl fast enough. If you have good flow to the carb, the only culprits are a restricted inlet screen or a float valve not letting the fuel in fast enough. Next suspect is fuel not getting out of the float bowl and into a metering valve fast enough.
 
No water in the bowl under the jets? I have used a tip cleaner to enlarge the jets on all the 1660s here. Check timing...see you had a vacuum line from the dist. to the carb. Shouldn't need that if the dist. is original. Wish I was closer. I always had good luck making the 1660s purr.
 
Those symptom and that cure sound familiar to the 702 Uni we had w/ GMC 6 cyl., but that was 35 years ago and a bit foggy.
 
Do you have a spare carb to try? Otherwise i was thinking manifold leak but would have thought it corrected when replacing the head. Do you have a vacuum guage to check vacuum? Maybe that will give a hint. I have not followed the whole story is this a new to you machine that never ran right?
 
Thoughts;

-Try fresh gas

-Check firing order again

-Test run with governor unhooked, manually increase rpm until just before it wants to die and see it it holds rpm or starts to sputter down (fuel supply)

-Test run with air filter disconnected

-Test run with timing light to see what advance weights are or are not doing

-Test run with dwell meter hooked up

- Test run with volt meter on coil

-Compression test

-Test run with a vacuum gauge on it
 
I had a 318 in an old truck that had that problem after it had set a while, Ended up being that the dist got damp and the advance weights froze up. might put a timing light on it and see what it's doing
 
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