nknebel

New User
I bought this 1456 three years ago as a restoration project. The tractor needed overhauled and needed some rear end work. Every winter we have worked on it to get it fixed up and after each winter we would use the tractor to make sure that we fixed the issue. It was suppose to get painted but I got it out of the shed and when you started to turn the steering wheel it would suck air which causes the steering wheel to catch. I talked to a few good friends who work at area implement dealers about the issue and have done everything they have told me to. I have taken the Multiple Control Valve off and put all new O-rings, Gaskets, and a new pump on it and it still does it. I've had the valve out of the bottom of it and replaced it with a different one that I know works and also have the oil filled an extra gallon. My next option is to take the hand valve off the back of the steering wheel. Before I go and do that I am hoping that someone else can relate to this and tell me what they have done to fix the issue.
 
the Oring between the rear end and transmission is sucking air.Very common problem.That oring is normally above the level of the oil. Common 'repair' is to simply add 5 gal of fluid to transmission to get the oil level above the oring.That should take care of it.And it will NOT harm a thing. remark your dipstick.to repair the oring would require a 3 way(TA split) split.
 
Like everyone said add more . Now i work on I H tractors and have been doing so for over thirty years . When i have had the tractors split for usually a T/A i have always installed that O/Ring an well did it always fix the problem NO plus the fact that if you have never split a large frame I H you would see first hand that really there is no way they will suck air as tight as that gskt seals . Now what you may find is a crack on the pick up tube where the holding bracket is welded to the tube . So to have a look see ya need to pull the rock shaft housing to gain access . But the over fill of five extra gallons will cover the pick up tube as long as the tractor is setting level or with the nose in the air a bit , nose down and the oil level may drop enough that the tube top side is exposed . I am sure that you replaced the MCV pump while you were tryen to fix this . If not stuff a new pump on it and always keep a good filter in it , rule of thumb is change the hyd filter with each engine oil change . Condensation will build during weather and temp changes and the filter will try and clean out the moisture , once it is plugged then the bypass valve opens and in warm weather it will suck on thru and give you milky looking oil , so we all know that it won't get any better till you change out all the hyd fluid and filter , now if you are thinking this is the total cure all , Nope as you still have contaminated oil that did not drain out just by pulling the plugs and letting it dri dry , nope ain't ah going to happen To get it really cleaned up it will take a few more filter changes and the idea of ok i put two filters in i am good to go, Nope may take several more . Then you let the tractor set for and extended time frame and your back to square one . The starting and run for a few min. and not getting everything up to operating temp will not COOK the moisture out it just mixes it back into the oil . If your going to let it set like from fl to late spring you will be amassed at how much condensation build up you will have . I do this with mine when they set , before start up coming out of winter sleep before i park my donkey in the seat i take my breaker bar and the 3/8th and 1/2 inch drain plug sockets down under and crack ALL the drain plugs and let them DRIP . One year when we had fluctuating air temps all winter long with the tractor setting up on the barn floor of a old wooden bank barn i drained about SIX gallon of water out of all the drain plugs . Now how bad would six gallon of water mess up 18 gallons of HY tran and how fast would that plug the filter.
 
(quoted from post at 04:18:02 12/21/18) Like everyone said add more . Now i work on I H tractors and have been doing so for over thirty years . When i have had the tractors split for usually a T/A i have always installed that O/Ring an well did it always fix the problem NO plus the fact that if you have never split a large frame I H you would see first hand that really there is no way they will suck air as tight as that gskt seals . Now what you may find is a crack on the pick up tube where the holding bracket is welded to the tube . So to have a look see ya need to pull the rock shaft housing to gain access . But the over fill of five extra gallons will cover the pick up tube as long as the tractor is setting level or with the nose in the air a bit , nose down and the oil level may drop enough that the tube top side is exposed . I am sure that you replaced the MCV pump while you were tryen to fix this . If not stuff a new pump on it and always keep a good filter in it , rule of thumb is change the hyd filter with each engine oil change . Condensation will build during weather and temp changes and the filter will try and clean out the moisture , once it is plugged then the bypass valve opens and in warm weather it will suck on thru and give you milky looking oil , so we all know that it won't get any better till you change out all the hyd fluid and filter , now if you are thinking this is the total cure all , Nope as you still have contaminated oil that did not drain out just by pulling the plugs and letting it dri dry , nope ain't ah going to happen To get it really cleaned up it will take a few more filter changes and the idea of ok i put two filters in i am good to go, Nope may take several more . Then you let the tractor set for and extended time frame and your back to square one . The starting and run for a few min. and not getting everything up to operating temp will not COOK the moisture out it just mixes it back into the oil . If your going to let it set like from fl to late spring you will be amassed at how much condensation build up you will have . I do this with mine when they set , before start up coming out of winter sleep before i park my donkey in the seat i take my breaker bar and the 3/8th and 1/2 inch drain plug sockets down under and crack ALL the drain plugs and let them DRIP . One year when we had fluctuating air temps all winter long with the tractor setting up on the barn floor of a old wooden bank barn i drained about SIX gallon of water out of all the drain plugs . Now how bad would six gallon of water mess up 18 gallons of HY tran and how fast would that plug the filter.

As usual, very good information.
 

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